Zed Head

Seems like your backfiring might be from other causes. But, when these engines run rich your eyes and nose will let you know for sure. Oil smoke smells like oil, running rich smoke smells like gasoline.

I hereby nominate this thread for "Promotion to the Knowledge Base". Can I get a seconding motion?

Is this the "Knowledge Base" promotion part? How does a person get a thread promoted?

Didn't know that was there. Thanks. I don't see the 240zlover777 connection though. Not that I want to track him, just curious. I've seen other people called out on the old internet before and they tend to just disappear if they're doing something illicit. You never hear back from them. The people that make honest mistakes almost always make the effort to explain it.

Ya gotta click the info button, sometimes on the other brands. This link says 15044303 is the rear hose for a 79 Corolla though. Closer. Blue INFO button. Edit - I mixed my self up. I would just click enough blue buttons until something made sense. Then take your calipers to the auto parts store and make sure they fit. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1979,corolla,1.2l+l4,1274622,brake+&+wheel+hub,hydraulic+hose,1792

How did you find that? I've searched for members on eBay before but nothing ever comes up.

Somehow I missed Kats's post. There's a lot of new things in it that I've never seen before . Too bad we don't have sticky's on this forum. This could be the mustache bar sticky. Seems to me that Nissan got stuck between the differential whine and the mustache bar clunk/thunk. Under acceleration the diff twists, driving one end of the bar up and the other end down. So you can't have too much free space for the bar ends to gain speed or you get a thud/thunk/clunk noise. But if you have things too close, then you can get diff whine as the rubber compresses. If they had just made a less whiny diff, they probably could have avoided a lot of work on the mustache bar.

I often use Rock Auto to research and compare parts. Find the Toyota that uses your new brake caliper and look at the pictures of the brake lines.

Probably got ate by an ad...

I would change the title. Many people want the ZX distributor and module to replace either a bad 280Z ignition module or to swap over from points. Not many people swap to a 280Z distributer from points. CA Datsun probably just resold a reman that he bought from Crown or whatever name is on the side of your box there. Doesn't mean it's bad, just means that he made a markup on it. Edit - it's a good deal at your price. Comes with cap and pedestal. Many don't. Is there a rotor under that cap? Plug and play... https://zcardepot.com/distributor-electronic-ignition-reman-280zx-79-81.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6IX446b02QIVl2p-Ch0uXwf9EAkYASABEgI6NfD_BwE

That's a 280ZX distributor, with the module/matchbox. Not a bad price. Is the mounting pedestal for a 280ZX or 280Z? Reman'ed in the USA. What's the brand? Looks like a Crown something.

That's one of the odd things about the mustache bar. Nissan shows the best picture of it in the Rear Axle and Suspension chapter. But it's not really a suspension component. So tightening up the mustache bar bushings won't really tighten up the suspension, except for stopping the diff from flopping around during spirited driving. I wonder if Nissan kept that solid bushing from 7/71 on or if they switched back to a looser one later. The early cars had the forward mounted diff, which caused its own half-shaft vibration problems.

Won't you end up with polyurethane in the same places as if you bought an aftermarket polyurethane replacement? The polyurethane replacements would probably work great if they just made them from a lower durometer (softer) polyurethane. And polyurethane is generally very durable, as durable as rubber. A person could make a mold from an aftermarket PU bushing then just pour a softer PU. With a mold you could try several durometers. By the way, there's no need to burn out the old rubber. If you just heat the mustache bar ends the surface of the old rubber will soften and you can easily press it out as a chunk.

Here's a picture of where the two lines are on the distributor mount that you can match up. From a guy with carbs, but a similar no-start problem.

It does sound like the timing might be advanced. There are two lines on the adjustment plate that might get it close if you don't have a timing light. You can also compare the edge of the reluctor "star" wheel with the metal strip on the pickup coil and see where the damper pulley mark is. You said that you can hear air hissing thorough a hose and it looks like your PCV hose might be loose. All of the hoses need to be connected. The crankcase is connected to the intake manifold and will cause a vacuum leak if it's not sealed.

I haven't paid a ton of attention to this thread so maybe it's been referenced already. Might not even be the right carbs. But there are 11 pages of carb stuff in the 1973 TSB, with lots of float setting guidance, and even modifications. Copied a couple of sample pictures, below. Haven't really touched a carb since I rebuilt an 800 Theromoquad on a 340 in a Dodge Dart Sport. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/5-service-documents/

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128651-z-and-zx-parts/?tab=comments#comment-1201646

I was thinking about moving to Oklahoma. Now, not so much. Say it ain't so

Just noticed that they don't mention "Big Mike" at all in the eBay ad. I'm losing my faith in the Discovery channel car shows....

I had a brand new Motorsport Auto AFM have a problem with the contact switch. Left me stranded, until I rigged up a bypass wire using a PO's leftover bypass wire. A hair or a piece of lint or something must have got stuck between the contacts. I used a match book striker to clean up the contacts and have been golden ever since. Although, I've had several other AFM's in there in between. It happens. Might be why Nissan got rid of it in 1978. You can check the AFM contact by turning the key to Run/On and opening the vane. You should hear the pump run and/or the relay under the steering wheel click. Easy check.

The ads are showing up where there are large blocks of text. Like your first post. It's not you, it's Google Adsense. Your problem is very typical of the fuel pump contact switch in the AFM not closing. Usually this is due to low air flow through the AFM. Are all of the hoses properly connected to the intake system? PCV hoses and all others? Are you using a 1975 AFM? A 1978 AFM might not have the switch adjusted properly or might not have it at all. Open up the new AFM and check the fuel pump contact switch. You can bend the rod with a pair of pliers to make it close at lower or higher air flow. Move the vane and you'll see how the very small contact points open and close. They control power to the fuel pump relay.

Just to clarify, I did not do much to find Mr. Monise's shop. Just plugged "240Z montclair ca" in to Google. Then looked at the results on the first page. Montclair, 909, and Lotus all showed up in one result. As they do in the eBay ads. This is why we have car clubs... https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=Ke6pWov_E47WjwOv1ZSoBA&q=240z+montclair+ca&oq=240z+montclair+ca&gs_l=psy-ab.3...1803.7897.0.8153.21.19.2.0.0.0.153.1324.16j3.19.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.20.1248...0j0i131k1j0i22i30k1j33i160k1j33i21k1.0.ltolbSJ4bF0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-69-70-240Z-D-HUBCAPS-1st-Generation/123021432102?epid=17015123575&hash=item1ca4a61526:g:ogoAAOSwBU1aihik&vxp=mtr&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

Just to tie the threads together. Will be interesting to see what the reserve is, although, based on the $80K number they talked about in the show, it probably won't hit it. Surprisingly little about the "gas" part. No engine pictures or HP numbers or road numbers or, really, any performance data at all. Just shiny green. Makes you wonder if it even runs well. At least the auction ends after the 2nd part of the two-part show.

The internet is a scary place. I was on my phone and Google showed the last three searches that I had done on my desk top computer. The only connection is my email account which is Hotmail. It's all connected man, and anybody can figure out almost anything about someone else. https://www.mapquest.com/us/california/frank-monise-motors-279360705

I wouldn't worry about the tach needle then. If you're in a hurry you might break your post in to small pieces and repost. Can't read it 'cause of the ads.