Zed Head

I had one break with the hard PU on the back and realized that the bushing on the back restricts the motion of the tip of the rod as the rod itself moves up and down with the control arm. This puts a big load on the stress riser at the bottom of the threads and causes the metal to fatigue and break. The rubber bushing is actually formed so that it allows a wide range of motion, up and down and sideways, of the rod but still controls fore and aft motion.

Not clear what this means but if the tachometer needle does not seem to match engine RPM correctly that is a sign of an ignition module problem. If banging on the ECU clears up the rough running, that's an ECU problem.

Kind of sounds like the bad ECU problem, or bad ignition module. Did it smell like raw fuel?

Same thing?

Need details. Without the AAR you would need to hold the throttle pedal down with your foot to keep RPM up.

1978 had the first "adaptive dwell" system for the Z's, I think. At least they trusted it enough to run enough current to open the plug gaps. The 1978 spec should work for the Ignitor II. Some people like to run the projected tip plugs but I'm not sure it makes a difference. Not sure why Nissan changed, maybe due to detonation issues with the leaner EFI systems. Just a guess.

I'd get the plugs for the engine - a 78 280Z.

Once you get past a certain point you kind of have to use your own tricks. The roll pin can be hard to get out, to disassemble the shaft. Check your timing advance movement with a timing light and you'll get a good feel if it's responding quickly and correctly. Hook up the light, rev the engine, watch what happens. Disconnect vacuum advance and do it again. Hook up vacuum advance to full vacuum at idle (you have to find a port), you should get full vacuum advance immediately.

The Ignitor II is an adaptive dwell system, AKA current-limiting. If you use it with the low resistance coil they suggested, the FlameThrower II (primary resistance 0.6 ohms), you should be able to use the larger plug gap.

The breaker plate (the assembly of parts with the screw and the ball bearings) can be disassembled. There's a snap ring in a groove that lets it all come apart. Then you can shine up the ball bearings and the surfaces they roll on and slide against. The black piece with the bulbous protrusions needs to be smooth inside so the ball bearings can slide. Several people have also found that the vacuum diaphragm was shot on their old distributors. If you're not going for reproduction you might be better off getting a newer distributor and making it work. Keep that old one as a piece of garage art. It has some unique features, like the external spring on the vacuum advance module. You didn't mention the centrifugal advance pieces either. They need to move smoothly also. They're under the breaker plate, weights and springs.

Looks like the very early distributors didn't have the second set of ball bearings. 1972

I think that it is Nissan original, I've seen it described. Maybe even in the FSM. Looked at the 1970 FSM and these drawings/pictures came up.

Are you saying that he had the wrong ones installed? You said that they were new in the first post and that it's an early model. That would be short in short. How can they be wrong? Not really clear what's going on.

The condenser by the coil is for radio noise. Leave it there. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0247/6913/4628/files/1761.pdf

The color wiring diagram doesn't make things clearer. Two blues. Oh well. Edit - actually, compared to your picture it does make more sense. The FSM seems to be off.

I have vague memories of the wiring diagram colors not matching the car, in past threads. I think it ended up as just one of those things that is, reason unknown. The wait for voltage spikes is on now...

I'd be willing to trust 77Z's vision. W/R = White with red stripe, etc. The only secret is that L = blue.

I think the colors shown in the FSM are the body harness colors. If anything was switched it would be there.

Since it's so easy to swap them, one thing you might do is to check the connections in the plugs carefully and make sure that they are fully seated. Spray some contact cleaner, make sure the plug is fully inserted. All signs say that it should work.

I think that he might be using the gauge in the dash, which is not very accurate.

Actually, it looks like just the plug changed, but the wires and orientation are the same. You might reconnect it and give it a few sharp raps with a plastic screw driver handle. It is mechanical and it's been sitting a long time. Or take the cover off (should be easier than the Unipoint) and check the points for corrosion. 1974 1977

Actually the mechanical VR's can charge up in to the 15 volt range. It's shown in the FSM. Might be that the external solid state VR's do also. I have memories of different wiring schemes for VR's over the years. Did you compare the wires at the plugs between the two VR's? Not clear that the one you got is correct for your year. 77Z, your post is a little confusing because you didn't say exactly which one gave 16 and which one gave 13. Sounds like you're saying that old one, that spiked, shows 16 on the meter, and the new one with the charge light on shows 13.

There is a substantial difference in length between short tower (240Z) rear shocks and tall tower (280Z) rear shocks. A short strut in the tall tower tube would let the gland nut crank all the way down and the insert clank around in the tube because it would be hanging free. That would be an early insert in a late model tube. You can tell early versus late by the height of the rear shock towers inside the car. 36001 is short and 36003 is tall. You would not be able to fit the nut on a 36003 in a short tower strut tube, it would stick out of the tube too far. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,suspension,strut,7584 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502600&cc=1209226&pt=7584&jsn=702 https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,240z https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502428&cc=1209170&pt=7584&jsn=652 Look at the wheel well bump compared to the strut tower. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-222/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-119/

"Electronic ignition" is what you mean by "electric points". The points are already electric. What type will you be installing? there are many. Interesting that people suggested 1, 2, 3, 4 and you said okay my plan is 3, 2, 4, 5. Nothing wrong with doing your own thing, just interesting. Good luck.