zKars

That's the way it works here. No classifieds within the forum. Everything is on datsunclassifieds.com. It's owned and run by the admin's here. Its kosher.

The panels are attached from the back, inside the hatch, behind the trim panel that covers the back of the light assemblies. There are about 6-8 8mm nuts to remove from each side, then the lights fall out the back. The black trim is part of the light assembly, you can't pry it off from the outside. removal of the inside trim panel is done by pushing out the center pin of the plastic rivets with an 1/8" punch, then pry out the rivet. Have fun!

I cannot make those for $10 bucks! Excellent find Dave! Order in!

If all else fails, follow the instructions in the factory service manual. (link in my signature below to xenons30.com). It's pretty much a matter of setting the length of the clutch master push rod that's attached to the pedal arm. The stop screw/bumper only adjusts the 'up' resting position of the pedal when your foot is off of it. Do not use this to adjust the clutch free point. Shorten the rod to lower the pedal position where the clutch engages. (lets see, shorter, have to push it further to get same volume to release clutch, so the friction point is now closer to the floor. yeah, I think that's right...) This does assume the clutch and hydraulics are good condition.

Is it not best to check the simpliest things first? I'de be changing that bulb and seeing i that fixes it. The fact that they the rear light on that side works, removes the switch and flasher relay as causes. If it's not the bulb, the check it's socket and wiring connections next.

123Ignition.com has a totally new, fully programmable, standalone dizzy and ignition controller for us. L6 and L4. Two wires to the coil, done.

And lets not forget the newest member to this group of treasured restoration parts suppliers, Datsun 240z rubber grommets & parts nix240z (Steve) from this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/garage-hobbyist/49264-240z-fuel-brake-line-insulator-sets-steering-rack-expansion-reservoir.html

This is way more trouble than it needs to be. I bet you don't have the clip correctly installed on the handle so it cannot spread then snap in place in the groove in the splined shaft. There are several incorrect styles of these clips out there, they are close, but if the shape of the "Waist" and the thickness of the wire is not just right, it makes it dang hard to make it work. The clip has a "waist" like a supermodel, not like a beer belly, ini, not outie. Each side of the waist has to protude into the center of the handle, through the slots in the side of the barrel of the handle. If you can't see these two sides of the wire "waist" protruding into the center, at a distance apart less than the diameter of the splined shaft, then its not on right and won't engage. BTW, these are the correct clips. ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners Kinda pricey at $5.23 for 100, but sometimes you just have to pony up....

Not sure you got the complete picture of how this should work yet. Let's see if I can make it more complete. Put the clip into the slot in the handle, ALL THE WAY into the same position it will be in when snapped onto the splined post on the door. The closed end of the clip will stop right up against the barrel of the handle where it can go no further. You should see both sides of the clip now proturding into the handle barrel (where splinded door reg post will go) evenly and centered from both sides. When you press it in place (whack with flat palm), it will spread and snap into the mating groove in the post. You do you NOT push it down into place AFTER putting the handle onto the post. While this might work, its definitely the hard way. And yes, MAKE SURE the closed part of the clip is facing the handle so you have a prayer of getting it off later with a hook. The rag trick is also good for removing it.

vintageconnections.com has those exact bullet connectors. I think I have seen similar generic crimp on bullet connectors in the auto connector section of any auto parts store too. The "blue" one I think is about the right size. like these http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-BLUE-16-14-GAUGE-BULLET-CONNECTORS-WIRE-TERMINALS-MALE-FEMALE-SPADES-/350977081008

The 123Ignition stuff for Datsun L6 and L4 are now real and available. 123ignition - Nissan L6 Forum - HybridZ This the best of most worlds, short of a fully standalone crank trigger ignition. 100% brand new dizzy, totally programmable ignition timing, OR, a simpler version with 16 predefined timing curves to choose from.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/35247-rear-hatch-emblems-postion-measurements.html the search function above works well. I searched for 'hatch emblem position".

Body Side Molding, Truck Molding, Car Molding, Vinyl Trim

There is a proceedure in the FSM for tightening that nut. You torque it to a spec while spinning the hub then back it off some until the cotter pin can be put through. Being a bit loose generally won't cause noise, but if the bearing is not tight, it will wear quickly and then cause noise. The FSM is availble from the reference link in my sig. Check if the backing plate rubs the brake rotor. It may have been bent during the brake job.

What game? Something special on today?

The BlueSea stuff is theeeee best quality stuff I've ever seen. You know when you turn that big knurled volume knob on a $10,000 stereo amp and it gives you that feeling of quality and richness? Same with the BlueSea stuff. Fabulous. That said the PA box will just fine for what you want. Just put some cleaning maintenance on the spring/summer list of things to do every year. Now if you want water proof, and/or expandable and user configurable, get these http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/fuse-blocks.html The two boxes on the bottom right. The 16 gang splash proof comes with all the individual pins for you to crimp up and configure as you want. AND, as if that's not enough, it's part of a system of snap together blocks. There is a 4-relay block that goes with this system too. Now we're talking DIY electrical and doing it right! http://www.rallylights.com/all/electrical/relay-holders/hl62943-mini-relay-box-4-gang-splashproof.html

Zedy, you got a Mallory part number to share with us, for that pump of yours?

No need to fiddle with the interior baffle. The fitting is threaded into the valve cover. There is a hard sealing compound at the base thats keeping it tight. Just heat it up with a propane torch and it will spin out. Clean it, thread it back in and JB weld it into its new position.

I remember Canadian Tire had a cathoidic protection device for sale a while ago. I found this on their web site. Read the customer review. I think that will answer the question at hand. Canadian Tire - CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings "I bought this device hoping it will help to prolong the life of my new Infinite G35S which already a 4 years old car by now. Two days after I installed this unit, its LED no longer blinks. Exchanged for a new one. 3 weeks later, I found a newly developed rust spot on the surface of the car. Called the owner of this counteract company. He confirmed that the unit will *not* help to prevent the rust from forming. It only delays a few more hours..." Most of the other reviews are equally as negative and some are just hilarious to read. Especially the warranty related ones.

Make someone happy and think outside the North American box....

The BD bumper are being discussed on Hybridz. Pictures and opinions there. Pics of the new Black Dragon Euro/JDM style (no holes) 240Z bumpers they just released. - Body Kits & Paint - HybridZ $777.65 shipped for the pair according to one poster. The SS bumpers from Harrington/VN at $1050-ish for the pair are likely still the better deal since they will never rust and can be straightened or re-polished if ever damaged without the crazy chrome cost. Depends on your personal future value calculation.

I don't have a problem with a Datsun parts addiction. I just do whatever the parts tell me to do. Which is typically something along the lines of "I'm lonely. Get me more friends"....

That does not appear to be the correct hose. Might be for a 280ZX, very similar as you can see, but a different shape to around the power steering pump and to fit the different engine bay shape. The upper horizontal part from the inlet below the fuel pump over to the shunt looks WAY too long. Go shopping for a new hose. I'de be tempted to shorten that upper section and see if it fits better, but you might have to shorten it in the center of the horizontal section to retain that kink at the inlet end. Means a splice tube and two more clamps. Naw, just go get the right hose...

Like kids in a candy store, I swear...

you still have the flex plate adapter on the end of the crank. Remove it (just sitting there) then you will have the correct ID on the crank.