Zed Head

Have you used a meter to confirm that there is power to the proper places at the tach? My first electrical problems on my car were when I just connected wires by color according to someone else's diagram. The diagram and instructions are just a start. You need to use a meter or test light to confirm that power and ground are correct. I don't see that you've actually measured or confirmed anything, except for one post that says you confirmed "power in the wire". I also see that you, apparently, did not try adding resistance in the circuit to the tach. That would make it identical to the 280Z wiring. The 240Z and 280Z tachs function based on different principles. You can keep swapping parts but you'll progress much faster with some good measurements.

If I remember right wiki editors have to be approved by the wiki owner. I think that you're the only allowed wiki editor at this time Mike @Mike I clicked on the "test wiki entry" link and got a page that looked like your profile page with all of your content. Edit - I clicked on the test entry and it opened. But still no way to add anything. I tried to add a comment but nothing happened. I don't see any way to add to the wiki. I barely know where Wikipedia information comes from. I think the people would have to learn about wiki. Which is like learning Facebook. Which is like learning Twitter. Like Instagram. Tik-tok. It's an electronic rabbit hole.

Good luck. I found that my 78 tach was sensitive to the signal on the coil negative. After I switched to a GM HEI ignition module the tach needle would not track RPM it just quivered and bounced until I added a condenser/capacitor to the negative side of the coil. I had a 78 tach in my 76 because the 76 tach would stop working when it got hot, in the summer months. So the old tachs are wearing out and they are sensitive to the igntion coil pulses. If you add more detail to your description there might be some clues. "Doesn't work" for example, doesn't tell much. My tach with the quivering needle didn't work, but the quiver was a clue. p.s. I'll bet that a tach could be checked for proper operation from under the hood, right at the coil with some jumper wires. Ground, power, coil signal, maybe an added resistor or condenser to be sure. Use your car's engine as the test bed.

I know that you posted some links to someone else's conversion procedure, and there was a lot of discussion that followed, but you might describe exactly how your 280Z tach is wired up. Power, grounds, and any added resistors. It's not clear. If I understand your posts correctly, you followed a conversion procedure but I don''t see the details on how the tach is connected to the car's wiring. I didn't click through to the conversion links.

You won't know until you stop by or call them up. I had two Nissan dealers in my area, one was terrible, one was great.

I think that @SteveJ knows the area. How much restoration are you planning, and do you plan to do any of the work yourself? All options are fine, but will make a difference in recommendations.

They both matter. The oil pump switch plug is on the side of the engine block by the oil filter. 1978 has one of the most complex fuel pump control systems. So, you're going to have study the diagrams. try some things, and take some voltage readings. Keep good notes, they'll help.

Meter, meter, chicken dinner.

Sorry. Piling on. I think that the key to a sub-forum like that would be good instructions to follow for each post. Each title has to have a month and year in it, to show where it fits. Then, the Title or Custom sort function can be used. I've never used it but might. I assume that the default sort is by date.

Maybe there's a way to tag a post, then use a sort function to sort the posts within a sub-forum. That would work. Each post would have a tag, maybe just month and year, to be used to sort the changes. Of course, a person could search for that month and year and get the same list. Anyway, just trying to figure out how a separate sub-forum would be different from just s giant thread.

Without some sort of indexing people will have to search anyway. Unless the first post is about the 1970 cars and everyone has to wait until 1970 is full to add any more, year by year.. I mentioned post numbers earlier because with post numbers a person could keep a list and go directly to a post. Just say "go to post XX" it's there. But the way the forum works now you can't reference a post unless you are actually on that page looking at the post, and you use the little dipod symbol.. The great irony of computers and the Search function is that it lets everything get sloppy. I don't really have memories anymore I just think of search words. If I ever lose access to the internet my "effective IQ" will be halved, at least.

There's a trick with the 78's. Remove the oil pump switch plug. Turn the key to On/Run. The pump should run.

I agree completely. And there are, or used to be, other departments like the CDC within the White House administration (despite recent attacks on the CDC by White House personnel, the CDC is actually part of the administration. It's cdc.gov https://www.cdc.gov/) that are supposed to focus on those areas. All of their work is supposed to be considered by "leaders" at the top and informed decisions made based on the opinions of experts. These other organizations typically are well-staffed and funded so that expert research and opinions can be obtained in rapid response to problems. Unfortunately, I don't think that that is happening.

Is this the way the factory meant it to be? Is this part stock? What is this?

And, on the topic of guts...

The stay-at-home guidance is CDC guidance. The governors are following the science. Not the gut feel of various people with other motives.

That's a good point. Life in a foster home after the parents die is going to be much better.

He has one and he wants you to send him a PM so that you can talk about how to get it to you. Hover your cursor over his name/avatar on the left of his post and click "Message".

What would be neat would be a completely different type of format. Like a timeline that could be added to and modified and expanded in between years and models. The history format. The problem that zKars is describing is really the work involved in going back to find the description or illustration, from some file or post from long ago. Hunting down urls and pictures and posts (without numbers). Any way to set up like a cascading list of threads that we could add to? Non-serial, able to pick a spot halfway through a model year, for example, and add some new knowledge. And visual, all on one page, not like the nested sub-forums that you have to open and search and close and reopen. It's a lot of work just trying to dig in to the sub-forums to find a topic. Get them all out on one page where you can see them all at one time. Just a thought. Otherwise, the new sub-forum will go dormant as they do and get buried with the other sub-forums. It needs its own box at least.

1/06. I hope that's an old picture. Or maybe you get some serious time from your batteries. Congratulations.

I used to swap multiple different batteries into my Z and never had a problem. I wonder if he installed the tray upside down, or maybe a PO "fixed" a rusted out shelf, too high. Could happen.

What kind of damage? They can be rebuilt. @borini63 has spare parts. I think that @zKars does also. Edit - Oops, I didn't see that SteveJ had already notified borini63. Didn't read it through the orange...

Forgot to say, with a meter you can also measure power right there at your relay plug. That will tell you if the relay is getting power or not. If there is power there you can jump the pins to do what the relay would do.

I think that that type of sensor works from AC current. The alternation creates a magnetic field that can drive the sensor. i don't know if they work with DC. I know they don't if there's no current flow. You should get a meter, you can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight for about $6, I think. You really need a meter to measure resistance and voltage. There is a whole series of tests that you can run to diagnose your problem. I'm going to guess that the fuel pump is bad and/or the tank is clogged. Did you drain any fuel from the tank to see what's in it? You don't want to pump a bunch of bad fuel in to the system anyway. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-Function-Digital-Multimeter-63759.html https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/32-efi-book-1980/