Diseazd

Isky calls for .010" intake......012" exhaust. I went to .008" intake and .010" exhaust........that didn't change anything!

Yes we can replicate the sound free revving. The sound is definitely coming from the top end. The sound is almost liked loose ball bearings.....all valve train is getting sufficient oil. We put a stethescope and screwdriver on all sections of the engine. The loudest noise seems to emit when you put the screwdriver on the fuel pump......it almost sounds like it could be chain noise, but the chain is new and tight as can be. Called the Z doc in Roanoke and he said after eliminating all that I've done, it could be the cam profile, but Ron Isky had never encountered this problem....he's calling some customers to see if they've had problems. I've taken the engine completely apart and back together with no evidence of a problem on any parts. This is absolutely got us stumped! Any ideas?

I built an L28 with standard flat tops,a P79 head shaved .080 shimmed cam towers and a Stage III Isky reground cam. Everything in the engine is new (rockers, springs, mains, inserts, chain, oil pump, guides, crank pulley,cam pulley, etc. etc. etc.) The engine runs great! However, when you rev the engine to 4,000 and let off, it makes a ball bearing type of noise at 2,200 rpm on the letdown.When you run it up the noise comes on at 2,200 and disappears at 3,000 rpm. I've eliminated the oil pump, the distributor, alternator, fuel pump and water pump as possible noise sources. This is driving me and everyone that tries to figure it out crazy. I've contacted Ron Isky to see if he's run into this before and he said no, but would check with some of his Stage III buyers to see if they've run into this problem. Any ideas ? Thanks Guy

Don't forget to install a pilot bushing in the back of the crank!

The Car Show in the Spring in Hampton.

I can't claim the pics.....the Club photographer sent them out.....there were some real nice cars present. See you in Hampton!

http://nixpix.smugmug.com/Events/Ztoberfest-09/10012837_DWxyE#P-1-15 Miserable weather.....great show. See you next year....I hope. Guy

Dave.....Why do you have to replace the VR everytime you replace the alternator? I didn't do it last time and blew out the VR, but didn't know why.

Put a timing light on it.......it sounds like your timing(ignition timing) is way off. The timing should be between 10 to 15 degrees before TDC.

Take it to a machine shop......They will fix it cheap.....install heli-coil if necessary.

The 2009 Ztoberfest will be held again at Victory Nissan; 11401 West Broad St.;Richmond, Virginia 23223 on October 18th 9:00 till 3:00. www.richmondzcar.com for details. Hope to see some of the East Coast cars at the show.

ZLADY.....Great pics....lots of familiar faces...Fred(ZPIZZAMAN),Todd, Eiji. Where's the Z graveyard? See you in Richmond October 18, I hope. Guy

Jeff... Good to hear you made the change to real carbs......did you fix your oil gauge problem? Guy

Since you changed plug wires, make sure you replaced the wires in proper firing order....remember, the rotor turns counter clockwise.

Remember......At B/J the seller pays 10% as does the buyer.

Flat side back towards the flywheel.

More gold.

Another car in gold.....this one is a VZ from Carl's files.

One spring ends in "1" the other ends in "2". The letters are such that when the springs are installed you can read the letters and numbers right side up. I believe the "1" is front and the "2" is rear. Call MSA and they can tell you.

J.0. ........That car is out of Woodlands Texas....the owner is named Frank....Zedyone originally posted the picture and I liked it so much I saved it. When I asked him what he used he said 920 gold with 3 coats of clear...I just P.M.'d him and asked if he would respond on this forum. Hope he responds so we can get details...his car is certainly close to a perfect match of 920 gold (IMO).

Slighly twist the seal as you install it........don't seat it quite flush as many cranks with a lot of miles may actually have a groove worn in it from the previous seal. You want it to seat on a different spot than the old seal. Heavy oil or grease will work.

It's probably your rear main seal. You can pull the transmission (easier than pulling the engine) IMO......pull the clutch housing, then the flywheel. Pull the seal out with a seal remover or long screwdriver. When installing the seal, grease the lips well before installing.

The color is beautiful, but seems lighter and less brown than the original Safari Gold. It could be the light but the attached seems to be closer (IMO).

Brian.....I have a PPG chip(Safari Gold) for my 71........looks pretty close to the original to me and my painter......you can buy a pint and shoot a chip......remember 35 years of fading makes comparison difficult. Also, Chuck hasn't jammed anything yet.....will pass it on when he starts shooting. Guy

Thanks Geez.....I really had to have a 73.......and silver is my favorite color....I'm pretty damned sure this is it! Guy