kully 560

I will have to check with holley what the regulator is. I did not know the early 260z had a restriction orifice ? do you know where it is located?

I pick up a holley fuel pressure regulator 12-804 and was wondering where to install it, is it better on the supply line or the return line for 4 bolt su carbs. I installed it originally on the supply line but have been reading it might be better on the return line as it might help in cooling the fuel , does it really matter ? thanks

hi jim ,are these rail still for sale ? thanks kully560

hi marty is this still for sale? and is it chrome plated or chrome painted? thanks

ray who use to worked at msa years ago told me about the double stacked spaces for more power , but I never did try that out .

just check the posts it is a carter p60430

I am using a carter pump do not remember the model #. but is in the post by me as I installed it last year. I can tell you it is as quiet as a mouse. the most pressure I can get out of it is 3.47 lbs with a pressure regulator and the 3.47lbs is more than enough for the su carbs.

I am running and have been running a square port header that is jet hot coated on a n47 round port head for years . I did use a gasket I purchased from msa at the time,and I believe it might have been the oem brand. no problems at all with that set up but you will have a problem if you use a squared port head on a round port header !

that might be a good option ,mine are 23 years old and I would like to have a spare also . so with out pulling mine off to check the id , does anybody know the id of the hose ? thanks

I decided to leave well enough alone as from reading the consensus from ever body. but I did retorque my header bolts and intake today as is seems some of the header bolts were a little loose. I also decided to remove the heat shield and paint it with vht aluminum 550 degree paint , It needed it and looks a lot better . thanks for the support from every body great forum!!!!!!!

well you make a point , but why would datsun recommended a cylinder head retorque after a valve adjustment. do you think the dealers back then pulled the head? this is a 2 sided coin ? I guess if I do not remove the bolt and retorque to 60 lbs and nothing happens then nothing gained nothing lost make sense. I would just like to see why they recommended this at every valve adjustment , were they expecting things to get loose?

hi again siteunseen , I was not thinking about removing the bolts, I was just going retorque them . do you think I should remove them and anti-seize ? [I do not want to brake the seal even 1 bolt at a time] and thanks for the bolt sequence !!!

will do , that is a good plan

the only thing in my favor after the rebuild in the late 90s that I have not put 3000 miles on the motor . it comes out in nice weather 1-2 times a month for a 30-40 mile drive only. It is also keep it in a heated garage .so I guess can throw a torque wrench on it and see where it is, if it does not move at 60lbs I will leave it alone. I guess on an old motor and left out side in the weather I would think twice about ,I agree with you on that. I did not know nissan recommends a cylinder head bolt torque after a valve adjustment. this could be a can of worms as I don't think anybody does it .

never did I retorque head bolt after a valve adjustment. I guess tomorrow when the motor cools down I will check the head , intake and header bolts just because it gives me a piece of mind and also would like to see if anything has change.

I also read that 60lbs max?

heu siteunseen , I read in the z car guide .com that after head install the head need to be retorqued 600-1000 miles ans every 12,000 miles for all s30 cars? I rebuilt my motor back in the late 90s and never check the head bolts after ,I did not think I had to but this guide says different!! just checking with everybody what the deal is. thanks

does anybody retorque there cylinder head bolt after a valve adjustment?

I purchased a set of these about 6 weeks ago, it took me 3 tries to set the floats correctly . the car never ran so good, as he states in the instructions to measure up 9/16" and that is the correct setting. my floats were 7/16" up and always had hard starting when it sat for a while, the car runs perfect now. I did the mm measurement also and it was a pita to do blowing in the fuel line while lifting up the float and taking a measurement. it was never right no matter how much I kept playing with the floats . this tool is a must!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! great job randy

check the fuel filter, its a cheap change if the car has been sitting for a long time , might not be getting enough fuel through it. check fuel pump , is it mechanical or been change over to electric? start with the basics make sure you are getting enough fuel first, set carbs to 2-1/2 turns down, see if it starts and runs. if still hard starting your floats might be set to high leaving not enough fuel in the carb bowls.

the mixture is off ! floats need to be set or checked , start with the mixture screws turned down 2 1/2 turns and then balance with a air flow meter. you can try leaning the back carb with turning the mixture screw up but you will still need a air flow meter to balance. a member here sells the float- sync for the carbs on ebay which I bought and is the best tool for the float adjustment I have ever used . set the floats first then the mixture and last balance . there is also a color tune for setting the mixture also which you can buy online.

you do not need the zx module with a msd 6al unit that just creates 2 different signals . wire the zx dissy direct from the 6al unit from the ford plug that comes with the msd to the 2 wires inside the dissy . I am not home,but look up the correct way to splice the color wire in order. I made a small metal plate to blank off the hole on the side of the zx dissy when I removed the nissan module. I could never get my tach working with the tach adaptor. I tried resistors and adaptors also . my z is a early 74 260 car and I mounted a small tack in the car. maybe one day I will looked into that again.

thanks for the info I will order the nissan brand!!

that is great info , so the nissan seals are better than timken and national seals ? I do not care about price of the parts , I just want to do this once as you know what I mean . haha

hello all z members !! just 1 question , my rear main seal is weeping and in need of replacement. is nissan the best seal to buy or is there a better brand to use thanks