beandip

the difference is that the linkage rod that connects the two carberators is too short. If you cannot come up with one from a bone yard or someone on this site get back to me I know a guy that might have one , it's just that he is hard to contact , but let me know . Gary:classic: After thought, I wouldent remove the '73 manifold if were me . There is nothing to gain by making the change. Just strip off all the unneeded stuff . You need to use the spacers from the round tops that are thicker that your old ones. Also the earlier air cleaner box. You can plug the large inlet from the air pump like was said before all that is needed is the vacume line to the brake booster and the carb vacume to the advance on the dist. :classic:

I roll up the windows when it is raining and when I park the car outside. The three way valve will take care of the expansion as it has all along . If you like the stink of stale fuel that is up to you. go for it. Driving around with the windows open is like sticking your head in the sand and disappearing. :stupid: :stupid:

if you have the factory survice manual this is about the most complete source there is .

the '74 260 was the first year for the 2+2 , at least in the US. To answer the question most of the '74s were not the 2+2s. All the 240s are the same . I dont know of the 280s that is a good question. :classic:

I removed the evap tank and eliminated all but the small vent line that runs to the front of the car and the one that has the 90 deg bend that is 5/8" in dia. there is enough room to allow for a gradual 90 and it wont kink if given the right amount of slack. B-killer is right there is a vent line from Nissan that fits this and is pre bent. In fact there is a line for this vary vent that allows to remove the evap tank . This tank was only required in the US . I have the part number if you need it some where , I think they are about $30. from midwestz Chloe knows the number and can get the part. Gary

d-master that will get your hart started going piter pat ! LOLROFL

Don't cut away the rusted metal untill you have the new part in hand so you know how far you can remove the metal. I installed Zedd Findings floors and am most satisfied. I have pictures if you need to see what the new stuff looks like and where it extendes . Do not compromise the integrety of the trans tunnel . This is part of the frame structure and strength of he car. the new floor pans are stronger than the origional and there is a center support under the floor just like the origional. Charley Osborne is the owner of the business and is vary helpful. He sells them to Motorsport and are the best of the two they carry . I had mine TIG welded in and covered the bare metal with POR to prevent rust. All the best to you , Gary

there should be a spacer there , made of a brown plastic material called phenalic, not sure of the spelling, it acts as a insulater and should be about 1/2" thick . If there is material missing and there is a gap and if the car is running ok don't worry about it. the next time you remove the carb take a look and see if the missing material compromises the seal between the manifold and the carb. If not , no harm no foul. enjoy the ride. :classic:

I am with b-killer, if it seems to good to be true , it usually is. Look under the floor mats at the metal floor not the matting and look for rust , look under the floor pans , look under the battery for any rust or bubbling paint . Look also for paint bubbles on the front fenders just infront of the doors down low, and the same just in back of the doors . Another place to look is to open the rear hatch and look at the sill in both corners for rust. Now this engine has a cracked head. Why do you think the owner of the shop wont install the head he is going to give you him self and have the car running and sell it for at least double the ammount?? Do you suppose the has internal problems ? Is the oil full of water from the cracked head ?? if there is how much rust damage is done to the crankshaft and cylinders and other parts ?? Things to think about:classic:

Here in Portland Ore. 91 is selling for $2.52 per. and going up. As the man said lower compression engines do not require the higher octane fuel , as the engine wears the compression lowers . A highly tuned engine with high compression requires the higher octane fuel and some require 100 + . It all comes back to the old saying , If you want to go fast how much do you want to spend. Or something like that. At the dyno they ran an engine on high octane and then on the lower grade, an the engine made more HP on the lower octane fuel . It was a basicly a stock engine with only slight mods.

