zKars

No washers ever seen, even on a couple of early E31 heads. Part 21 is also marked as the head bolt washers. Head bolts are 10mm, cam tower bolts are 8, so no way they would work. Must be a drawing error.

They are 20 x 1.5 thread pitch. Same on 70-83 stub axles regardless of splines.

I have a nice set of 40 DCOE triple webers with a Cannon manifold and linkage for sale. Available after another successful SU conversion. Very clean inside and out, very low mileage. Manifold freshly blasted, cleaned and painted. Linkage arms replaced with great quality arms from Speedway motors. All hardware. Only problem is one broken mounting insulator (see pic) that will need to be replaced. All hardware, every nut bolt screw and insulator oring. Jetting : Chokes 4.5, Mains 135, Air 180, Aux 50F11, Em. tubes F11, Pump jet is 60. Chokes are snap in style. No air horns required or included. Oh yeah, and three thin K&N air filters as well. Freshly cleaned and oiled with genuine K&N products by yours truly. Chrome is great! Asking $1000. Shipping to be paid by buyer. Let me know if you have any questions.

Well I can't test my new cassette deck unless someone brings me a cassette (no Kiddy tapes please), so I've got time to chime in on this.. Please everyone remember that float bowl levels while the engine is RUNNING is what is important. The static level while the engine is off is determined by when the float valve decides to close as the bowl fills. In the running case, there is a steady or perhaps some open/close cycling of the float valve as fuel is drawn out the bottom and comes in the top to meet demand of what's leaving. The fuel level in the jet tube is always at the top of the bridge during running, that's how fuel gets to the air rushing in. Or the other way, the pressure drop due to air rushing over the bridge draws the fuel into the air stream from the jet tube. HOW MUCH fuel the engine gets is just the position of the needle in the jet. So in my humble opinion, while running, The bowl level just needs to be such that enough fuel is available to keep supplying the demand of the current pressure drop.. It's exact level, or matching level in both bowls isn't really that important. As long as the flowrate into the bowl is always higher than the rate exiting, the car runs just fine. Now I'd love to be proven wrong. Someone set the floats perfect to spec, go drive and record AFR's across some operating range and note performance, then set the front float down 2mm and back one up 2mm and see if anything changes. The only thing that changes is the small difference in back pressure generated from the height difference of the column of fuel in the jet tube verses the bowl level. If both level differences in each carb aren't the 'same', then there is a teeny weeny flowrate difference as fuel flows up the jet tube. Is this difference enough to affect performance? I doubt it. But then again I only know how to calculate flowrates in oil wells...... Lets see, about 8.5 kpa pressure change per meter of height for gas, so a 2mm difference is about .00004 kpa, so... ARGHHHH I'm retired.... I'm not doing this

No polarity. Either way is just fine.

Carefull soldering new wires back on! I melted the innards of a couple trying too hard. Super clean the tabs, bit of flux, hot iron for just as long as need to get a dot of solder to stick. Cool and do the other. Tin wires, then quickly melt the tinned wire to each terminal. The original wires are squeezed into a slot in those tabs with no solder for this reason I think. New ones are on rockauto pretty cheap anyway I think

I recently traded a pretty nice dash from a 73 240z (and other goodies) in exchange for a nice L28 engine I had laying around. A local friend is building up his 73 and had several items he scavenged over the past few years he no longer needed, so naturally they had to come live at my house. He jokingly mentioned there was a cassette player in the glove box. Yeah, some POS I'm sure.... I didn't actually look at it for several days. Just popped the glove box today, Nearly dropped my drawers! It even has a Datsun part number!! 99993 00044 Don't know if it works yet. Have to find a cassette somewhere! WHY did I throw them all out 10 years ago! Arggggghhhhh

I've seen the responses you've gotten on hybridz for these. If those folks are helping you, I'll put mine back on the shelf.

I think I can scratch up a couple of those and squeeze them in an envelope bound for Switzerland. Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and we'll take from there.

