Diseazd

Boring out the L24 .060 TO .080 over would be a better solution (IMO).

The L28 P79 and P90 head has a larger combustion chamber than the L24 head. The stock compression ratio with the f54 block and P79 or P90 head and flat-tops is just south of 8.5 to 1. The pin height of the L28 is lower which means your piston would come up short of your block deck (5mm?). Your C/R in that engine would seem to me to be awfully low.......It may work with a turbo, but I've never heard of anyone doing it. There must be a reason. All IMO.

White smoke is H2O........Usually doesn't happen till engine warms up. Start the car check for smoke at idle.....if it gets worse after thermostat opens and car is at operating temp it could be a leak. Aluminum Z heads (40 years old )can be corroded around water passages. Eliminate one thing at at time. If it smokes right away I agree with Andy. If it smokes all the time I agree with Dave.

Dave....Sounds like it could be the rear seal. Is the oil coming from the weep hole where the tranny bolts to the rear engine plate? If so, it could be the rear seal. If they set the rear seal in the old seal groove it can leak. Guy

MSA sells em for $65.00.

Why don't you do a thread Mitchell........Would love to see it. Guy

Strip it with aircraft stipper, wet sand it smooth with 400 grit, then shoot it with acid etching primer followed by Dupli-Color chevrolet orange. The smoother the prep.....the better the results! Add the stickers and run it.

Anyone in the VA-Carolina-MD area looking for knowlegeable machine work for their stock or performance Z engines? Citizen's Macine shop in Highland Springs, Virginia (Richmond) really knows the L series engine!!! Guy

Mask off the lid seal before painting.....check with Bruce at Ztherapy for gaskets.

Probably was a sticking valve. Didn't know how to act with fresh oil!

Let me get this stright. You didn't have any sign of this noise before you changed oil......right? You didn't change or touch anything else (however insignificant) except the oil filter......right?

Makes me want to call Bruce and order a set for the mantle!

I send my items out, but the more sanding, blasting or grinding (anything abrasive) I do before dropping them off..... the worse the result. My secret is degrease the items first, then submerse in Muriatic acid for 3-5 minutes. Don't laugh till you try it! The result is awesome, but the acid doesn't remove grease. At $5.00 a gallon......it's cheap and almost O effort.

What was his method for installing steering rack bushings?

Thanks everyone for your ideas......when one of my engines doesn't run perfect I can't sleep at night. I slept great last night!

Problem solved! The aftermarket crank bolt sold by MSA has a drop down on the washer that sets in the stock damper far enough to bottom out on the crank nose before the worm gear, crank sprocket, and slinger snug-up. This allows everything to be slightly loose! This eventually will wallow out the woodruff and could ruin your crank. It makes a noise that transmits up through the chain and sounds like a valve train noise. A $2.00 washer has ruined my life for the last 6 months. The washer needs to milled to work on that combo. Hope this prevents this from happening to anyone else! Guy

Anyone buying the aftermarket crank bolt from MSA needs to pay attention. I built a new modified L28 motor several months back. Everything new....everthing including the heavy duty crank bolt! It was shaved and shimmed, Isky Stage III.....no expense spared. It ran beautiful with some nice gitty-up. One problem.....between 1600 and 3000 rpm it had a chain type noise. I pulled the new engine down to try to find the problem......the crank sprocket had loosened the woodruff key. No problem, must be a bad crank since all is new. New Nissan crank pulley, new bronze worm gear, seals etc. etc. So I installed a new crank.....Everything new....new Nissan crank pulley, new heavy duty crank pulley bolt etc. Rebuilt the bottom end with all new bearings, crank etc. Noise is still there. Conclusion....talked with my good friend Todd Wagner at Tidewater Z. He explained that there is a small amount of play in the crank pulley but when you torque up the crank damper, everything locks up(crank sprocket, worm gear, slinger etc.). I took in this info to Riley at Lynchburg Nissan (Riley really knows Z's) and viola'.....he asked if I was running the after-market bolt with the stock damper. There is a machined drop down on the large washer that bottoms against the crank nose before things lock-up. If anyone is using the stock damper and large washer, it needs to be machined down to prevent interference with the crank nose!!!! Hope this helps everyone avoid the hair pulling experience I've experienced. A $2.00 washer has driven me crazy!!!!! Guy

How much is he asking?

I certainly concur with you Arnie......It's a near perfect match!

Right above the bar code it says "De 1620 Chevrolet Orange"

John.....It's Dupli-color Engine Enamel-Ceramic.....dyno heat tested to 500 degrees. They don't list a code number, but there were 2 orange caps and I just bought one of each to test. The match is perfect, the quality is outstanding and the unit turned out beautiful. I bought mine at NAPA. I'll try to get Brandon(Five and Dime) to post a picture as I am computer illiterate. Guy

Dupli-color has a can of off the shelf spray paint that matches it perfect.

We assembled the new Bend-Pak 4 post lift this weekend. Next....Wednesday the contractors are coming in to raise an 8 foot section above the lift so we can take her all the way up. We'll be able to get one of the 240 Z's under the silver 300ZX. There's another garage attached to this one with the white 70 and the lime 72 240's. This garage will end up with the silver 90 the Safari Gold 71 and the silver 73.

You need to push the nozzle all the way back up or your engine will exhibit the characteristics you just described.

Yes I've seen a number of pics of Frank's Texas car.....It's beautful. I asked him to post on this forum re his paint and he did. Zedyone K has more pictures of this awesome car.