Zed Head

Removing the bolts would turn the engine in the normal direction. Tightening will be backward. Posted a picture I stole from Hemmings, showing fan direction. Are you asking about two things, how loose the bolts were and, apparently, the fact that the engine doesn't turn? Once you break the bolts loose it won't take much to turn them. Pretty sure that my flywheel had never been removed, and it had what looked like threadlocker on the the bolts. I made a flywheel locker from a metal bracket I had lying around.

Seemed like you're just implying that people are wasting their time trying to save a spindle pin. The post had some "troll" to it. The spindle pin is designed, I think, so that if the nuts come loose the suspension won't fall apart. The pin is locked in place. So a bolt might be cheap and easy but it makes the car less safe. There are lots of cheap and easy things we can do to our cars. Cheap and easy is a personal choice, of course.

Wrong thread. This one is about removing the old ones.

Isn't the brand name stamped on the pressure plate? I see a Japan there. I think see Unisia maybe. I have a clutch disc with Atsugi on it. They're suppliers to Nissan. http://www.carparts.com/atsugi-unisia-paraut

The help would be to get a meter or test light and figure out what has power and what doesn't. Sounds like you don't have a ton of electrical experience so you'll have to do some learning or get some help. I'd start with the 12 gauge wire to fused battery voltage. Make sure it has power and the fuse is intact. Then check the wires from the harness that are supposed to actuate the relays. You'll want the wiring diagram for your year of 240Z. You didn't mention that. The fact that you don't have parking lights either, suggests that maybe a fusible link is blown.

Year of car would help. The wiring changed a little. You said "the headlight relay up grade" so it's probably a 240Z? Do you have a bigger picture? That one clicks open to the same small picture.

I rebuilt two half-shafts with $90 worth of Precision u-joints, four, from OReilly auto. Then saw that they were looser than the old ones I had replaced. So I removed them and took them all back for a refund. I felt half-bad, but the parts really did seem of lower quality than the used ones I took out. The Nissan joints have seven different thicknesses of retaining clip. Probably why they cost ~$80 each An old used Nissan joint is better than a new aftermarket joint, I think. That's why I've stocked up on used half-shafts.

When I was removing mine I found that spinning the pin, and moving it back and forth in the bore, helped. I think that the rust and grit and metal shavings get jammed and the movement lets those particles find a new place and release the bind. Also distributes the lubricant up and down the bore. I used an old mag wheel lug nut on the end for spinning and also hammering. Same thread size. I also tore the end off of a pin but I think my fixture got misaligned. And heat cannot be neglected. Gotta have heat.

We need another sacrifice. Melt the plastic out and see what's left.

Could also be a good reason to buy a MIG welder.

I didn't really grasp what the pictures showed. Just to summarize, it sounds like we/us/the Z world is saying that the two metal parts are assembled, maybe fixtured, a pin is driven in to lock them together, then a molten plastic is injected in to the two grooves (which are apparently aligned). I could see the plastic as a longitudinal lock, and the pin as a radial/rotational/locational lock. Without the pin the tube can spin. One probably came before the other. A proper design might have the two functions combined. "Dang it, this tube keeps spinning"...translated from Japanese.

If you think of them as "boxed reinforcing members" instead of frame rails it generates some extra possibilities. You could cut the bottoms off and have a flat piece welded on without even removing floor pan parts or even carpet. Just an alternative view. Edit - I didn't read all of the posts. I like madkaw's. Edit 2 - I like grannyknot's post. Edit 3 - they're all good. I have bad forum etiquette.

I overlooked hot melt, or glue gun material. That would be an injectable thermoplastic. Fits all of the necessary criteria. It would even set up faster than a two part material. Once the heat is gone it's set.

Edit - The self-lockers seem like the convenient way to do things. BUT...if a person wanted to pick, they could point out that the locking portion of the nut might sit on the flat portion of the shaft, the flats created for the staked nuts to stake on to. So, functionally, the crimped nut end has less area to lock on to. But I think the self lockers might be short enough so it might not matter. Probably have to put them and decide if they look like they'll do the job. Looks like you have the stakers on and haven't decided yet to stake them or not.