The use of adhesives is now almost SOP in body shops. Many newer OEM's FORBID welding due to crazy alloy mixes in the steels that guarentee accelerated corrosion and mad customers. Glue Rules! You make a good point about checking compatibility of the epoxies used with oil based rust preventative coatings. Hate to eat the stuff up! Epoxy's tend to be pretty inert once cured, but it's definitely worth checking

Me too. I spent a fair bit of time cleaning/wiping and scotchBriting the inside of the hood by hand and never noticed any lumpy bumpy's.. I'll try that again now.

So the 71 I'm worling on finally made it to the body shop. Now I can work on other projects. It had been previously painted with who knows what kind of industrial flat white. The shop is stripping it. I know it had "some" hail damage, but look what showed up after stripping. Holy chicken pocks batman! Maybe I just go with the cheetah theme.... Kudo's so far to the new body shop I'm trying this time around. Wally and the gang at AutoComplete Calgary. If this job goes as promised I agreed to spread to word to others in the area. Here is their first installment. They are also doing a bit of rust repair for me, the two dog legs and the hatch/latch panel. I brought them patch panels. They are using adhesives instead of welding on the dog leg work. MUCH better for long term rust-through protection. I plan on flooding the rock and dog leg internal areas with Rust Check or equivalent after paint as well. Staying 904 white with blue interior. Unless someone wants it after its done, then let me know your color choice soon

Now what on that car could possibly worth having or saving?. Est Retail Val of $5K ???? Maybe as lawn art, but really?.

I agree. How about It now be known as the "T/G Ring" regulator fix.

In fact I have several issues; National Geographic, GRM, Z Sport Mag.... This may also explain why I am no longer allowed any mind altering substances other than exhaust fumes.

That plan has a few cracks in it though...

Got one of those new fangled dash cams.

Nice find! I need a set of blue as well. Thanks!

Late consoles mount differently than early ones. Possible, but not "bolt on". Plus it's just wrong....

There is documented evidence on hybridz.org, I know it's been discussed, mostly around the issue of time mark wander showing that the two halves had shifted due to that rubber stuff failure or bonding release. Can't remember ever seeing a picture of one that came apart though. True failures are "rare" I believe. If you have doubt about yours or want to do something about it, rhere is an outfit in the US (damper doctor I believe) that will replace that elostomer material with new. I had one done years ago. Quite reasonable.

You must be congratulated for your eloquent response. What he said...

Let us review the correct way to install these components. That nut, nylock or otherwise, gets tighted to, yes, a well advertised torque spec, BUT there is an underlying assumption. That those big surrounding washers (assuming you've put them on the right way around) must FIRST contact the underlying (my new favorite word) central tube pipe thingy... THEN the nut gets torqued. If you get your butt totally fooled by squeezing mushy or too stiff poly-whatever-thylene (while trying to make things "better"), or have the assembly all out-of-alignment while you do it, and torque that nut to 50 and think your golden, well, then you may very well get into the situations above... Just saying...

Yeah, what the hell? I thought all Datsun hawkers put their name and address on Craigslist so we can totally play Russian spy and see what they're hiding under the deck, right?

Thanks 73! Carb and air cleaner on the way today. Manifold now available alone. I'll sandblast it into like-new perfection as a promo. Pics of the pretty manifold by itself added in first post Feb 28 2016

The 123 system neither uses or does not use a ballast resistor. It requires between 2 and 3 ohms of primary coil resistance. So if you buy a 1 ohm coil, you have to add a 1 or 2 ohm ballast resistor in line with the +side of the coil to get to the 2-3 ohm target. If you buy a 3 ohm coil, then you skip the ballast resistor... Kapeesh? Okay one more thing to add. Having too little resistance just makes the coil and/or internal transistor switch burn out way before you hoped it would. It's all an operating current hence heat issue. If you HAVE to buy a 0.8 ohm MSD coil on the road somewhere due to a failure, don't sweat it. It will work just fine for weeks. Just don't leave it any longer than you have to. It's not an instant death sentence