Patcon

I wouldn't think a clutch would be toast after 2500 km unless you were doing high rev launches over and over. That's like 1,500 miles even a sorry clutch aught to hold up longer than that. I think you are looking in the right area from the sounds of it.

I agree with Jim, also in the future instead of buying a new driveshaft. We have a local company that rebuilds shafts and balances them. It's a pretty common thing for heavier trucks and racecars. I am sure you have a similar service in your area. Cheaper than a new driveshaft. Like $60 for 2 u joints and a balance

I am no engine expert but I would think you would want zero leakage past the valves. If the intake or exhaust valves leak then you won't reach 9:1 compression or whatever as the build up in pressure will bleed back into the intake or exhaust manifold, whichever is leaking. The need to seal really well which is why valve lapping is sometimes necessary

I am surprised you didn't pull the shifter before removing the engine. It makes it easier to get the chunk out without damaging anything. I love the 6" trench drain. The metal grate is nice too. Looks good

Thanks Site I wonder if I have one of those lying around, I mean I wonder if I can find one of those I have lying around...

No "thread jacking" please...

Looks good. I love new parts. So clean... So shiny...

Site That's pretty glossy. Obviously glossier than the crossmember and dust shield. I will aim for the gloss finish I already have. That will prevent so much rework. Thanks Guys

Thanks Dan

Cliff, Is "gloss", really glossy or sort of glossy?

These parts I have are from a customer who restored 280z's he is older now and didn't have a use for them. So I have them now. If you need anything Steve drop me a PM or a note here in this thread. I will get it to you...

So he left the copper tubing in the pipe and that holds the form. Correct?

I am painting my suspension but I switched flattening agents and the new one makes it much flatter than the old one. I am trying to figure out which one is close to correct This is the early flattener I was using not very flat. Fairly glossy and looks nice This is the later flattener. Much flatter. almost no gloss Cross member is pretty flat too Table full of parts Can someone give me some direction on which finish is correct. The glossy one is the easiest but I'd like to shoot for the most correct finish.

Jai I wouldn't order anything Steve doesn't ask you to order. I have many of the parts he mentioned. Some are new, he is welcome to any of them for your car. unknown intake manifold with FPR new in box FPR unsure of application Unknown fuel pump

Did he heat form the hoses in the oven or something similar?

Thanks Steve

Where is the FPR located on a 280z?

Thanks JeffG

I believe her 280z is a low mileage car. Her 240z has the 256,000 on it but it has bigger issues than miles

Jim, what kind of negative feedback on the people's choice? What were the complaints?

John Coffey Is Bill Coffey related to you somehow? He had a blue raced prepped Z at Zcon and I thought there might be a connection. Also the John Morton car was a tribute car correct? I made a good many pictures under the hood to log the details

Tire "scrubbing" the wheel arch

Got it. Thanks for the help guys, figured out the resize pretty easy but took me a while to find the right profile page to use it on If you don't recognize it, that is painting of Beale Street that was in the hotel. I thought that would be a good start. Great memories... Site I laughed out loud when I saw that. That was exactly the picture I had in mind and it fits the username quite well!

Is that the slow 280 that comes flying by on the right. They looked like they were out for a Sunday drive. Looked good and sounds great!

I showed these pics to my family and they were blow away with the amount of rust. I am glad the car is being saved and if it were mine I would make sure all the VIN's were on the finished car in the correct locations. Since there is no intent to defraud and I assume you have a title for #19 there should be no problem with that. Even if I had to stitch some metal in to make that happen. Also in most states the VIN on the chassis is the one that matters most all of the attached tags are secondary...