Patcon

I suspect he kept his heat down to protect your paint. The low heat means low penetration and weak welds If you click on that thread link dmorales posted there are pictures in the thread

Has that cable bent before? If it has bent previously it becomes weaker and easily bent again...

Yup! What he said ^^^^

I think I would find a better welder to weld if for me. The welds look dirty and four tack welds should be plenty strong enough to hold the hatch.

I don't remember all the hybrid brake setups. I believe there is a sticky on Hybrid Z that list most of the available setups using Nissan parts. Those rotors will probably never go on the back though. To keep proper braking ratios the fronts would have to be huge to offset those large front rotors on the rear. Let me know if you don't find the info on the brakes and I will root around. I am sure one of the other members here knows what I'm talking about and can locate it faster than me...

Good luck with the sale... If you will post it in the classifieds with some pictures someone here might make you an offer

Amen. Ditto... The really bad thing is I think I have sweat shirts older than Brent...

That's great. Brakes are nice to have...

The shifter can be removed from the transmission easily if you remove the E clip at the pivot and push the pivot pin out. The shifter just pulls out of the transmission tail then. The brake rotors with the surface rust would be fine but you are correct the only way to run thicker rotors is to swap in different calipers. Somebody a while back was making Km/Hr faces for gauges. Try searching for the thread. Also there is a good dash repair thread on here too, somewhere...

I would start at the heater valve also. Are the lines attached under the hood? I would assume so since it just came from the shop. Are the controls attached to the heater valve? Will the heater valve move? They sometimes corrode in position and won't move...you should be able to see this from the passenger foot well

Look at Hagerty's site and evaluate the condition of the car by their descriptions. Look on collector car trader or Hemmings motor news for similar cars. The number isn't so low as to change the value a lot IMO

I transported mine at spinning height. Loaded up the ramps and down the ramps and towed it several miles like that. No problems. It's not very heavy. Tie it down well, it will be fine IMO

In his first post he mentions the install going into a 240z...

I can't imagine that fiberglass fenders have a lot of worth...

I agree! On the next engine I build this is where I'll put my money just wanted some idea of what to expect.

It's surprising the mesh cost 5 HP. As a side note what kind of money does it cost to have Rebello do that kind of head work?

You're welcome. If you find something feels free to post questions back here if you're unsure of price or condition

The rear mounts on my rotisserie are not as long as yours so they don't have as much leverage as yours. Mine still droop some. The plate at the rear bumper is double sheet spot welded together with a tube piece welded up behind that runs across the rear of the car IIRC. Your rotisserie is nice and heavy. You should be fine, spin it!

Your wants are not being questioned but good FRP buckets are hard to find. As these cars get older and the parts become more rare it is important that you consider all options to make it possible to keep these cars up and on the road. Also minor repairs on headlight buckets gives you a lot more options for viable candidates. I understand no cracks because it can be hard to make an effectual repair. Studs and holes are a lot easier and make a replacement much more affordable and easier to find...

That sounds exciting!! I've seen your welds, I'm sure you can handle it

Steve, How did you see the latch area?

Some interesting names on that deck lid...

Zed I think his point is the track tech people don't want antifreeze in the cars on the track. Tomo Why don't you just drain the car until warmer weather shows up. Store the solution in jugs. This might be a problem if you plan on driving during the winter but you are pretty far North for that. The block can't freeze if it's not full of water...

There is someone asking 2k for a crank on ebay but you can source them for $700-800 in the US. There was also one in New Zealand for sale recently that you could get shipped to the US. The cranks are very tough but it needs to be inspected by a competent crank shop. Straightened, polished and balanced with the rest of the rotating assembly. Sometimes people are interested in other parts off the diesel, the intake, the head, the diesel guys want the injectors and pumps sometimes...

Lot's of room up front now. Perfect for an intercooler Chris