Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About jl240z

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Naples, FL

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks guys. I will have to agree about the zerk fitting. I guess if my old z bearings lasted as long as they did with no added grease the new ones should out last me and any mileage I will put on the car. A good hi speed moly should do the trick. Also thanks for the info on the distance pieces I will look for the stamped mark and see what I have. Thanks
  2. While on the stub axel subject, I have another question. I wound up with two sets of distance pieces that live inside the rear hub between the bearings. One set is slightly shorter than the other and loosely fits over the axel the other may be a press fit but I an not sure. The question is does anyone know if the 280zx 27 spline stub axels have washer spacers on each end of the distance piece like the 240z? My old pre microfiche parts book shows the washers for 70-73 z but I don't have a detailed parts book for a 280. I tried to keep all the parts together when I pulled the axles but I may have lost them if they did exist at the time . I think once the companion flange is torqued to specs it jams the distance piece between the center races of the two bearings so any exess space would need to be filled with added spacers. Also when replacing the bearings the book says to stuff the housing full of grease. Does anyone think it would be overkill to drill and tap the housing for a grease fitting while I have it out? I had bought new axel bearings for the 240 many years ago but never installed them. They appear to be the same dimensionally as the ones off the 280 27 spline piece. New bearings have more than doubled in price so I would really like to use them as they were made in Japan back then. Any comments to any of this will be appreciated.
  3. I checked the search feature but not much came up. Anybody here do the install for this? Their latest version has 3 pieces and a bunch of bolts. Very nice quality anodized parts. No instructions so I asked and they sent some nice pictures but they appear to be for an earlier version with everything mounted underneath the strut towers. The top billet piece has all the hash marks for indexing where the settings are but if it goes underneath like the pics you cant see them. I am waiting on a clarification from them but thot I would see if anyone on here has done an install. I chose bolt in because I didn't want to weld in that area of the car, especially on the rear ones inside the car. Being a bit of a clutz sometimes I didn't want to risk ruining the car or burning it to the ground. I checked utube and there isn't any Z specific videos on the subject. Any tips or help will be appreciated. Thanks P.S. Just heard back from 3T. He said that the camber plates need to be under the tower tops or I cant mount the strut tower braces I also bought from them. Good to know but seems a shame to hide most of the nice looking billet. I still wouldn't mind hearing from anyone who has done the install as its nice to know any provblems that may occur.
  4. I guess it comes down to whether you want to weld or bolt in. AZC coil overs are a kit that requires cutting and welding on the struts and towers. A lot of people have gone that route. I chose 3T bolt in because I cant weld worth a **** and didn't want to risk burning my car to the ground or a suspension failure due to me. I have bought a lot of stuff from Dave and he has been around for 25+ years and done a lot of development on the stuff he makes and sells for z cars. 3T also has a good rep. My rear coil over set came today and are beautifully made. The fronts are being built. Mixing the two may not be a good idea. 3T uses koni shocks and Dave uses his own brand ()but really massive) so you probly would have issues with adjusting them. Either company is a good choice and you cant really go wrong.
  5. Hello all, ba follow up on the stub axel thread repair. I tried the file repair and touch up for the damaged threads and got nowhere. it was probly me or my crummy file. So I went on ebay and for $10.95 delivered to my door I got a 20mm thread repair die. it came in 3days and it took all of 10 minutes to dd both stub axels. Best $ spent and a real time saving and anti frustration device. Sometimes just having the right tool pays for itself in one use and in this case it was a bargain. On to the next task.
  6. Thanks, I will check it out. I am reading all the other postings on the stub axels. I too noticed the difference in the nuts. The zx turbo one has a slightly thinner base but the base is larger in diameter. Since I have them ill take the advice and try and clean up the boggered up threads before I buy the die and see how they thread onto the stub axels. Guys thanks for all the info so far its been a lot of help
  7. Thanks, I am going to keep trying to contact the Negun Co. Ltd. They may be a good source for other stuff besides LSD parts. What would I give for a new LD28 crank that I could afford. Some guy on ebay had a used one and wanted $2000 for it!! They must be available somewhere in Japan. They sell a lot of diesel stuff world wide and I heard it was a common engine in fork lifts and stuff like that. The sad tale is I had one for a long time and I sold it when I thot I would never redo my Z let alone build a stroker. I think I paid less than $100 for it and didn't sell it for much more. It was years ago but I am still kicking myself over that one.
