Zed Head
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Everything posted by Zed Head
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Not really clear how Haltech does their ignition. Might want to dig in to that a little more. https://www.haltech.com/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=ht_get_file&id=5d227b76506c252c8b7fb0d1&op=1 https://www.haltech.com/wp-admin/admin-ajax.php?action=ht_get_file&id=5d351552506c25377c49fae6&op=1
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I am pretty sure that the R200 started with the 1975 280Z. It has its own unique pinion flange bolt pattern and bolt size. I have never heard of the different pattern for a 260Z diff. From 1976 on the pinion flange pattern and bolt size stayed the same until the 1984 300ZX's with the short nose R200's. You have to go by year because Nissan went away from the R180 then started using it again as I showed above for 1976 and 1978. The same body types used different diffs in 1978, according to the FSM. In 1976 they all used the R200.
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More from 1981, PD chapter.
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I think that Carl Beck has a pretty good description on his zhome site. I'll see if I can find it. You can't generalize by just the type of car. You have to go by year. Here are four examples. 1976 USA/Canada 280Z FSM 1978 USA/Canada 280Z FSM 1979 USA/Canada 280ZX FSM 1981 USA/Canada FSM
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We're teaching how to wire a fish. It's complicated.
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Deleted some wrongness. I would just use the R, B, S, and IG to decide what to use to power your Haltech and parts. Believe Steve. That would be a great political slogan...
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The diagrams never show the colors from the device, only the colors in the main harness. So you'll have to use the plug to convert from device harness to main harness. I screwed up and used the 74 260Z diagram. Deleted those pictures. Steve is on the proper car. Oops.
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More sales. BAT might be the best thing that has happened for old car sales in decades. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1981-datsun-280zx-21/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-amc-matador-barcelona-coupe-last-matador-built-1-of-1/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-98/? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-58/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-buick-skylark-7/
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Your tools look right but you can probably use the splines for the Vise-grips. I think that's why they are there.
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Pop the little screw out, put a Zerk fitting in and grease them up. They'll probably last another 50,000 miles.
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If the windshield seals leak that's where the water path is to the floor, depending on at what angle the car is parked.
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Used Nissan u-joints are often tighter than new aftermarket u-joints. "New" does not always mean better.
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No, it was No Good. I had a spare. Your relay is a typical 4 pin relay (two of the pins in yours are connected, that's why you only have three terminals). You can buy them for a few dollars at any auto parts store.
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Use a screwdriver and pliers and bend these two tabs back. The board with the parts on it will come out. It will probably look like this inside.
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Forty-five five for a red seventy-three. Pretty good.
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Lime-olive green? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-157/
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Can't be sure. Not looking good. If you're getting power at the horn button wire then the connections on the way to the horn wire should be good, they use the same plugs, in and out. It might be that the light is going out because the solenoid coil is bad. The heat from grounding the circuit opens the circuit. Can you trace the green wire from the C-6 connector and see if it gets to the horns? That would be a clue.
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The test light probably goes out because you're measuring the side with the resistance of the solenoid coil. When you complete the circuit and the current passes through the contacts the voltage through the solenoid drops too low to light the light. What kind of test light do you have? Another way to test the horn relay would be to connect it to one of the horn wires, at the horn location at the front of the car. Then press the button. The light should light. If it does the relay works.
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It might, I'm not sure. I'd use a short Phillips head and see if could get the screws out. Or a long one, sometimes a long blade will reach through the morass and get to the screw heads. Looks like two and it should fall right out.
Should also hear the relay click if the horns are not too loud.
Only if the green wire has a good ground circuit.
Find the wires with the right colors. Green, green w/red, green w/black.
Do you have a small bumper 260Z or a big bumper 260Z? Maybe you should be using the 1975 280Z FSM. 260Z was a changeover year. Here is 1975. Maybe it has a clue. The location of the fuse box might help, for reference, and the vent pull.
Probably not the horn relay. You keep showing the picture with four black lines on it. What is that picture supposed to illustrate?
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