Patcon

115mph in boat is hauling it...

Or you could contact one of the members parting cars. There are three currently I believe. I usually feel old used is better than new cheaply made...

I would love for you to provide some more details on what it a takes to go this route. If I were doing a car as a driver only I would be interested simply to upgrade the wiring, but since these cars many times switched the ground or had some other oddities I would like to know how hard it is to integrate a new harness to the chassis

I would agree with Guy. Especially if Rebello did the work...magnet anyone...

What he said...

Ahh puppies, that'll make you see red...

Is that a "surge tank" or an "intake plenum"? I may be mistaken

No hurry, thanks...

I saw that but I wasn't sure that wasn't under coater peeling off instead of rust. The big thing to me as far as an unknown is what is the premium on a very early car compared to a car like Grannyknots sub 2000 vin or a later sort of normal Vin car? I don't know but I would think with the recent appreciation in Z car values the very early cars would experience this even more so. If that is rust, then a color change or recent re-spray would scare me even more. A bad "fill it and paint it" would really hurt if you spent $50k on this car only to find the typical chassis rust in the floors, rockers, doglegs and quarters. While this might seem outlandish today I don't think the days of $100k Z cars is that far off. The really low number cars, properly restored will be bringing that in the next 7-10 years, maybe sooner. Especially if governments around the world keep printing money.... Hagerty has them at $50-60 right now, 10% appreciation compounded for 7 years doubles the value to $100-120k...

You know you are running right at the edge when you have 2 and 3 tires off the ground...

@sdyck If you remove the ac system, I may be interested in it although shipping might be kind of steep...

I agree the low vin is really appealing but the 50k is really too high. The car is obviously not "all original" and I would be concerned it has had a color change. If it is not the original color then a need to completely re-spray drops the value a lot. I would think $15,000 to $20,000 wouldn't be out of reason for an extremely low number car $30k at the outside. 50k....No

I looked a little bit. Everything I saw was NLA. I believe Fastwoman requested one of these kits years ago at the Nissan parts counter and they couldn't get them and they had never seen one

Sweaty If you're referring to the little pod on the left side of the console that is usually the AC controls. Dealer add on...

Look for a thread by careless. He has done a very thorough restoration and covered most of this in his thread. There is not a comprehensive list anywhere that I know of...

Are you sure your timing is not 180d out?

Les Collins motor...sounds fabulous

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series-/162068983109?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276 Number 64 on Ebay. $50k starting bid plus a reserve. It's not even perfect. After market fuel pump. Interior miss matched, shock tower vinyl looks to have flaws. will be interesting to watch. If it brings that the world of Z's has truly changed...

I understand, it's all perspective. I looked up Orlando avg temps their lowest is 49 in January. Their lowest tend to be in the 60's I would think carb heaters would be unneeded in those temps...balmy compared to PA

You can always remove the horn pad and activate the horn mechanism by hand. Use a glove if you are worried about current but it shouldn't hurt since it's 12 volt. It may be the broken horn pad is causing the issue...

@ksechler Check the p-sheets for the products you're using. They will give you finish grits for each individual product. I very rarely finish above 400. I tend to agree with Sweaty, 600 starts to get really slick...

I like the pinstriping. It looks really sharp

That's a good looking car. I love the color. That's a reasonable price for a car in that condition.

tunesnxs I assume you're in Orlando Florida, if that is the case I see no need for any carburetor heating at all, unless someone can point out something I'm missing...

To get your side lines straight. Draw a straight line down the car with a level or some other straight edge using a pencil. Then run a piece of masking tape along the line either above of below. Block sand the panels up to the tape with out destroying the tape. When it's good, move the tape to the other side of the line and block sand again. when you're done the line will be nice and straight...