e_racer1999

Members
  • Content Count

    2,212
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

-1 Poor

1 Follower

About e_racer1999

  • Rank
    Biafra for President

Social Sites

  • Website
    http://performancetheory.com

Contact

  • Map Location
    San Diego
  • Occupation
    Store Manager

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    specs on the '72 240Z:

    F54 block L28
    Flattop pistons
    N42 head
    Schnieder Stage IV camshaft/valvetrain (Lift(In/Ex): .495/.495. Duration(In/Ex): 290/290)
    Roundtop SUs
    radiator overflow canister
    MSA 6-1 header
    2.5" alluminized exhaust
    Dynamax super turbo muffler
    All bushings polyurethane
    15/16" (24mm) Interpart front sway bar
    3/4" (19mm) Interpart rear sway bar
    3.7 R200 rear diff
    1979 280ZX 5-speed
    Centerforce II clutch
    15/16" 280ZX brake master cylinder
    toyota 4x4 4-piston front calipers on solid 240z rotors
    optima red top 800CCA battery, rear mounted
    rear mounted battery cu

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Do a fuel pump cut off and put it somewhere inconspicuous. Real black pearl? Nice either way.
  2. As a side note, if you plan on doing any track racing, most sanctioning bodies require a well-marked, rear mounted cut off switch be installed. Run a line from the alternator feed to the switch to make it so the car shuts off when disconnected
  3. Short answer: yes, all 6-cyl mechanical rocker camshafts are interchangeable. Slight difference in lift/duration/profile across years, I believe. I recommend to ALWAYS keep rockers and camshafts together, or have your existing rocker arms resurfaced. If you've never taken a cam/head off of a tension-type OHC engine, find a who has. Trust me when I say some experienced hands to help you out will save you hours of frustration. If the timing chain slips you will be hating life for hours.
  4. If you read my other thread, you'd know that I can't get spark. What's happened since we pulled and put the engine back in: Car will only spark AFTER cranking. Getting +12V @ BOTH sides of the ignition coil. Car is a '73 240Z w/ ZX E12-80 dizzy. We can't take it to a shop because we don't have budget for it (http://sdgrandchallenge.com), but we will buy beer for any soul willing to come to the garage and help us figure this out
  5. Triple checked the plug wires. I tried wiring the E12-80 both ways; no dice. Tried the points dizzy I had, no spark. Did a couple tests with a multimeter, though. found that both sides of the ignition coil are receiving a (+) 12V to both wires that terminate at the coil (?), so I'm thinking there's a short somewhere, unless that's how it's supposed to be
  6. That looks to be a well-executed conversion. To my untrained eye it looks like the Alpha one kit
  7. We had the car running before we pulled the engine to replace a gasket and the cam. Today, after reinstalling, the car won't start. After cranking, it seems like it wants to start for a couple seconds. We pulled a plug and tried to get it to spark (after confirming we had fuel), but it didn't spark until AFTER we let off cranking. I plan on installing a spare points dizzy to see if somehow the ignition module was damaged, but we've done a lot of wire elimination earlier. Basically, the only wires to the interior go to the ignition switch and the tach. Again, the car started with the same setup previously; the only known change was a new gasket and cam. If anyone has any input or ideas, please let me know where to start looking, as electrical is not my forte.
  8. Ah yes, Jackie Chan and his partnership with Mitsu
  9. I have that as one of the 6 that I bookmarked while searching earlier The FSM is identical to the hard copy I have, but there were still some wires that I still wasn't sure about; although now I have some idea where the G & BY wires go to, i'm still not 100% If you wouldn't mind checking that would be AWESOME
  10. Well I'm currently elbows deep in a project with some ***** wiring and I was wondering if someone could help. I basically had to strip down the harness from where I connect to the ignition coil and where the temp sensor goes. I have been using my FSM for my '72 and am hoping that most of my tracing and guessing is correct. Here is what I have so far. The wiring abbreviations will be the same as the FSM standard: Long - Y - Temp sensor G - ? BY - ? B (becomes 2x - Neg coil - Neg dizzy (btw, swapped in an E12-80... I know how to wire that Short - BW - Pos coil from dizzy GW (becomes 2x BW when visible outside the harness) - Tach (?) - Pos coil (?) I'm not completely certain on ANY of these connections, but the ones without the question marks I'm FAIRLY certain of. If anyone knows these or is willing to chop open a wiring harness.... Thanks, Jason
  11. Welcome! I'm in Santee; I'm going to be working with AoK on the San Diego Grassroots Challenge, but I'll be down to help when I can!
  12. I doubt that this eBay ID will remain valid for long; doesn't seem like a long time eBayer. But still, I certainly hope that eBay is informed