Zed Head

Do some prep work before starting it and you'll be months ahead of just starting it it quick to hear it run. Parts are hard to find and the reman parts aren't very good. If you can clean up the original parts and keep them working you'll save money and time. Good luck.

Take the small wire off of the solenoid and tur the key to Start. The pump should run but the engine won't turn. You'll be able to hear the pump. BUT. Have you checked the fuel in the tank? It's probably turned in to varnish and water and rust. Better to remove the inlet hose to the pump and check, before you pump all of that crud through the fuel system. Ten years is a long time.

No, that's a FAST EFI conversion kit for NA. Here is Megasquirt. http://www.megamanual.com/MSFAQ.htm And the most popular source for parts. https://www.diyautotune.com/ You have a pretty big project n front of you.

The fuel pump should only prime for about 5 seconds. If the relay is working correctly. Then it only comes on when the engine is running or the key is at Start. Megasquirt is the most common EFI upgrade. It seems to be an actual upgrade too.

This should help - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/ Don't assume that anything called an "upgrade" is actually an upgrade. It's only an upgrade if it does what you want it to do better than the original design.

Click through to Made-to-Order bushings. Bushings > Drill Bushings > Made-to-Order > Your choice Might be faster than MSA. A bit cheaper. And the exact size that you need. Drill bushings are hard and durable, meant to resist deformation and wear. Edit - the tolerance looks wide on the made-to-order bushings. -0.4 to 0.4 mm. 0.8 range versus .06 range spec. in FSM. Food for thought though. They'd probably be in range, but there's a risk. You could finesse them in with a whetstone. Those FSM specs. aren't well-defined anyway. https://www.mcmaster.com/#bushings/=1c2xu3g https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bushing

You didn't say what letter you need. Oliver at zspecialties might have one. We were just talking about his huge stash of parts. Looks like he blew up his web site though. You'll have to call. https://www.datsunstore.com/

Is it a gouge or did he grind one face completely lop-sided? Might be making more of it than it is. The dimensions are out there, the two faces just need to be parallel and square to the cylinder. The bearing races are rigid enough to live with a small gouge, I'd think. John Coffey has posted a couple or times about just making one from a piece of steel pipe. You could shorten up what you have, making it square and parallel, then shim it to proper size with a round shim. It's a simple piece. Are all three sizes NLA or just one? MSA probably just takes the orders then has a local machinist make them on a piece basis. Hence the high cost. You can do what they do by yourself. Take the old one and that chart from the FSM to an old-timey machinist and see what happens.

Funny, Nissan labels them A, B, and C in the FSM, but 0, 1, and 2 by part number. Looks like you can still get at least one size though. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-axle-drive-shaft/10 https://www.nissanpartswebstore.com/p/SPACER-BEARING/51573072/43090E4100.html

What should really be happening is that these self-driving cars should have giant bells and whistles on them so that people understand the danger. Maybe with a big clown head on the top. Just like train horns and crossing gates. People run out in front of drivers, as opposed to cars, all the time, assuming that there will be a certain reaction time and functional brakes. We all assume that there is a person inside the car. We're supposed to make eye contact before stepping off of the curb. Overall though, this is a typical giant corporate effort, with the parties responsible shielded by distance from the reality of the harm it causes. The guy in the car, that was supposed to "take control", is a pawn in a bigger game. Just like all of the people downloading apps that use Facebook for sign in. We're all pawns.

There was still a day and some hours left but the Monkey's ended the sale. It was at $62,300 a short while ago. Didn't even wait for the typical final day run-up. Maybe it had problems with boiling brake fluid. It might have sold, but who would jump in with a day left. Still no word about Big Mike. https://www.ebay.com/itm/222880182790?ul_noapp=true Edit - doesn't show as SOLD either - https://www.gasmonkeygarage.com/

It's up to 60. Discovery Channel is probably bidding. It actually looked pretty good on the road. They dropped their horsepower increase estimates from 300 over stock to 100 over stock. Still, 250 horsepower is not bad. 450 would be absurd.

Not sure about the resistance jumping. The ECU can only react so fast so a nanosecond blip might not register on a millisecond ECU rate. Your comments about injectors did make me remember how far off mine were on my car right after I bought it. I drove it around like this and, who knows, might have even "wasted" money on a new AFM, assuming that the injectors were all good. The new AFM "worked" for me but I still discovered that some of my injectors were clogged, later. Short - maybe you have one or two clogged injectors. They'll still click, they just own't squirt much. I ran these for quite a while. They're not urine samples.

Take a look at the wiring diagram and follow the path back from the solenoid wire. Don't make it a mystery. Really, you could run 6 feet of wire and make a push button starter if you wanted to, since you know that jumping the solenoid works. You might just have a bad connection somewhere along the way. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/

There was actually a driver behind the wheel in that accident. The car was in autonomous mode. So, ultimately, he is the responsible person. As for the testing of these new technologies on public streets, it's pretty closely related to what Facebook and other companies are doing with their technologies. There is some sort of weird concept in play these days, that the "masses" (that's us) are there to be manipulated and used, like cattle or some sort of plant. As long as dollars are generated from the effort.

