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carcrazyken

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About carcrazyken

  • Rank
    Active Member

Contact

  • Map Location
    Mobile al
  • Occupation
    retired

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About my Cars
    1972 TransAm 1973 cuda 1967 gtx 1965 mustang fastback 1972 340 Demon 1970 gto judge and of course 1976 280z 4 speed car

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  1. i will take a set with the clips let me know how to pay thanks Ken
  2. Has anyone used the silvermine bolt in camber plates/lowering kit? Thinking about trying them as they are supposed to lower car 1 and1/2 inches without affecting spring travel with a stock suspension. Thanks Ken
  3. If my memory serves me correctly I got the adjuster brackets from summit and welded the flat plate that mounts to the block on to the adjuster brackets. It was not that hard to do but time consuming. I made the bracket several years ago. It looks very close to yours Freez74
  4. I used the same set up on my 280 and it works like a champ
  5. Anybody heard about a production date or a place to inquire?
  6. Thanks for the info I will be on the lookout for the new door cards. Please post again if you get any news on these, Ken
  7. Where did you purchase the Precision kit? Thanks Ken
  8. #22 is on the engine side and #25 is on the converter side
  9. I would be happy to post some measurements of the flexplate . i will do it tomorrow as I am at home and the car is at my shop. I have the big washer towards the engine and the smaller washer like spacer towards the converter. If I flip the flex plate over the teeth rub the block
  10. I pushed the transmission in by hand it bottomed out on the block pretty easy. My new question is how sure are you about the 1/8" gap between converter and flywheel? i would think that they would touch when the converter was bottomed out on the flywheel so as not to bow the flexplate to the converter
  11. I just pulled the transmission again. I pulled the converter from the bell housing and put it directly on the flex plate. there is still a gap of about 1/8" between the converter mounting pads and the flex plate after the converter is bottomed out. That cannot be right . Anyone have any other suggestions? The only thing I can think of is to shim the converter
  12. I appreciate the help, Zed Head the "A" distance on my transmission is 15/16 which is just a little more than the FSM says . I have had the trans out 4 times now and I still have 1/2 ' between the flex plate and the torque converter. The converter bolts are about 5/16 long . The guy who built my transmission said not to pull the converter more than 1/4" forward so longer bolts are not the answer. The only other thing that seem odd to me is when I turn the crank bolt to align the converter and flex plate holes is that they spin together. I had to remove trans line up holes and then replace tran
  13. I am swapping my manual trans to auto trans in my 1976 280z. I think I have all the parts but I did not pull the auto trans from the donor car so I am not sure of the parts or orientation . My problem is that after installing the trans ,the flex plate and the 2 spacers the torque converter is too far back for the flex plate bolts to reach the torque converter. I put the big spacer to the motor side of the flex plate and the washer looking spacer to the rear side of the flexplate. the flexplate teeth are set back about 1/2" into the bell housing which looks right for starter engagement but the
  14. WTB a good set of 1976 Z door cards. I know these are hard to find. Does anyone know if they repop these? Thanks Ken
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