Now that you have put synthetic oil in the engine , as the man said , and engine that has sludge buildup is likely to have this stuff knocked loose. That and the fact that you dont know how many miles since a rebuild ,or if it has been, you run this engine to even 5 1/2 K vary often and you are going to be driving a gernade. At that high RPM you float a valve from a weak spring and again like the man said you will be picking up the peices.

like 2many said if the bondo is cracked or exposed at all it absorbes moisture and will rust the metal under it. Some "body " men to do quick fix will drill holes to pull the metal back out but not braze the holes before using the filler. You can see the noodles sticking out in the back , if they were not knocked off. Moisture will travel in through them , or the exposed material . I had damage in the back of my Z in the vallance below the L plate , because I noticed a small crack in the paint. I looked up under when I pulled the tank and could see the noodles. When I sanded and chipped off the bondo , I found a patch of rusted metal about the size of a football , thankfully it was surface rust and could be pulled out and cleaned off . Altogether there was about 50 holes that we brazed closed. What Zdreamer said he did is right on. Primer is also porus and will allow moisture to penetrate to the metal . So work on one area at a time and keep it out of the weather.

the spray was for the other stuff not the dynomax

Flat top carb are junk and are nothing but trouble. the dist sound like a dual point dist for a automatic trans. The PO must have changed form a auto to the 5 speed. I suggest either finding a dist for a manual trans single point unit and convert it to a petronox . What I did on my '73 was to buy a '79ZX dist , coil with mounting bracket at the "bone yard'' , be sure to also get the mount that attaches to the engine for the dist, the 240 part wont work. the difference is remarkable how much smoother and better the engine runs. $75.00 with the plug wires and dist cap. . Round top carbs and a earlier air cleaner '71 or '72 works great with the round tops . If you want round tops , let me know and I can help. Gary:classic:

It should, I also have a 280 in my 240 and runing SUs. I bought a set of SMs from Z Therapy but havent tried them yet. Going from a 240 to a 280 , the added CCs will require a little more fuel. The taper is much faster with the SMs , seems to be about the same at idle and at normal Rs but with your foot in it is should come on with the cam. At least this is why I am going to give them a try. I have a color tune so I will be able to see how the cylinders are burning up to 3000 Rpm .:classic:

the rumor has it that you will gain 10 HP with the 36 However I have been watching for years and have not seen any one come up with proof. I would like to see the dyno numbers to back up the claim . It was supposed to only make the difference at the top end at redline. Since I have too much respect for my engine and my car , I just forgot the whole Issue. If it did what the rumor says , it wouldent make any difference to me any way. 30+ year old engine , + red line = gernade. There was a stack of them at the bone yard , I passed.

send a request to justacarguy he is parting out a '73 & '71

those are a great snake , a little on the crankey side . I had a 6' one when I was a teen. We dont have them on the left coast. :classic:

That was a great gift from some one . PAY IT FORWARD. did you see the movie ?

don't put that stuff under the car ! I am using b-quiet , Brown bread on my floors and doors . I bought some simular foil backed stuff from Whitneys and its going on the firewall and tranny tunnel as well as the floors . Foil side up. The brown bread has foil on the up side as will. Did you use the dyno mat on the inside of the doors ? If you want to stick the stuff down , you can use some spray adheasive.

I just finished the swap, but my Z is a '73 . I have a curved transvers link if you need one. I am not positive but I think the '71 has the link you need. I thind it is the '70 that had the stright t-link . I replaced the front diff rubber mount , just because . I bought it ahead of time and the old one it turns out was good . If your half shafts have 4 bolt flanges they will work. I did the ujoints while I was there. I posted before the 280 M bar is mounted with the purched forward unlike the 240. there is a web site that shows all the parts needed and describes the process geocities.com/zgarage.2001/engine.html have a look. Gary:classic:

Brian,I pulled my engine and trans as a unit . one thing protect the slip joint on the tranny end of the drive shaft . dont let be scrached or dinged when you remove it . Come by and see my car and how far I am . Gary:classic:

I agree Chloe is a great sorce . I went with the '79zx ignition at least 3 yrs ago and it works really good . I also have and '73auto , and dont want to change to a manual. I bought the ignition complete with coil ,its mounting bracket ,plug wires and cap ,with the module , everything . $75.00 at the bone yard. If you decide to go this route the one to get come from '79 through 83 but the correct module is found on the '79 and '80 . It is marked with 12 80 on the side. the later ones had one marked 12 94 and will not work properly. The stock tach will work with this set up. and it all runs on 12 volts not 8 , also get the mount that connects the dist to the engine , from the ZX . The 240 part will not work correctly with the new dist. :classic:

You might get the fly wheel and clutch and pressure plate and I think the throw out berring link. from the donnor car . The 2 + 2 used a different size clutch , slightly larger , than the coupe but I dont know what all is involved in the differences., other than the surface area of the clutch is larger. Maby some one here that has done this swap could advise. :classic: