Diseazd

Isky will regrind your cam to stage III, provide the proper valve spings (stock is good for only .450 lift max.) lash pads and retainers for $390.00. New rockers are an absolute must for a new regrind ($200.00 from Nissan). The L28 stage III is 10 degrees greater duration than stock with a .490 lift. You really feel this cam come on above 3,000 rpm. Head work helps as well as headers, but increased compression with flat tops does the most for a hotter cam. www.iskycams.com

Could be a P79 or P90......With flat tops, either head would give you about 8.5 to 1. To increase compression,you'll need to get someone to shave and shim the head. .080 cut will give you 10 to 1, but the cam towers and valve springs must be shimmed .080 also.

Motorsports sells the bolt kit for the thermostat housing.

I believe the oil plug is magnetized. It may be attached already!

Pull the car uphill slightly.......pull the oil drain plug and watch it come out!!!!

280 master.......The owner of that motor must have run on grain alcohol......the flask is still attached to the front of the block! Nice paint job!

Mike....If it's that clean, I wouldn't "futz with it". Put it back on as is and run it!

I'll post the pics as soon as I pick up the head. This is what's so cool about the L-series motors........people are always trying to squeeze that extra streetable h.p. out of a 35 year old motor! Thanks Guy

Ditto for me gerry 240, and also for setting points.

Carl......I've got your answer. Go to www.datsunzgarage.com click performance tip, then under heads, click the underlined P 79. This guy worked with the Z Doctor and has built and discusses the identical engine to my first build. He mentioned that he cc'd that identical P 79 .080 cut and shimmed head and got a reduction to 46cc chamber volume. Now you can tell me what my 1mm overbore will give me as a CR. I appreciate your help. If I did my numbers right, with the stock gasket that would be 9.9645 to 1 on the 1mm overbore. Guy

Carl.....The first L 28 I built was standard bore, flat top pistons, F 54 block, P 79 head shaved .080, shimmed .080 with Isky Stage III cam .490 lift and 20 degrees more duration than stock L 28. I guess you could start with the CR of a stock 1983 L 28 which is standard bore, flat top pistons, standard head etc. ( what CR was that engine stock?). If it was 8.5 to 1 or so, I guess the decrease in head volume brought it up to 10 to 1. The new engine I'm building now will be bored .040 over, so I'm not sure what CR I'll be running on this engine, but I've had absolutely no problem with 93 pump gas with the first one.........It's a real joy to drive with the SU's. It really gets up and goes and has very little lope. It makes driving a ball!!! Guy

Carl....... I've seen how it's done in my old "Modify 510,240Z Book". Doc probably knows to the cc what the volume is.......I'll ask him next time I talk to him. He did say that the standard bore L28 with .080 shaved P 79 head was 10 to 1 compression, so you might be able to plug in your other known L 28 numbers to find swept volume. Guy

Gary.....The Z doctor in Roanoke is building the head.......he says 10 to 1 , but with the higher duration cam it runs perfect on 93 pump gas....at least the last one I built did! Carl.....I'll get pics of the head with valves when it comes back.....I'm not sure how I could cc the head though. Guy

Points are fine if you keep 'em set correctly........gives you something to do from time to time!

I'm building a new L 28 for the green 72. We're using an F 54 block and a P 79 head. We bought Nissan original new .040 over size pistons.We bored the block .040 over and .080 shaved heads (shimmed cam towers). SI stainless swirl valves and an Isky Stage III cam. New rockers , springs and retainers. We'll update as we build onward. Guy <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3530079948/" title="IMG_1652 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2323/3530079948_bd79878ae4_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1652" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3529267621/" title="IMG_1653 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2133/3529267621_a017b24083_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1653" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3529268785/" title="IMG_1654 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2154/3529268785_3c1e3ae0ab_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1654" /></a> Pistons <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3532382276/" title="IMG_1664 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2046/3532382276_4117198b33_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1664" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3532383308/" title="IMG_1667 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3104/3532383308_ef497d4d77_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1667" /></a> Crank <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3531575271/" title="IMG_1689 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2266/3531575271_c91f38911f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1689" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3532393432/" title="IMG_1690 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2193/3532393432_23321a1733_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_1690" /></a>

Carl.....You're dead on with everything you just said, and Mike you are too....I know the seller and he's certainly reputable. Just wish it was a 4-speed! Can you imagine what it would cost to restore one to this condition?

I just bought a dozen from my local dealer......about $18.00 a piece.

Isky will regrind your existing cam to 3 stages........The advantage is you're using the Japanese compatable metals.You will need springs,retainers.lash pads and new Nissan rockers. www.iskycams.com

Zoom! Zoom!

Spray bars are superior to interior oiled cams! They do a better job of oiling your cam.

Do the entire valve job......If you must pull the head anyway it makes sense. More problems have been caused by grounding the starter.....That's why you should always disconnect the battery when doing engine work.

The dogleg repair by Chuck is just amazing.....he removed each piece of the good dogleg and spot welded it piece by piece onto the car.....just like new with "0" rust! The last picture of the green 72 I think is my all-time favorite picture. Chuck should be shooting paint soon, but he works at his own pace. He's a true artist! Brandon's new camera is just amazing.

Robin.....There's a driver side wheel arch on ebay right now....item # 110374809288 with 23 hours remaining. Buy it now for $52.00. Guy

Carl.......If you deck the block, you would still have to shim the cam....right? I'd like to avoid that. How much can you safely bore and what kind of compression gain could you expect with a larger overbore? Where can you find oversize pistons? Thanks Guy

One further question......I just purchased an F54 block with a (peanut) P-79 head (everyone needs a couple spare engines) that I'm gonna try to build some performance into. I'm not going to shave the head. What size overbore can you find pistons for....where can you find them.....and what else can you do (if anything) to pick up some "pop" in performance. I'm going to use an Isky stage 1 cam in my build. Thanks Guy