zKars

I may have discovered your initial "Rear too low, front too high" problem after the initial Eibach install. The 6203-001 springs are the fronts, the -002's are the rear... The picture you show in post #1 where the 6303-001 part number is visible on the very very short spring next to the stock rears was the clue. Many many of us have been caught by that little detail in the past. You likely accomplished much the same spring rate by using a shortened rear spring anyway. Someday when you're bored you can switch the Eibachs around and see if you prefer the ride and likely somewhat lower ride height any better. It looks just fine the way it is.

Sorry for the delay there. The ebay fittings you link to are close but not correct. Those have parallel threads (straight) not tapered. you need BSPT not BSPP. Regarding the other question, only the pipe/sensor fittings are BSPT. I'm assuming you don't mean the various bolts that hold things together. THey are standard metric stuff, 6x1, 8x1.25, 10x1.5. This one looks more right. BSPT Male to NPT female. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Meter-2269-1-8-NPT-to-1-8-BSPT-Oil-Pressure-Metric-Adapter-/201055603779?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item2ecfd90c43&vxp=mtr I just searched 1/8 BSPT adaptor, got lots of hits. Autometer makes one. http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessorieslist.aspx?pid=11 Try your local speed shop.

Kacrow76, I believe C.O. and Wade will thank you for this post as it justifies all the effort and thought that went into this excellent discussion. The answers to your questions are, in fact, all explained in the text above. I suggest you re-read and see if additional insight can be gained. You are indeed missing something. One clue; Beauty is in the eye of the beholder....

I've had no luck finding then either. MSA has a Polyurethane "equivalent" that is designed with integral camber ajustment (anybody ever try these?), check these out. Motorsport! Street Camber Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts @ $130. Not bad. As for affordable OEM parts availability, search for 54320-E4100 on ebay, there are a few OEM parts from a three supplies with these in stock for ~$55 a piece. Does your 260 have rear insulators the same short height as the fronts or same taller ones (54320-N3701) as 280's? The fiche seems to indicate 9/74 and later needs the taller ones but check before ordering. Only one ebay seller for the tall ones, at $162CDN.... MSA lists them too, @ $214.95

These appear to be the regular front strut steering bearing that gets sandwiched between the upper spring mount and the strut insulator. Can't imagine they would anything special or actually unique over the usual parts store parts. Who knows though. 54325-21000 Bearing strut mounting is the OEM number and description. For reference and comparison to whatever pricing you're looking at, Rock auto shows them as : BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1013848 {#5151008, 5432521000} Category: Strut Bearing $14.97 or MOOG Part # K9476 $16.89 (Prices are CAD, reduce by ~%10 for USD) They show 543250B000, 5432521000, F3XY18H198A as alternate OEM part numbers

stock sensors will likely not work. Ohm readings hot/cold hi/low pressure won't match the new auto meter ones, at least very very unlikely, would have to compare. Good find on the canadian supplier. Stainless is the reason for the cost. Call them and ask for brass equivalents

None of the above. Primarily BSPT. BSPT to NPT adapters are your friends. Others, me included, have cheated and run NPT taps into those threads and gotten away with it (close, but not exact, 1/8 bspt is 28 tpi while NPT is 27tpi), but if you can find adaptors (McMaster Carr has them in the US, but don't like selling to CDN's... ) then go with them With an adapter in the water temp sender location, (that hole is ~ 1/4NPT) it may space the new sender out quite far. If your sensor is 3/8NPT, then you'll have to bore that hole out anyway, and re-thread. Carefull, those housings crack.

I did it once by using very thin feeler gauges stacked around the perimeter. Still was a royal PITA! Add some heat to soften the cover around the gauge as you jamb it through from the back. No fun no matter what you do.

Now that are, are a bunch of good'ens! yes sir eeee. My favorite is the Rossiz's frost plug replacements, all wired up real purdy. Classic!

