beandip

Thanks for the head's up Gary

Steve , it's been 3 or 4 years back but I weighed my '73 with me 215 lb driver and a half tank of fuel , total it was right at 2600 lbs and about evenly split , the front was about 100 lbs more than the rear. I am sorry I dident write the numbers down. Hope this helps. Gary:classic:

bumpers , emissions stuff thats about it.

I have no idea what they mean unless they are talking about new rings . Send them a email.

Travis , welcome to the club. Yes there are several items that will go into your '73 240 . I am in the process of reassembling my '73 with a 280 ZX engine, and R-200 diff. using the moustash bar from the 280 , notice that the bar will be reversed from how the 240 bar was mounted. The mounting purches faceing oppisite. The brake drums can be used . If you are going to replace the moustash bar's bushings , do not remove the sleve that is in the perch and save the large washers from either car . The bolts that attach the bar to the diff on the R-200 are larger than from the 180 so retreve them from the 280. The half shafts from your 240 will work , keep track which is whtch because they are of different lengths. All the best Gary:classic:

If you are interested there is a great little "gun " that is only $6.00 at harbor freight that works great for shooting the POR into the hidden cavities there product number is P-37346 . When you reseal the POR paint can , use two layers of plastic wrap between the lid and the can. Other wise if the paint gets on the two metal surfaces and cures the lid is on permanetly. Your filter mask will not vary likely protect you completely from Diisocyanate , check the label and use good ventellation. My next door neighbor is a kidney specialest and he advised me to drink plenty of fluids after using this stuff and your body will pass it off with no problem . I wear latex gloves also , this paint loves skin if it is allowed to dry on the skin it is permanent untill it wears off. If you want any more info. that I might be able to pass on , let me know. By the way escanlon and I are working on the car together. Gary

I have covered the under side of my 240 from the front to where the floor turns up at the diff, I did the floor pans in the foot wells . I sprayed in side the rockers and doglegs , painted the back side of the fenders and the wheel side of the inner fender , front only . I shot por all inside the back fender area from the doglegs up around the fender / wheel area and where the fuel vapor tank was and across the hatch lower pannel and the cavity where the antenna is located. I also painted the spair tire well and shot inside the doors the front suspention is painted and the total fuel tank. I used 2 & 1/3 qts. of gloss POR . About 1/2 gal of Mariene clean and about the same of the Metal ready. IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED to paint the exterior surfaces that will later be painted with the top coat , color of the car. I however did use the por paint in some areas of the engine bay . I have removed the batt . tray support and cleaned up the surface rust and PORed the whole area and any bare metal any where on the car except the out side . I used Tie-coat primer on the engine bay so the finish will bond . I recommend that you buy no larger than qts. of the paint , it will save you $ in the long run. It is exreemly important to follow the directions for preping the metal. USE THE PROPER MASK AND IN A WELL VENTED AREA !!! Do not breathe any more fumes than necessary . If the surface is not preped properly the paint WILL NOT STICK AT ALL ! Once the POR is cured nothing will touch it , not acetone or any thinner. Clean up of skin and tools , I use laquer thinner but before it is dry. If I can help send me a email. Gary :classic:

I dont know , but I just rented a cherry picker type and pulled the engine and trans as a unit no problem. I would guess 500 lbs. would be close. I am sure some one will come up with the actual weight. :classic:

A car that was just parked , and has been setting that long will need a complete tear down. For one thing the fuel tank must be pulled, there is no way that it could have survived not either rusting or varnishing . The oil in the engine will long ago turned to varnish and sludge . If it were to start it wont run for long with out clogging oil passages and burning out some of the bearings. The engine may be good but just must be pulled apart and tanked. All the wheel cylinders will be rusted and the fluid turned to jelly. The rubber break lines rotted or at the least unsafe. This could be a real find though . It is just going to be a lot of work the cooling systime will need a complete go through including the heater core . All water hoses and drive belts . At the least the diff and manual trans will need a flush and refill. If possable find out why the car was lift parked in the first place . Bad engine , clutch what ???? There must be a reason they stopped driving it in the first place. If the engine is a problem just pull it and replace it . Drop in a 280 there easy to find. The best of luck Gary

I am not a turbo guy , but I know that they do have low compression , if they are all consistant that is a big plus . At 130 with a turbo ? I think that would be way too high. I deferr to the turbo drivers on this one . All being the same is a vary good sign .:classic:

What ever floats your boat.:stupid: :stupid:

I also want to welcome you to this Z infected bunch of us. Your statement in the beginning stated that you want to restore this car. Restoration of this car would be a extremly costly process. If you ment that you want a daily driver and not a show car , this is another matter. With the availability of Zs in your area I would think you could find a car with far less problems. I just replaced the floor pan on one side of my Z and did all the prep and removed the old damaged one .I fitted in the new one and got a good price for the tig welding. There was some small repair to the driver side floor and a little on the battery area. I am into just this repair for almost $1000. I have no other rust that is in need of repairs only prevention. The one thing that you show in the picture will require you to most likely buy another car for parts, and then you will need to remove a major part of the frame and on both cars then have some one fit and weld in the parts . This will likely run 3K. or close to it. What does the doglegs look like and the other frame rail . We havent addressed the rear hatch . For a restoration the roof must be brought back to stock. Or replaced . $$$ The car will need to be painted , another grand do you see where were going here. I am just being the devel's advocate here . But these are the facts you may have a parts car and be money ahead to find rust free car to work with. If you can do the welding your self and have plenty of space and time this is a different matter or if you have vary deep pockets . There is no doubt it can be done . Be careful you can end up with ten thousand it a five thousand dollar car.

I paid $500.00 for a 82ZX non turbo complete with headers and alternater , no dist. It has a aftermarket cam and headwork and 35,000 miles on the rebuild. I dident want the injection and gave it away as well as the cluch and pressure plate to a local Z driver. This was about a year ago . I dont know what a turbo is worth but if it is good and the engine is sound , it sounds about right. Did you look at the oil on the dip stick to see if it was tar or clean were you able to hear it run or take a compression check ? :classic:

that isn't supprising for a stock L-24 with miles on it . Has the engine ever been rebuilt? Has the head ever been off and had the valves done ? Dont look at the HP figures on the tag in the engine bay , they are gross HP not either of what you measured. They were taken on a dyno with nothing connected to it to sap the HP . No alternater , or fan I think they even removed the water pump. and remember this was a new engine in the best tune. Not reality. So what you have at the flywheel really is not bad.

the sun roof is NOT a stock item. What are you thinking you are going to use this car for ? 200 lbs is nothing for a driver. If you want a car for the drag strip that is another thing. You better check on the state regs before you start striping the smog stuff.

I bought mine from Charlie O and they were less than $300. incl. the freight Gary

Brandon , welcome aboard, I agree check the ujoints , some times it is hard to tell on the half shafts but get the rear end in the air and check for any play . While you are at it when you lift the rear end do it from the differential and see if it moves upward . There should be no slack there if so yes the mount is shot. Does the car clunk when you shift . Do check the drive shaft ujoints as well . There are some years of Zs that the drive shaft ujoints cannot be replaced but I cant remember which years that is. Some one here will let us know . The diff mount isn't a big job , something to do on a weekend .All the best form Oregon , Gary by the way what is a DSM??

Rust is the #1 factor and the most costly to repair. You are correct the sun roof does take away some value . However if you are wanting a driver pick the one with the fewer repairs that are needed . As Zrush said check the roof for leaks , What are your plans for the secound car , use it for parts ? :classic:

Sorry , I cannot help you . I know nothing about injection and turbos . I am sure there are members that can help. SanDiego beautiful place been there many times. Gary:classic:

The days of being able to easly and cheeply "redoing " not restoring these cars has passed, pritty much. Three to four years ago yes. Parts have gotten spendy. Door gaskets and windshield and hatch will run about $200. The little stuff will eat your bank account alive. If prepaired to deal with this , welcome to the infected among us. My advise is to find the most rust free and complete car you can find . You will pay more for it but in the long run believe me you will be money ahead. Now parts cars are going for what a driver sold for 3 yrs ago. :classic:

Charlie , if the car is to be stored inside this is one thing, if out side that is another. 5 months is not that long. When I winterise my inboard V-8 I fill the fuel tank, this keeps the tank from moisture. I change the oil and change the filter after running the engine to normal driving temp. I then start it again and run it to lube all the bearings with the fresh oil , shut it off , pull the coil wire , pull the plugs and squirt some oil in the plug holes and reinstall the plugs . with the coil wire still disconnected turn the engine over a few times. This will coat the cylinders with oil. pull the battery and wash it down with water and bakeing soda to remove any dirt and crud. This stuff will discharge the batt. then charge the battery and store it in a cool place , I just put mine on the work bench . If you want you can put some stabelizer in the fuel , but 5 mo is really not that long. A year that is a different matter. Putting a rag in the exhaust pipe wont hurt also in the intake of the filter box . If you have a cover that is good as well , keeps the dust off the paint. Now this is for inside a garage.

I doubt that I will see it in Portland , but I will be on the look out . I certainly hope you find her and in good condition. The arse h)&^ most likely were after a sterio or a joy ride . All the best and good luck with the car . let us know when you recover the car. Gary:cry:

Tripples do look cool . There is a guy , Norm that runs 107MPH at 12.8 on pump gas and street tires with a pair of SUs. On a stroker .