  8. I did place the ccmpanion flange of the 280z over the stub axle of the turbo and there is a very visable difference showing how much smaller the 25 spline is. I don't think I will have to worry about breaking anything but stuff happens sometimes. It is probly more likely to break something with the limited slip I would think. Any advantage to save me when I screw up is nice, Notice I said when, not if? I wonder if in addition to torqueing to the correct ft. lbs, if liberal red lock tight is enough instead of staking the nut. I can reuse the nuts off the turbo but they don't have a lip to stake at the top like the 280z nuts had. It is probly smart money to buy new ones and I would have already if I could find then. Anybody know a vendor besides Nissan who sells the right nuts? unsalted of courss
  9. Thanks, I will start shopping for one tonite. I am waiting for my coilovers from technotoy so I want to be ready to put the rears together when they get here. Thanks again
  10. I dont know if i should ask this on a different forum but I am trying here first. If i am wrong please direct me to the right forum. When I got the 27 spline 280z stub axles, in spite of my best and some what limited efforts, I damaged the top threads. I want to buy a die to chase the threads for the new nuts. I don't know what size to get. I tried the search feature, and we all know how much fun that is, but nothing came up that helps. I tried two places on line that sell the nuts and got two different answers. The size is supposed to be the same for 240-280 series. Anybody know or have a link to where the info is? I did get the stub axels and cv shafts out of a 280zx turbo but they are only 25 splines and the nuts weren't even staked. I wonder why Nissan put the so called weaker splined axels on a car that was supposed to have more power than the std 280zx? Anyway I got the right stub axels and am going with the CV conversion kit from Futofab (wolf racing) so I am gonna have a surplus pile of stuff to sell at the end of the project, whenever that is. They said their kit has been improved and upgraded so this is gonna be a good thing. Thanks for any help
  11. Thanks I will save the part number. I haven't looked at the stubs I have for a long time so I don't remember if they are on it or not. I also will be interested on how it works out for you. This is something I have wanted to do for a long time. I bought my car brand new in 1971 when I was stationed on Okinawa and have had it ever since. Its been parked for about 12+ years. So its time to get busy. I bought the R200 LSD from Dave at Arizona Z car back when he was still getting them from Japan. I never installed it because of the 4.67 gear and I only had the stock 4 speed. So it has been sitting on my shelf for over 16 years. I still have time to decide clutch type or OBX gear type. The R200 long nose I just got with the 3.91 gear may not have come out of a z car as it is about an inch longer and has a sensor of some type on the nose. I will just remove it as since I am putting in the T5 out of a turbo I have to get a new drive shaft anyway. This is a good opportunity to get an alum drive shaft. Either way I should be OK as I doubt that I will ever see a track. But if life has ever taught me something its "never say never" Meanwhile I will be lurking and watching. Later
  12. When I saw the date on the post I didn't know it my post would go thru. I am new to the site. I had joined ZCar.com almost about the time it was created back in the '70s, but if Im not logged in often enough it wont let me log back on and it takes awhile for the admistrators t get me back on. So I found this site and decided to try it. I have had my "71 since I bought it brand new when I was stationed on Okinawa in the Air Force. I have had it ever since and done different things with it. It has been sitting for over 12 years and I finally decided to upgrade and use it again. When you rebuilt your clutch type LSD, did you have to do anything special with the clutch pac's? Or did you just replacer the old disks with new ones.. I probly should just use what I have for now. The bearings all look good but I don't know how to judge the clutch disks. I know the gear type units are supposed to be better but I think they raced with this type back in the day and they were ok. I am bleeding buks with all the stuff I want to do and using this diff may be what I should do for now.
  13. I am looking at the OBX option as well. Rich Bryant,( rich_bryant_is@yahoo.com), sells the upgrade kit for $34. The unit had a lot of bad press and failures early on but the kit seems to fix it. He has a web page that describes how to do it step by step. The price for the diff on ebay is $415-$479. It sounds to good to be true but it may be worth a shot with the kit. I have a R200 LSD clutch type as well, but it has a 4.67 in it. I bought a 3.91 open diff so I could put the LSD into it. I found a company in Japan, Negun Co. LTD, that sells part for it so i can replace all the clutch disc parts, but i cant get on the site. Something about computer problems, theirs or mine and i get kicked off it before i can inquire. I did see one page that said the clutch disc set for one side was $27. They had other kits that may have included bearings and seals, but i couldn't get on the site. I think i hat ill write them and see if they will email me back so i can do it that way. Anyway in case you didn't already know i am passing it on, I may just order one of the diffs and a kit and see what happens. Good luck
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.