beandip

If the ground on the battery is cleaned and it still has the problem look at the switch for croaded contacts

2 things , you are talking in code. Please include your location on the profile. I can deal with the english , thats no problem. Have you checked the fuel filters ? Are you running SUs or injection ? Is the car equiped with electric fuel pump and mechanical as well ? The "smoke " coming from the carbs could be from a lean condition caused by the filters being clogged . If when started the float bowls were full of fuel the engine might be able to run for a couple of min. before dieing. Gary:classic:

If the seats have good foam , to recover them less than $200.00 . Carpet kit about the same as with the interior + door pannels and head liner. Paint will run to four figures if you want a good job and have all the work done , providing there is no body damage. lack of rust is the important thing here . As for the auto-trans , that is a matter of openion . One thing it seems that the cars with them are the ones that are being found to be in the best shape , because they were not as abused in the past. The '73 has the B tranny and is rebuildable and strong , for a driver. If you have asperations of driving on the track , different story. Gary:classic:

I ate some horse meat , when I was young and we were poor.

Yes especially when the air is cold and at sea level . The air has more mass and the fan blades get a better bite. The blades are made of plastic so they can flex if the air get too dense.

civ104 that is what I was getting to . chill

Is this for real? I have been on that main hiway and it is like the auto bon in germany , SORT OF, but this is scarry having driven there. If it hits a ox cart at speed it will end up looking like a ball of foil.

I am sorry , you havent given enough information. If you are spinning the engine untill it feel like it is " choking" then 1 you are WAY beyound red line or 2 the engine needs a good tune up. Before you turn the engine into a gernade fix the tach. and take it easy . If the speed- O - meter works shift by that . what speed in what gear ? This will give us a clue. :stupid:

How many miles on the rebuilt engine ? If under 1000 miles you should keep the RPM limit to 3 to3500 . After that you should be ok to push it. Just watch the engine temp while break in , at least to 500 miles. Shouldent be a problem after that. This all depends on how tight the engine was set up . I would change the oil after the first 500 miles, filter too. As for any smoke upon decel. , give the engine a chance to brake in and the rings to seat . The worse thing you can do is to run a new engine at high revs if it is tight. Cool your jets a little and enjoy the ride. Both you and your car will live longer.

I just pulled the engine and trans as a unit . then you can do the engine bay while the mill is out. You can clean and paint the rad and the engine. All will be fresh and looking good. :classic:

I guess I am tacky . I dont think you can remove it and save it. I carefully masked it off and you must look vary close to see that it was done . I would like to be able to save the ones on the hood and air cleaner but I am afraid there going away. How cold is it ?? Have a good one, Gary:classic:

send a email to phred , he is a member here . This guy does heads for race z engines .

Carl It's good to see you on the club site , you have so much knowledge to share. Gary

Having your mechanic is a good start if he knows Zcars. As was stated the mileage isn't as important as the rust devils. You negelected to post your location in your profile , its there for a reason. The value of these cares varies greatly depending on the location where you live. What is a piece of junk , parts car , in one area is a rebuildable driver in another. There are club members all over the world that are willing to have a look for you . My friend and I have done this for prospective buyers here in Portland in the past. And saved them time and $ on air fair . We dont charge anything , its for the love of the cars. I would think that there are a few of us that live in your area that would be willing to have a look for you. Gary:classic: Just a thought , fresh paint can be a red flag , BIG TIME , look vary closely under the foor mats at the metal of the floor. Check closely under the battery for any sings of rust. Dont be afraid to pock around under the floors with a screw driver for soft spots in the metal that are covered with undercoating. Look at the post here in the arcives.

The 240s are the same . the 260 has a backup light that is different

nR 240 I am from the us so our cars are some what different . Do you have a vent line that runs to the front of he car from the tank? Does the fuel tank have a small outlet on the tank above the supply and return ports . On our cars there is a small pencil size port coming from the top edge of the tank in this area. If you do have this port and it is blocked off you can run a small line to the front of the car and up the firewall as a vent and maby connect it to a carbon tank or to the air cleaner for fresh air. Then use a NON vented gas cap on the filler neck. You only need a small vent line to supply air to the tank as fuel is removed from the engine. We have a valve mounted in the engine bay that is a one way valve that only allows air in and none out for this function. This is just a thought for you to look into for possabilities. My 2 cts.

There are always some that will cheet there owm mother. seems like this is just one more of them. Why people seem to need to cheat and lie for no reason is beyound me. Fly , it will come back to you .

Snake2 where are you in oregon ? I live in Beaverton if I can help let me know. If the car is all stock you most likely have flat tops and yes they are junk. Send me a email and I might be able to put you on to a set of carbs . I think a guy in Gresham may still have a set he will sell.

do a compression test this will tell you something. I cant imagine anyone puting a competion cam in a tornado . There just too heavy. Check the compression and also look for vacume leaks .

I secound the motion. I agree with all that carl said. I have gathered two extra sets of SUs over the years because I know that as time goes on they will become hard to come by and an affordable price. Especially as the 280s age and the electronics become more of a problem. Geting the video from Tharapy is a great bit of advise. :classic:

It all comes down to three things . Money , HP , and torque. There is no magic about high rpms. Its where the engine builds the HP . You can install a cam in the L-28 and it will make the hp at any RPM you think you need. It all costs money and with high HP , the mileage goes down. If you want a good mileage car to drive on the hiway go back to the stock engine weather it is the 280 or the 240 . I have been gitting 23 mpg with my L-24 . I doubt vary much my built F-54 will come close to that , but it will make a lot more hp. Gary my 2cts

To me it looks like it has too much bulk , like some one else said it looks like a snow plow. I agree that it might look ok on a 280 so the large bumpers could be elininated. Could the white color make it look larger than it really is ? :classic:

If you keep your finger over the spark plug hole and turn the engine over as I said , with a socket wrench , when the piston comes up on compression stroke you will feel the air blowing your finger off the hole. HELLOW