You might just take a short try at getting the pin to move to see if it's actually stuck. Sometimes they slide right out. You could remove the locking pin and the end nuts then tap on the pin to see if it's jammed. Without removing tires, brakes, suspension, or anything else. Whether it moves or not, it also gives a chance to squirt some rust breaker in to the lock pin hole. My pins were stuck due to deformation of the locking pin hole, not rust. I used a rat tail file to knock the high spots down so the replacement pins would slide in easily.

Just a nomenclature note, and a maybe/guess on what Nissan was doing with the plastic. Thermoplastics don't set, they just solidify from the melt, and can be remelted. Thermosets are the ones that cure and can't be remelted. So if the material melted and flowed it would be a thermoplastic, not a two part thermoset. It might be that Nissan put a ring of thermoplastic in that groove then pressed the parts together. Maybe as a sealant and/or alignment aid, prior to locking it all together with the holes and pins. Some subsequent heat treatment process might have allowed the plastic to flow. Maybe just the paint drying/curing oven.

Are you sure it's actually bent? They look bent from the shape of the casting but the holes are what matter. You have to eyeball down the hole and/or use a straight edge to be sure. And did you bend the inner yoke or the outer flange yoke? Shipping on the half-shaft itself would be expensive. Heavy.

You're very close at this point, and your problems are actually pretty simple. Carb's won't be much easier. You'll probably still have an electric fuel pump, with the same basic problems you have now. Then you'll have to learn SU's. Notice that RossiZ made his EFI system work, before he switched to carb's. Not because he couldn't make the EFI work.

Just went and checked a rail in the garage. The top line looks right as the inlet. Your pressure is too high for some reason. Looks like you have two problems - no injection and high fuel pressure. Very close. You can use carb cleaner also as a starter fluid. Try Patcon's suggestion, just for inspiration.

Are you sure that's what you're hearing? Your fuel pressure is way too high. Kind of looks like you have your inlet and outlet lines to the fuel rail backward, and the inlet is pumping in to the return end of the FPR. Your stock pump has an internal relief valve that lets go at 43 to ~60 psi. If you pump in to the wrong end of the FPR you'll max out your fuel pump pressure. The line from the pump should feed directly in to the rail. The FPR is like a pressure relief valve. It lets fuel by to return to the tank after set pressure is reached. Can't remember if the top line or bottom line is the inlet. Looks like you're using the top as the inlet. To the FSM....

You could run a power wire back to the pump if you just want to pump fuel and hear the engine run. If you want to fix the pump power problem you'll probably need a meter or test light and the instructions from the Engine Fuel chapter. Seems like you have fuel and you have a pump, you just need to get power to it. Don't make it too complicated. My car, when I bought it, had an eight foot piece of wire ran back to the pump from a past PO's problem-solving efforts. I didn't watch the movie. It's 74 MB. And it's only audio.

It's not clear if you want the paint to be exactly like it was when the car was made, or if you want it to look like it was when it was made, or if you want a better paint job that will protect the car as long as possible. Are you trying to do an exact restoration or a better restoration? That will determine should. Number of layers doesn't mean much unless you want it to BE exactly like was when it was made. That's where the restoration guys who know the history of the cars will have the best knowledge.

Today's coatings are very different from 1970's coatings. I'm not even sure that they used two component (2K) coatings back then. They used single-stage enamel, maybe even a lacquer. Generally not as durable as a 2K acrylic urethane but that's what you'd use if you want to go with 1970's original. Someone like kats or hs30 or 26th might know. There's a seam sealer used inside. But in the 70's they weren't using much besides a primer and a color coat for paint. Not even a clear coat or sealer or even protected metal back then. Two layers, I think, over raw steel. That's why there's so much rust. @kats @HS30-H @26th-Z

Here's the Bidder info. 10% or 12% http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Bidder/Home Here's the Seller's (consignor's) 8% or 10% http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Media/Home/Reader/easy-steps-to-selling-your-collector-car/ plus fees for both. Here's one - http://cdn.barrett-jackson.com/staging/forms/1450.pdf It's an expensive adventure.

Motorsport Auto, zcarparts and thesztore are all the same place. Down in LA. They have been in the Z car parts business for years and are very dependable. By the way, posting your name and address next to the pictures of your expensive cars doesn't seem the safest. Maybe you have the best security though and aren't worried. http://www.zcarparts.com/contact.html