This guy apparently just got some Tokico's from Sparktec.com just now. WTB: tokico struts for a 240Z. - Parts Wanted - HybridZ

What are you talking about? It did take a month to do! It just occured over a 6 month period in between doing real work. See what I mean about communication problems? And congrats on the successful arrival at the new digs! Digging life on the coast?

Outstanding! It looks right at home there. Congratulations. I think I can see the reflection of the grass in your gas tank in that shot on page 6! That tells me what the rest of the car looks like up close. Stunning.

In the car restoration business, there is NOTHING more common, and frustrating, than body shop delays. Someday I will understand this issue better and learn how to better control it, or maybe just learn that there are some things you cannot change. Maybe home renovation contractors are worse, but I think they are all suffer from over promise, under deliver, and poor communication of the realities of the business. They are both victims of "you'll never guess what we found when we removed the old paint (body man) / walls (contractor)". Hang in there, it will all turn out great in the end. Patience grasshopper....

That would be no.

And now I have to retract my presumtive statement above. Apparently it's not Mark, but another Z on his way here from Ontario to BC. I tried to put two and two together and got 137. What are the chances of two fresh Z's coming through from Ontario, I mean, come on?!?!?! Now that said, hopefully Mark will be through later in the year, or we'll see ya at the Edmonton Z club show in July. Now, back to your regularily scheduled programming...

A little birdie told me tonight "someone" is coming back from Ontario with a fresh Z and might be passing through Calgary this weekend. Now who could this be? Hmmmm...

They are spring protectors, ie where the hook sits on a metal piece, these protect the metal from wearing and making noise. They is set on the clutch and brake pedal box. Can't think of any on the heater box unless they are tiny. There is a fairly tough spring that controls the vent/no vent flat. Maybe there.

Very cool picture Bart. Where did you find that? and the $10,000 question, who are the other finely dressed gentlemen in the picture?

You do not have a problem, just slightly saggy rear springs. THere is no way you have a 3" difference. Trim front springs to match, but no more than one coil with stock shocks, can't afford to remove much rebound stroke. Make sure you bump stops are in good shape too.

I had one similiar problem with one SU. The float level would not stay where I put it. In playing with it in my hand, I found there seemed to be friction between the ball on the needle valve and the float tang, like the angles were funny. Move the float by hand, and it would jam, but intermittently. In the end, I replaced the needle valve. It worked smoothly after that and I was able to adjust it normally. Worth a shot.

David: Let me first thank you for your service and the service of all the organizers to make this event possible. I don't just say that to suck up. Well, maybe a little I have witnessed what it takes. I will be there. Bringing 3 other Z's full of Z friends. I will review my brain re: my first ZCON in 2012 and see I can recall things that confounded me or could have gone smoother that I can share with you. I can tell you the list will be short.

Tires and wheels and hub caps are easy to swap around, but that sail panel emblem is NOT simple to change. The 70/71 panels that have a "240Z" emblem there,that Jim A. mention do not have a hole behind them like the later ones that have a vent hole into the cabin and a round "Z" emblem like we see on your dad's car. The locating pins on the two kinds don't even line up, so it would not be a swap you would do on a whim. At my age (and your dad's) back in 2011, it wouldn't surprize me that I forgot exactly what year it was when I got my first Z if he hadn't thought about that in a long time. My 113 green color guess is based on that picture may very well be off. The two greens were never offered at the same time, so it would be an important clue. Any other pictures? We all love a good detective story. Every little clue, no matter how small is important. Now if only we had that fancy photo enhancement stuff they have on TV, we could make out a date code on those tires...

Really a touching story, thanks for sharing it. If any group of people can help you find it, its this bunch. Jim is right, it's not a 70, but not a 73 either. Front bumper is not the slightly sticking out version that the 73 got. The 113 Avocado Green Metallic color that it appears to be (old picture and compute variations factored in) is a 72-73 only color, so that seems to narrow it to being a 72. You will need to find the VIN to help with the search from there. Anyone else see any more clues?

I'm thinking your rear end is dragging and your front end is just fine. Side shot picture please and list your tire size.

And just which green is that? 2010 Camaro Synergy green metallic or did you have it custom mixed?