Patcon

Is this the case with Poly bushings? He said he went Poly in the first post...

Beautiful as always!

Now that's a great Christmas present!

A very doable car. The floor boards are toast, but in my opinion the hardest part to fix on the whole car is that bad dent to the left of the rear hatch. The metal there is paper thin and extremely hard to weld or hammer on...

Those bubbles in the paint mean it's not rust free!!!!!

It really isn't that hard to remove the rear harness and reinstall it. Use some stiff wire to help feed the harness back in. I would never leave the harness in for media blasting . They will destroy the harness...

That would be interesting to know! @Mike

@JLPurcell

I think you can actually work around all of that. Not easy but doable...

True. I watched one show where they were painting a hot rod. They drove it onto a piece of plastic. Then pulled that up all the way around and taped it to the inside of the wheel wells and frame all the way around. Paint on the car and no where else

Why can't you register it in another state? what prevents you from doing that?

Why are you going back to the 4 speed? Why would you go back to an L24 unless it's the original block? Most people would consider this as a downgrade unless you are going for a purist restoration.

I was just thinking about this the other night and I think I will mount the tank up first. Much easier and I figure I will have tent the underside of the car anyway to protect from over spray and trash

Thanks. I will work on it...

They're slowing them down to "encourage" you to upgrade...

So they don't come with a frame? Do you have to supply one or do you mate them up after they ship you a dash?

WWWWHHHATTTTT?

You do have to very careful to graft the clip on in the right place. A frame rack would be best, like shown in Diseazed's pictures. Also there is a pdf somewhere that has all the frame dimensions so you can verify rail locations. There is a plan view and a side view. You can probably find it with Google images

Will that interfere with the under dash AC vents? We have one we plan on installing.

I believe, edit the post, highlight the picture and hit the delete key...

I suspect it will work but I also suspect there will be lots of fastener locations in the engine bay that move based on the differences in the underhood components. The radiator support may actually be different than the 240z one also. It will work, just may have a different layout. The hoods and fenders are pretty much the same on all S30's so you aught to be able to hang them on any s30 structure. The lower valances and bumpers varied a lot over the production period On a separate note don't throw away anything. That early style hubcap has pretty good value, even though many people go to after market wheels

You are the man! Went back down there and took the nozzle out and piston slides as it should. 19mm wrench to loose the nozzle holder. Put a philips down in the piston to hold it to the bottom. Thread the mixture nut all the way up. Center everything up and tighten the nozzle holder lock nut. Works like champ now!!! Got a beer waiting on you in Atlanta!!! You are correct and the links are great! I already put some possibilities in my watch list. May actually go with the TR6 choke cable because it's reasonably priced. As a side note where exactly is the choke cable supposed to mount?

If I remember correctly it operated correctly before disassembly. I wondered if the previous owner had mixed up the domes and then compensated by torquing the screws down. I thought I might try the other dome after I get it clean. Really frustrated by this! It looks good now but isn't gonna work the way it is... Why can't it just be simple? @240260280 Any ideas Philip?

The needle is brand new. I thought about taking it out and try that to at least isolate the problem. I added some oil to the dampener chamber. The dome can only go on one way. I tried the tighten while lifting the piston technique, that is how I isolated the issue. There is nothing I plated that should cause this issue...

OK, I need some help now. I am working on Cody's SU's. I got the front one apart, cleaned, replated and reassembled. The screws were stupid tight on the dome when I disassembled it. The problem I have is when I tighten the dome down the piston doesn't want to slide. If I leave them loose it's fine. So now what? Was trying to get these done by Christmas...