Marty Rogan

Glad to hear you guys finally had your first track day at HPR! Congrats on a job well done. Was that you driving? What kind of car was that? It sure looks like fun! I have my first track day of the year coming up on April 25th, at Road America. I can't wait to get back out there! Enjoy. Marty

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Just thought I would throw in my experience for reference. I have had them on my show car for about 8 years. Have had no issues whatsoever. It is very true that you don't want to hamfist them as they WILL break. I have had them on my race car for about 4 years. Again, no issues. If you do alot of bleeding, I recommend getting the tube of sealant to re-caulk the threads occasionally. I also recommend the optional clear fluid collection bag. I bought a 10' section of tight fitting clear tubing and connect it to the collection bag. I can attach it to any corner of the car and watch the fluid flow into the bag, right from the driver's seat. You can easily see when the bubbles stop. This set-up has worked great for me. I have also put them on all of the other bleeders on the car: master cylinder, and clutch slave. To each his own, but I like them alot. Marty

I can vouch for the spindle pullers. I have done this job twice and I would NEVER attempt it without one. I averaged about 10 minute per pin as apposed to hours I have heard it takes without a puller. Another neat trick I learned to stay away from the toxic fumes of burning the bushings out, is to take your electric dill and drill a million holes through the rubber part and then when its loose, pull out the rubber with pliers. I think its faster than burning too. Once its out you either clean out the rubber and leave the outer bushing collar if you are using PU bushings, or if you are going stock rubber, you need to carefully cut the collar with a hack saw and ply it out. I'll agree that this is not a fun job, but with a puller and patience it is totally doable. You might as well clean and paint everything while you have it appart. Good luck. Marty

Congrats Carl! That looks like it made for one fantastic event! The car looks like a milion bucks, at least! Glad to see our Z's getting the respect they deserve. Show us more of the event! Marty

I just called Avenue Nissan at the number five & dime posted. They confirmed that that Vancouver warehouse had H0901-N3300 for $184.48 and Toronto had H0900-E4100 for $192.90. Unfortunately for me, they would not take an order over the phone for shipment to the U.S. They said you had to pay in person. Marty

Do you know if the Candian Dealers will sell and ship them to the U.S.? Marty

Choke/throttle control? It will make your engine race, just not necessarily faster. Marty

I don't know. He was the first one that popped into my head when I saw it. I was going to add it to the throttle control knob thread, but I could not find it. I figured it could get more general exposure this way too. Hell, if we can get donations to buy a new server, maybe we should all chip in and buy one of these. And the best part is it is made in the USA, so we would be supporting our economy too. That 3-D "printer" is incredible. It even replicates moving parts. Marty

Well guys, here is the answer to all our problems finding those NLA Parts. With one of these we can make our own! Check it out: http://widgets.nbc.com/o/47f1317f105123ad/498ebd00a62edaa0/47fe70d4555df05a/9e46bd46/-cpid/ba4377d3bfd6c81 Now all we need is a few thousand to buy one, ! Pretty cool though. Marty

Much much did the lift cost? Did you assemble it your self? How difficult was it? Beautiful Z by the way! Marty

Glad to hear no parts will be harmed. Thanks for taking on this project. Marty

So, does the casting process ruin your pretty NOS parts? that would be a shame. Marty

Thanks for confirming on the '71. That would be the correct range on my car, which is # 5341. Still need to confirm what version applies to that. Marty

Try the NASA classifieds: http://nasa.racingjunk.com/ They usually have a wide variety of trailers for sale. A buddy of mine bought a used 20 footer last year for about $4,500. Marty

Thanks. So would this one be correct for a 1/71 model? I am also interested in getting the correct one for a 6/70 model. Thanks again. Marty

The rear hatch on my car had the holes filled where the deck emblems go. I removed the interior panel. From there I located the holes that were filled in. I used a very sharp L-Shaped pick to gently pluck out the filler and make a small hole in the paint. Then I went around to the top side and gently enlarged the hole to full size. I would recommend taking the interior panels out to locate the holes. Good luck! Marty

Cool! Do you know what year the colored one is for? Marty

Congrats and welcome to the club! The car looks pretty nice from the pictures. The 70/71 models are often refered to as a Series I Z. They are the most sought after by collectors. So any mods that you do to it will likley drop its value. I would suggest only doing bolt on mods that are easy to return to original. Keep all of the original parts too. Those "D" hub caps are not pretty to look at, but they are very valuable. Do a search on this site. Value of these cars have been discussed many times. Post some pictures of your blue interior! They are pretty rare too. I also have a blue on blue '70 and I am always interested in seeing another one with a blue interior. Marty

Please do keep us posted. I would like to get a throttle knob too. Marty

Thanks Mike. I was able to get an NOS passenger side panel from MSA years ago. I might be interested in your other blue pieces, depending on what you have. Send me a PM with a list if you are looking to get rid of them. Marty

Thanks for the tip Ron. Also I meant to say that I have been looking for "Blue" NOS drivers door panel. If anyone happens to find one for sale, let me know. Marty

Let us know if they have any other NOS colors available. I have been looking for an NOS driver's door panel for 10+ years. Marty

Thanks for your thoughts on them Jon. I think if I had to put in a cross brace to support it, that would be just be adding more weight with not much benefit. I would rather fabricate something to fit in the existing frame rail tow hook holes, or just use the original tow hook. The rear one looks decent though. Marty

I saw those tow hooks and was very interested in putting them on my track car. I am a little concerned that if you got towed out with the front hook, it might wrinkle that headlight area. I am just not sure it it strong enough. They look nice though. Marty

I have run several events with MVP. They run a top notch event. It is well organized, safe and you get tons of track time. They get two thumbs up from me! Marty