Patcon

What is interesting is the bearing journal has no discoloring at all. I wonder if the coloring happened before machining. Also I have seen much worse bearing shells. If the crank is true and not under sized have it magnafluxed and move on...

Cliff, When you say bulging to what are you referring? I don't see any distortion. Can you point it out. C

I agree with Zed go to the manufacturers websites. Many times they will have info for how much torque their clutches will hold. That will let you rank them. Also try to find reviews online but take them with a grain of salt.

Art takes time... lots of time...

Thanks, Missed the link... A little pricey but a great concept. I would probably fab my own because I can, but I love the simplicity and the bullet proof nature of the design.

Takayuki Where did your mount come from? Did you make it or purchase it?

The carb sync tool you are using will handle higher rpm if you turn the rubber adapter to line up with the holes in the unit. That allows you to tune the 3000 plus rpm values

That's a great way to do that. Simple and precise

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/5106002175.html This one too

get on car-part.com. Search for tanks. I found 2 in Arkansas for $75 and there were some for 76's too.

If you get the l28ET see if they will let you pull it yourself or at least help. Yard workers are notoriously rough with stuff and tend to cut versus disconnect or unbolt. You need all the harness, ECU, intake system, ignition and the exhaust through the "J" pipe

I must have overlooked them...

53k is still pretty low miles for a 33 year old car. Does the 82 have the six digit odometer instead of the 5 from the older cars?

I just bought the lizard skin instead of DIY route. I used the insulating lizard skin first then the sound deadening product. Just be sure when you spray that you get enough on so it lays out smooth or even orange peelie. I may even top that with Dyno mat. The car is already much quieter sounding.

Looked on Rockauto, didn't even seal wheel cylinders...?

True. Having the right timing can change price but I have always sort of worked on the premise "It is worth what someone is willing to pay for it." In this case I can't really do that because I am looking at throwing in a car, a door and a differential and a little cash in trade for a different car. Just want to be sure I set my value right. The link was very informative. Thanks for that.

Zed I know I could sell it on Ebay and truly determine what its worth but this is a little different. It may end up being part of a barter deal and I need to know what the value is so I know what I would still owe for the car we are trading for. That's the problem...

I love how a cleaned up intake looks. Almost as good as triples ... I am so conflicted!

Anyone else want to chime in?

On the E88 issue, I wonder if the there was no clear cutoff or transition to the newer head. Like many things on these cars they seemed to use up existing inventory in a haphazard manner. So the head could be correct even though some cars in a similar VIN range have one or the other head.

280z doors are much heavier than 240z doors. 240z doors feel like empty beer cans. They added a crash bar inside the 280z doors and it adds a lot of weight. Also if you remove them with the window and frames on them that adds too. I would love to learn how to TIG...

Do you have an "FICD"? If so check the lines for leakage. Like Zed said check the vacuum bottle also..

I don't know if this link will work directly or not but here it is https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch/Report?vbe=63940 I agree with Siteunseen of a #2 or #3 condition car. That puts it at $6,800 -$11,200 pretty big range. Read the descriptions of #2 and #3 cars and then look at it and decide which it is. I also agree with Steve people's emotional attachment can make it hard to come to a fair price.

Wow. I hate that. The Z community has lost some great people in the last couple of years...

I don't know who Abraham was. Can you elaborate?