I was very tempted to lay on the horn today when I looked over and saw a girl actually texting while driving, on a 45 mph highway. It was a long boring traffic-laden road, but still. The fines are huge out here but people just cannot resist. It is an addiction.

Rephrasing your situation - turning the key to Start causes "a" relay to click but no action from the starter. Try pulling the small wire from the solenoid, cleaning the connections and maybe recrimping the end. Make sure it has a good connection. I came within seconds of buying a new starter for my car until I realized that the voltmeter wasn't moving much when I tried to Start. If the starter was bad I should have seen some draw but got no action. I got out and pushed and pulled on the solenoid wire and it started right up. It had lost continuity, at the connection with the solenoid, even though it looked fine. Also, if you have a meter or test light, find out if the small wire at the solenoid is, or is not, getting voltage when you turn the key to Start. The starter and solenoid do most of the work for starting, all they need is a an amp or two at the tiny solenoid terminal. That's why most manufacturers run full current through the ignition switch for the starter solenoid. It's a small load.

Re my standard paranoia. Everybody is harvesting your data. Facebook can't be the only one. https://www.washingtonpost.com/business/economy/facebooks-rules-for-accessing-user-data-lured-more-than-just-cambridge-analytica/2018/03/19/31f6979c-658e-43d6-a71f-afdd8bf1308b_story.html?utm_term=.d6f8e9a2913b

The assets of both of these guys are probably a pretty interesting collection of parts and old cars. They'd stop scamming people too. Win-win-win. I haven't heard much about URGELIS lately though. Maybe he's straightened up. He used to pop up on various web sites every few months, it seemed. Maybe he just sells good parts for high prices now.

I had some about like that. I sanded them with pretty rough sandpaper then used them. They shined up pretty quick via the pads after that. I would be more focused on the bearings, if you're hoping to avoid a bearing change. If you're sure that they're new and were installed correctly, then sand the rotors to a rough clean and they should end up looking good. If you do get a shimmy or a warple, you can easily swap them out later. Sorry site, that's my low-budget recommendation. Make sure you clean up the spots where the wheel seats so that you get a nice clean flat foundation for the wheels.

Almost forgot about this. Maybe they'll start it up and drive it tonight. It's at $46,300 now. 3 more days. I notice that Aaron Kaufman is still front and center on the page, even though he's not with the garage and didn't work on this car. Don't these guys know that we're all multimedia now? We can't be fooled.

Really though, what we should be pointing out, is that adjusting the valve lash is the very first item in the Engine Tuneup chapter. It's the messiest, most difficult thing, but it's the most important. If you know lash is correct then the noise doesn't sound so bad. Forgot to say, a sticky valve can cause intake popping also. As can a damaged cam lobe.

I've messed with it quite a bit. It only has a noticeable effect if everything else is right, meaning close to lean. I had a method where I would close it down until I got a miss then back it up 1/2 to one turn, before taking it in for emissions testing. This would be after a couple of years between emissions tests where various modifications had happened.

I think that the ticking is just injectors, amplified a bit by the camera. You shouldn't have to plug the vacuum hose to set timing, but it will allow you to get a better view of how the mechanical advance in the distributor is working. Your timing mark didn't move much when you revved the engine. Vacuum advance is normally on a "ported" vacuum source, which means it's closed when the throttle is closed. As soon as you open the throttle you should get a big bump in timing. Yours barely moved. The engine actually sounds pretty good to me, at idle. Your idle is high though, suggesting a vacuum leak if you haven't turned it up yourself. I would let it idle and turn the idle speed down using the screw on the throttle body. See what happens then. If you can't keep it running because the fuel pump switch in the AFM keeps opening it's another sign of a vacuum leak. People find vacuum leaks everywhere from the injector o-rings to cracks in the throttle body intakes hoses. Your vacuum readings are another sign of a vacuum leak. Pretty big, because the small ones don't usually show uo in intake vacuum. Add up all of the small stuff and it says vacuum leaks in the intake system. Keep looking. Check that PCV hose under the intake manifold. That's a common failure and it's connected to the intake system.

eBay says that neither ID has items for sale now. Wouldn't be surprised if Patcon was right. Frank is only a few miles away from Al. Easy to believe that they know each other and the methods seem very similar. Paint over and hide the defects, jack up the price. Conspiracy to to commit wire fraud is a pretty serious offense. Maybe somebody can get two jail birds with one stone. https://www.justice.gov/usam/criminal-resource-manual-965-conspiracy-violate-mail-fraud-or-wire-fraud-statutes