Zed Head

Have you studied the factory curves? Vacuum advance disappears pretty quickly, and it's only vacuum (pressure based). Does the software allow you to change units? It will make things easier. There are conversion charts. I'd match a factory setup and then tune from there. https://www.vacuum-guide.com/english/equipment/conversion_pascal_bar.htm https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/vacuum-converter-d_460.html

Can you point that out in the text? Maybe you read in to it subconsciously, with "driveshaft angularity"? I can't find anything specific about getting noise from a top mount. Quite a few people running a top mount only. It works well. Although I did make mine to match driveshaft angularity. RTz built his for a V8 application, originally, so changed the angle slightly. p.s. they call it a mount but it is actually a strap replacement when used with a snubber. Pedantic... https://www.technoversions.com/DiffMount.html

I had the clunk and made my own mount, based on the RTz design. I am pretty certain that the noise comes from the diff nose rising up then dropping back down on to the crossmember. The clunk is when it hits. There is a video or two out there showing that. So, the use of a snubber on top is really just stopping the initial rise. It works, just pointing out the why. One nice thing about hanging the diff nose from the top is that you can mess around with your rear suspension without having to deal with the hanging diff nose. But, really, a new diff mount will probably get rid of the clunk. It's really hard to tell that the mount rubber is worn unless you stick a pry bar in there and lever it up, with force. It is surprising how far it will move. I made a new mount because I bought the car for something to work on, a reason to be in the garage. It was a challenge. But today I might just buy a new diff mount if it was available.

I found some yellow ones in Australia. https://www.ebay.com.au/b/Coil-Springs-for-Nissan-Datsun-240-Z/33582/bn_7019833571 and Summit, but they aren't specific on vehicle. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afc-25225-3?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwoduRBhA4EiwACL5RP1FKAFgrHQZEuWSVT8JZyqMnHkertyDdfGfUFJhOg00yDEjZ945UjxoCWMgQAvD_BwE

Here's a Hybridz link with a youtube video. The guys that posted in it are some of the smart engine building guys. Might give you some ideas and the video has good images of the marks and the links. He has dark links. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129303-matching-cam-crank-timing/ Time-stamped the video.

There's probably a cam lobe at a certain point when things are right that you could use instead of the marks. Just about to get on the ramp or straight up, or something.

Everything seems pretty well installed, but it's just hard to tell if the cam is oriented correctly. Weird that the aftermarket companies have removed all of the marks needed to ensure proper installation. Is there a mark on the lower sprocket? I looked at the images on Rockauto and couldn't tell. They might be showing the backside. Edit - I think I see it now.

Is that Hank Jr.? I didn't cheat, but I will now. I was close -

Funny, I saw the cartoon and thought the right words to search to be sure, (Edit, deleted stuff - never mind. I see that the caption fits what he said. Oh well.) Would Heisenberg be more appropriate? Not the Breaking Bad one.

There might be numbers and/or letters under the dirt. Tokico puts a number on theirs.

But integrity is undefined until it's off and disassembled. The dilemma.

Try splitting the cover off of the pump body, 5 and 1. That's probably where the stuck bolt is stuck.

An N42 on flat tops will be up there, higher, in CR. But, usually, full timing is in by 2500 RPM, so you might be a little bit cautious. Your MAP curve (vacuum advance) seems a bit odd also, you might look at some examples from the FSM to see what Nissan does. @madkaw has done some tuning on performance engines, as well as @Diseazd and other that I can't remember right now. These are for 1973

I have seen descriptions of it being done. You have to put the number one cylinder in a certain spot so that you can get the pan past the counterweight. But rod bearings don't go bad quickly on these engines. If you have rod bearing problems there's probably a lot more wrong that needs fixing. You didn't say what car you're working on. Good luck.

Looks like somebody put a lot of work in to it. Why not the last piece though? Makes no sense! "400ci Chevrolet V8 is equipped with a Holley Stealth Ram intake and throttle body, sequential-port fuel injection, an electric cooling fan, an engine-compartment fuel pressure gauge, a Harwood plastic fuel cell, and a remote battery mounted in the trunk.......Power is sent to the rear wheels through a Ram clutch and a Tremec six-speed manual transmission." and an R180.

You can open up the 1977 or 1978 Prop and Diff chapter and there are drawings of the two. Yours is a typical ZX R200, it still has the ZX mount on the cover. The clean black one is an R180, the ring of 5 bolts is for the "side retainer". The R200 doesn't have those.

If your sprocket has the notch in it you can just use the notch and groove. Keep the tight side tight.

Coolant. If the seal goes bad, it weeps out the weep hole.

Check the weep hole.

My post was actually meant for Cruzzar, he's the one that would have/should have clicked the link to see what SteveJ offered. I wonder the difference is between the original and the replacement?

It was right there in SteveJ's second link.

Who? For the next guy...