Zed Head

This unlike Dave WM. No details! Where's the video?! Did you remove the complete inner panel and just work from inside the car or did you take the motor out? Which type of line did you use for replacement? Probably shown in the link? Mine still moves a few inches at a time. Button, get out and push/pull, button, get out and push/pull.

Apparently the grill is JDM. Who knows, maybe it is "period correct" for Japan. (Still not perfect though.)

Is that "period correct" for 1975 Japan? Re the SpeedHunter's article. Maybe it depends on how you define a period. Just trying to learn more stuff.

What happened since they were rebuilt by ZTherapy? Probably messed with to fix all of those other problems?

I was serious about installing the TC rod alone, with the bushings, then grabbing the end and pulling it through the motion it would see as the suspension moves. The problem will become more clear, and the reason that Nissan designed that groove in the middle of the rubber bushings. New rubber bushings would probably work great. The PU craze has gone a little too far, I think, sometimes. The PU on the TC rods makes the wheels a little less squirrely under hard braking but doesn't offer much beside that. I have them on my car but also have a full set of MOOG rubber that I might put back on some day. A lot of the things I have on my car are there just to see what the fuss is about. That's how I broke a TC rod.

Kind of rules out a direct short keeping them open. But the ECU also determines time open. So they might be opening and closing correctly, just staying open too long.

A shorted injector wire on the ECU side will cause it to stay open. Try removing injector plugs, until you find one or two that make a difference.

Surprisingly few pictures and details, for the money that you're asking. Did you build the engine or have it built for you? Stuff like that. Not that I'm thinking about buying it. The text says only posting here and at the classicz forums. Is here here, or is here somewhere else. Either way, Hybridz seems more appropriate than here. But you probably know that. Have you thought about BAT, with a reserve? Might be interesting. Good luck.

Nissan ZX turbo injectors are a purplish brown color, NA injectors a light green or light tan color. The numbers don't mean much, it only identifies the design of the injector body plastic. I think it's the same number for both. Color is the key. Unless they're some odd aftermarket injector, which tend to be black or bright green.

Purist. http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/01/the-purists-fairlady-z/

Does the tachometer behave normally? Smooth, seems to correctly match RPM? The tach needle is a clue to ignition problems.

The author is listening, via Comments. Maybe somebody can let him down gently. Here's an ironic one, from "researchisyourfriend". I saw the user name and thought he was going to give a lesson. Disappointed.

I explained earlier how a bad ignition module can make it run rich. Too many sparks. It could also cause rev limiting. Overheating. You said that you've tried both AFM's and both ECU's. The distributor is simpler than it seems. A six-spoked metal wheel that has teeth that pass by a magnet. Check the air gap, the resistance of the pickup coil, look for kinked or broken wires. You've kind of worn out the ECU's and AFM's. Ignition will seem like a vacation. Edit - could also be two bad ECU's. Running rich and sudden dying are two signs of a bad ECU.

If somebody adjusted the vane spring on your AFM it could be going full open at low air flow. 246 supplied a re-calibration procedure in the atlanticz.ca link. Out of adjustment AFM fits what you're describing, at least the rich part. Are you sure that nothing is blocking the air path? Air is what allows the engine to rev. Is your throttle body blade opening completely? No rags in the intake ports or intake manifold? If everything is right mechanically it should rev high easily with no load. Try removing the oil filler cap and some vacuum lines and see what happens. Let some air in to blend with all of that fuel.

CZCC.com has the FSM"s here also. 1976 is very close to 77 if you just want to download a chapter instead of the whole book. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/ The Floor Heat warning is just a sensor over the catalytic converter area, and relay. Probably comes on when the key is on but engine not running to verify that the lamp is good, like the Brake Check lamp does. You said "turned it over". That means Start. Did you check for power with the key ON. Check for power at the coil, and at an injector plug or two. Those are out at the ends of the circuit and will tell you if the relays are working, to a point anyway. You can learn a lot with the key On, and a meter check at a variety of spots.

Check the dimensions against the specs. in this link - https://www.opticatonline.com/part/moog-driveline-products-393-universal-joint Looks like 56mm from outer groove edge to outer groove edge. Maybe you got the right box/wrong product.

Do you have any documentation? A build sheet? Provenance? 1/4 mile time slips? Would make it more interesting. @ABQ240

Sorry, that was pretty negative. What do those SpeedHunter guys do anyway? There are several cars owned by members of this forum that would be ten times better to write about. The period correct thing got me...

Interesting car but the writer started with a theme that didn't fit and just kept writing to the theme instead of the car, didn't he? I don't know what a Japanese Fairlady Z looked like but a lot of those parts are new and don't look "70's", even for Japan, I'd guess. The Subaru fart can exhaust tip, the newer wheels, the low profile tires, the racing seats (which he totally ignored when writing about the interior). Nice car, poor write-up. Did they use fender mirrors on 1975 280Z's? Sorry. Just back to my negative form... "Period Correct Z Perfection" is just too much though. It's not correct and it's certainly not perfect.

It's looking like everyone is so hopeful that there's some simple cause for your problem, that we haven't really considered the other parts of the engine. Won't rev, blows black smoke... why'd you buy it? Just kidding, but there are so many unknowns here that you should really go back to the very basics of engines. At least verify that each cylinder creates pressure (measure it if you can), check that the cam timing is correct (there's a notch and a groove), check/set your ignition timing (don't see that mentioned anywhere. Retarded timing will stop engine revving), at least eyeball the valves (set lash if you can), stuff like that. Go back to fundamentals before you get in to the details of the EFI system. The most common AFM problem is running lean in the mid-range. The engine will stumble and buck, you get mad and punch the gas, and it takes off because full throttle adds 27% extra fuel. Or the vane gets stuck and chokes air flow. But if the vane moves freely and you get 180 and 100 ohms on those two measurement, they usually work fine if nobody has messed with the vane spring setting. Just saying, you're starting in the middle of left field.

I looked at my 240Z prop shafts and that divot that Nissan took off of the yoke ears in interesting. I'll bet they used it to expose the cups so that they could clamp them down while staking. If you want some insurance for the clips, you could use one of the billion grades of gap-filling Loctite. Designed to lock bearing races down, which is what the cup is. Spendy but might be worth peace of mind. It could lock the clips on too, so they don't rotate and pop off. They have too many to know which might be best. http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/industrial/green-threadlockers-pre-assembled-wicking-13227.htm

These two seem to be still on the list. When people wash their engines they often describe a wet TVS/TPS as acting like a violent rev-limiter. The engine just stops at higher RPM. The water shorts it. On the ignition system, with reference to EFI and electronic ignition, the ECU uses just simple voltage pulses on Pin 1 to count engine revolutions and determine when to squirt fuel. If it sees too many it will squirt too many times. When the electronic ignition systems go bad they often spark too many times. When mine went bad the tachometer would read about 1.5 times actual engine speed. That's why I asked about the tachometer reading earlier. Just seeing spark doesn't mean it's working correctly. You might dig in to ignition. The GM HEI module is cheap, easy to connect, and good to have around as a spare anyway. The old factory modules are getting old and fail on a regular basis. And the pickup coils in the distributor are known to fail, with wires cracking and shorting as the breaker plate moves. Plus, pickup coil voltage increases with RPM and gets very high. High voltage shorts easier than low voltage. Still wondering about your part numbers. And if your AFM has been adjusted. The glue blob.

Just funny stuff from the eBay ad.

Rebuilt. @URGELIS

No need to apologize. I'm just pointing out that many people do what you're doing and it almost never gets them where they want to be. Just trying to help you down the path...