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Patcon

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Everything posted by Patcon

  1. They may have assembled it a 180 degrees out...
  2. I agree you shouldn't have to get to know everyone to ask a question. Many of us have been here for years and we know the "regulars". We all try to help the new people but you shouldn't assume he was being insulting with his recommendations. If you respond in a way that comes across as insulting to a long time member the help tends to dry up. Just trying to point you in the right direction; not be an @$$ . As for your car... Rust is the enemy! I would buy about any reasonably complete car for $1500 if it's not eaten up with rust. Reasonably complete to me is some seats, a dash, drivetrain. I can source the rest. You need to look at the common rust areas: dog legs, quarters, wheel arches, floor boards, under the battery and front frame rails. Be careful of the car in primer. I would check those problem areas with a fridge magnet, not too strong. Looking for body filler, the magnet won't stick. Body filler is not rust repair! It is only rust postpone... Pictures would probably help with getting opinions
  3. Patcon replied to ksechler's topic in Body & Paint
    I agree... Another method is to wet the panel down with wax and grease remover or lacquer thinner. The sheen it gives the panel helps find the flaws the way the shiny paint does...
  4. How do you know CanTechZ isn't one of the experts your looking for??? It's impolite to come into a group and be demanding until people get to know you... and I believe his recommendation was trying to help you...
  5. I use Eastwood's "After blast" to prevent flash rust while waiting for primer
  6. psdenno I saw they're website. Any idea of the cost to sleeve a master cylinder?
  7. My 2 cents If chemical stripping was so risky or had such a high failure rate would anyone still chemical strip a car. There are lots of high end restorers who chemical strip cars. I think like many things, if you follow the proper steps and don't cut corners the end results are good...
  8. Congratulations, Happy retirement
  9. You better be little if you're gonna wear that...much less the cash.
  10. Take a magnet to them. They may attract but it will be weak if it's stainless
  11. That was what I was wondering, I have no idea but maybe ITM is a product line made by them and these are the same pistons with different stampings. IE "the generic"...
  12. I agree Jim, we seem to be loosing the really knowledgeable people. I guess this is bound to happen as time goes on but that doesn't really help much. Make the most of everyday and let the people around you know you care. By the way guys, I care....you all have a great day!
  13. Not surprising...
  14. OOOOOOOOOkayyyy, I love dogs, but as a canine I am not sure they are the most discriminating when it comes to taste. One of my Danes likes to walk around the house with a dirty sock from my teenager... The other one is always licking some hidden spot, well you know...Just saying I am not sure I want my dog picking my flavor of beer
  15. Ahhhh the perfect food, I mean luggage, beer...
  16. I wonder if those pistons were in a properly sized hole? Maybe too tight, maybe too small...got jambed up or tight and cracked off the ear on the skirt. Anyway mystery solved. For what its worth, cracked piston skirts and rings will make your Datsun smoke...
  17. Patcon replied to Vosslar's topic in Wanted
    I understand...your best bet is craigslist in the south west. Look in Arizona, California, Nevada. The rubber will be shot but the metal will be better
  18. Is ITM it's own manufacturer or are they made by someone else?
  19. Patcon replied to Vosslar's topic in Wanted
    Good luck, that is still a tall order even for a rolling shell...
  20. or here http://www.311s.org/
  21. What is the VIN number? what is the month and year of production? Is the original engine in it and match the numbers on the shock tower data plate?
  22. Do they not make a copper exhaust nut or a copper coated nut that would work for our cars. Correct thread and pitch... Would eliminate some of the broken studs issues I believe...
  23. I don't know on the fan. I suspect metal was original but plastic is safer On the bolts most are yellow zinc but not all. Some are bright zinc like the door strike bolts and screws and the hatch screws. The member here with the user name "careless" has meticulously done a car and has good documentation in his thread. Look through it. It will answer a lot of your questions
  24. Michigan, you're right next door...roll that race car out of the way
  25. @Mike Geoff's user name? @Mark Marascan you hit him up for me...
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