Zed Head

I think that you can fill through an axle hole also. That square head is pretty easy to get the leverage on though. Not sure why you'd not remove it. No offense to those that didn't.

p.s. I've found that a 12 point socket will often fit a four point plug like that one. The six points won't. But the grip is weak because the contact area is small.

Oops. I use a big adjustable wrench, aka Crescent wrench.

A 1/2 inch socket drive fits. I've found that the wobble type get a better bite. The straight ones slip out easily. Run a torch flame around the plug to expand the hole. It's a taper fit, that's why it sticks out like that, and Nissan used a powerful sealant.

You could use one of these.

These new products are hard to find. Maybe start another thread and link back to this one? Seems like the club would have a sub-forum for individuals who make cool stuff. Not just vendors. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum/93-vendor-marketplace/

Set your distributor rotation adjustment to where you can get lots of advance if you need it. Put the screw in the slot so that you can turn the distributor clockwise with lots of space in front of the screw and just a small amount behind. Then set the slot in the shutter right about on the money. The leading edge is probably the trigger. Then you'll be right around zero when you start the engine and can turn the distributor to get the 8 - 15 degrees that you'll want.

While you're studying the problem, just remember that every time the shutter passes the sensor a spark is generated. So wherever the rotor is pointed will get that spark. The plug wire numbering is somewhat arbitrary. Some engines have number 1 at the back. V8's can have #1 on the left bank or the right bank. p A crank damper could have six marks on it, one for each cylinder. That would make life easier for everybody. The timing light would always have a reference mark.

My point was that #1 is wherever the rotor is pointing when the marks are lined up. The spark will jump to that electrode in the cap when the coil discharges. If you wanted to and didn't have the screw on the adjustment limiting you you could make any cylinder you want #1, as far as spark is concerned. The mark on the cap is for when everything like it's supposed to be. The engine will run fine even when things are off. Check that rotor position. It's the most important thing. Or, you could put your timing gun on other plug wires until you find the one that is right.

When you have the timing marks lined up on the damper at TDC compression stroke pull the distributor cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. That will be your "true" number 1 cylinder. Might be that your oil pump shaft is off and somebody moved your wires to compensate.

There's a fuse. Could be losing contact. p.s. just realized that I found an error in the FSM, Check the bottom of the page and the label on the gauge in the diagram. The bottom of the page is correct.

Here's a good thread about a new manifold design that was flow-tested at the end, and run, and dyno'ed. You can't just "eyeball" in a new design. Just doesn't work.. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/51825-scratchbuilt-l6-efi-intake-manifold/#comments

Don't forget balance. They all need to flow the same over the whole RPM range. 5 and 6 are pulling from the same pretty tight spot. 1 looks like it might get left behind. Hard to predict anything from just a picture. It will be a another fun story to follow though.

Knowledge Base material...

If they don't show it on an engine, running, with some performance numbers, then it's just a pretty welding job. It would be so easy to make a video with the part on an engine, running. They don't even have that, let alone actual performance comparison. I think it's a show-piece. https://www.facebook.com/pg/protunerzz/videos/?ref=page_internal They built the first one in September 2019 and said they tested it, on a turbo engine, but didn't post any comments or results. Since then there is no sign that anyone has even installed one on an engine. I'd get on their Facebook and ask for some results. Things like this are born and die on a regular basis. Most of the comments are about how nice they look and the pretty colors.

That's normal, the cigarette lighter has constant power. The LED probably draws less current than the clock, although I think that chargers draw extra even if they're not charging. It's actually a distinct internet discussion, about chargers. You could put a good meter on your battery to see if voltage changes when it's unplugged or even measure amp draw, if you really wanted to get in to it. Probably not a big deal, I'd guess.

It will probably work fine, the electronics aren't going to age in just a few years. But, apparently, you need to be aware of key position. If you're working on electrical problems, maybe disconnect the coil. That will stop the power through the module that overheats them. Good luck. You might find your distributor advance curves in this thread. It should really be in the Knowledge Base, it's hard to find. @Mike

Did you try a plastic mallet or a block of wood? I think that the parts have some taper and it's meant to be a press fit. Very crude, just get it started and pound it in until it's tight. I think that it might be described in Monroe's How to Rebuild book. Did you install the screen/mesh on the inside of the block that covers that hole?

If I was using an Ignitor I'd just run the stock system. Stock coil and a ballast resistor. It will be easier on the Ignitor and give the same performance as stock. The ignitor removes the need to maintain points but doesn't do much else. It's about like the early electronic ignitions for the 280Z's. If you use a performance coil, with lower resistance, for hotter spark, the odds of burning up the Ignitor increase. Today's Pertronix doesn't seem to last as long as yesterday's, There are stories of sudden failure.

I don't think that anyone knows what's up with that valve cover. How many valve covers get replaced on these cars? They don't get dented like steel covers, and the paint doesn't get chipped 'cause they're not painted. If it is real, how many have been sold? Probably not many at all. It might be real, it might be fake, Frankenstein might have gotten ripped off, but it still looks right so will probably get some points in a car show. Maybe he just overpaid.

Somebody used silver paint. That is not a clear coat or typical protective finish. I have no idea what Aitoku does or did but your after sale replacement cover has silver paint on it, by your description/ Maybe Aitoku was given the contract to produce replacement covers and that's how they did theirs. Painted them silver. So, in car show terms it's not "factory" so you'll get dinged. In historical terms it might be a bona fide replacement valve cover, part of the complete history of the cars. But you have to destroy the Aitoku history to win your car show points. Seems ironic.

Depends on if it's an Ignitor or an Ignitor II. Ignitor II has adaptive dwell so should produce more spark energy with a lower resistance coil. The actual specs on the Pertornix products are hard to find through. They don't really describe advantages, I think they rely on their name for the most part. If it's an Ignitor II you can run a coil as low as 0.45 ohms., no ballast. https://pertronixbrands.com/search?q=datsun&dFR[vendor][0]=Pertronix+Ignition&hFR[named_tags.level_1][0]=Electronic+Ignition+Conversions

It's a dying skill but rotors can be "turned' on a machine to give a new braking surface. It's actually cheaper than buying new rotors. Find an older auto shop, or try a NAPA. Out in Sunriver there's probably a bunch of places that do it.

I like to see the history of things myself. I probably would have set the unique valve cover on a shelf or brought it to the shows and found a different cover to put on the show car engine. You have a one of a kind valve cover, but there's going to be a bunch of identical lookiing cars at the show. That's the thing about the shows, everyone's trying to make their cars look identical. No offense. I'd put those labels under glass so you can show them.

If the valve cover is NOS why would it have a different finish than the ones on a car? Nobody is saying that the covers on the car have paint on them, are they. There must be other replacement valve covers out there from Aitoku. Nobody has one? The original question was - "did I get ripped off?". Seems like you have to choose between making a replacement part look it came on the car, or keeping the history of the replacement part intact because it has its own interesting history. Are the stickers still on it? If not, it probably doesn't matter. Wipe that paint off and replicate. http://www.aitoku.co.jp/e-aitoku/aitoku.html