Patcon

what exactly was the problem on the starter?

Or you could get some speed bleeders...

I don't know the history of your car, but are you sure the seat covers are OE?

If the ring eyes on the solenoid and the starter are oriented towards each other it is possible they could arc when cranking...IIRC

This site is excellent! It has some great members and an amazing amount of knowledge. Sometimes members occasionally "lock horns" but for the most part the banter is friendly and fun...

Lathe and a milling machine!

JB Weld is an epoxy. It works for many things. It would not be my first choice for this repair because it is an easy thing to pull it and have it re-soldered. If your new car with high strength steels gets damaged in an accident the panel repairs will most likely be completed with 2 part epoxy. So it is not unrealistic to use an epoxy for some repairs, even structural panel replacement! I can think of a number of places where I would use it on a Z and have. This just isn't where I would feel it's necessary...but I happen to have a great radiator shop not too far away

I thought 220 Psi sounded high for regular rubber lines...

Looks great!!

" Even compared to the electronic fuel injection systems of today, the MFI system has a very high injection pressure. Fuel is squirted out of the injectors at a remarkably high 220-250 PSI. This high pressure aids in the atomization of the fuel, which in turn increases the surface area of the mixture. This results in a more efficient and complete burn of the fuel." Found that on Pelican Parts, very reputable Porsche Parts house http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/30-Mfi_Info/30-Mfi_Info.htm If it can handle those kinds of pressures it will be fine for a Z. Are they the right ID size?

It's a California car which is good but no carbs, automatic and a little rough inside. $2,500 may be a little optimistic. I have a hard time pinning down values these days the way prices are moving lately...

There is no danger from the speaker wires. More current on the lighting circuits...

Mine was badly corroded around the edges. I bead blasted it first to try to remove the corrosion then I shot some PB blaster on it for a few days before trying to open it.

Good pictures Blue CO the compression seems to help because the diaphragm is sandwiched between the shells. It has to be compressed some to reduce the friction on the interference fit of the halves. There is no real lock, sort of an overgrown fuel tank sender ring.

I believe Glyptal is a high end coating that was originally used in electrical transformers. Racers like to use it in their blocks to seal the casting so no loose grit can shed into the oil and it enhances oil drain back to the sump. At least that is the way I remember it. I researched it once for a motor rebuild but never used it...

You've got that cool lathe!! I am sure you can come up with sufficient leverage I believe Zed is right, I didn't try the press until I had to come up with a solution to not being able to reassemble it...

That's great he will come to you. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

That's a good looking car

I think it looks great. Don't feel ignored, just didn't jump in...

That's a good price for a 73'. Are there any pictures of the lot...?

I had seen articles about homemade Lizard skin products. In this whole process (car restoration) I always look at the cost savings vs. benefit. If I make a DIY Lizard skin and I have a failure or problem later, was it worth it? There will be thousands of dollars tied up in this car by the end. Am I willing to take a chance on a DIY product to save $100 or $150, for me the answer was no...for some the answer is yes. As I get older I am less inclined to gamble on getting the results I want versus saving money. I don't have time to do this car twice...FWIW my 2 cents

The piston part has a metal piece that slides in from the side and keeps the pushrod captive to the plastic center section. It fits in the rectangular slot just below the cylindrical section of the plastic piece This is the tool I made to open a booster To hold the booster in the vise I took a piece of maple and drilled it so the studs fit in it On reassembly we couldn't get it together so I put it in the press and it went together really easy Be careful on disassembly to make some marks or take pictures so on reassembly the vacuum port is in the correct location. There are like six options... This booster had a ripped section in the diaphram at the bottom probably from brake fluid. I used some black silicone to seal that area up. It seemed to work but I don't know how long. I believe it was on the car I sold a while back Even with the long leverage of the 2x4's I had to put my foot against the work bench to pull hard enough to get it open

I have some pictures of the tool we built. Some 2x4's and some plywood. I will try to find them...

Me thinks your staples are too tight...

Those are some interesting products