kully 560

the measurement from the top of the grid pattern to the sealing edge it is 7" and I added a 1/4" for the thickness of the rubber to the top . I know when the 1983 zx turbo motor was installed I did not have a problem with the oil pan fitting the crossmember . I later located a 1977 280z motor and I change out the cylinder head and oil pan because I did not like having to plug up the oil cooling line in the oil pan for the turbo. if I remember correctly both pans were a match .so I did some head work to the n47 and swap out the p90a head for the n47 also .

after I read your post I checked ebay and a Nissan dealer had the oil sticks for sale with 2 left so I bought 1, so nothing like new for the z . the length is from the top of the grid pattern to the top of the rubber is 7 -1/4" and my stick is straight with no bends to it also . but I still do not under stand why 3 difference reference are 3/4 of a quart different. I have been driving cars since the 70s and every car I have owned if it said 5 qts that's what it takes. my new ford truck says 7.7 qts and that fills just right so this bothers me. you know I have owned this car since 1979 and started the full resto in 1990 -1995 along with the new motor swap and even since then this oil thing has bothered me. but when I posted about the shell rotella t4 oil with the added zinc last week I changed the oil and I started thinking maybe I should ask if anybody knows why there is such a difference in oil capacity . I think when I had the 260z motor I believe that took 5 qts. I think all the oil pans and blocks are the same except I maybe the f54 blocks might be Siamese cylinders if I remember correctly.

hi zed head I pick up a new 280zx oil dip stick part # 11140-p6502. it is the same as the one I had in the engine. (nicer looking with yellow shrink tube on top. haha was not a loss $ 15.00 shipped) so with 4 1/2 quarts of oil and the large oil filter the reading just touches the h on the high level mark. my Chilton's book says capacity is 4.75 qts and the Haynes says 10 pints and on the nico forum somebody posted 4.25 quarts. there is no way to put in 5 quarts of oil with out it being over filled . I am just going to fill to the high level mark but it still bothers me that there is a 3/4 quart difference between the 3 references.

yep I ordered a zx dip stick so I let you now how it works out zed head thanks

yes this has been in the back of my mind for years but I all ways figured I was in range ! I all ways thought the blocks and pans were the same and I picked the better looking dip stick never thought about matching them up. so what 50 gallon oil pan?

I measured the dip stick and yes zed head it is 7 1/4" down to the top of the rubber stop. when I changed out the oil pan from the 1983 zx motor to the 1977 280z motor oil pan I used the 1977 dip stick to match but never thought the was going to be such a difference. what is you thoughts on how to correct this problem?

I do the oil changes in the garage level floor.but the f54 block is a turbo block from a 1983 zx. I swap the p90a head for the n47 head along with the oil pan which both came from 1977 280z motor. the reason the oil pan was swap is because of the oil cooling line that is use on the 280zx turbo motor. so I thought the z motors all took 5 qt to fill up? (large filter ZED HEAD) I DO FILL PUT IN AS MUCH AS I CAN UP TO THE HIGH LEVEL MARK. so adjusted to the newer trucks and cars it they take what it states in the owners manual.

this seems like a dumb question but on a f54 block and a n47 head I can only get 4.25 -4.5 qt of oil in this motor. I drain the motor oil when it is hot, I let it drain for about 1/2 hour then I change the filter. now I fill with 4 qt of oil ,start it up bring up pressure and then I shut down and let it cool for about 1 hour or so and then I check it and it only takes maybe a 1/4 qt - 1/2 qt more to top it off to high line on the dip stick. every book says 5 qt but not in this motor. does every body get in 5 qt of oil? I check the rubber stop on my oil dip stick and it does not move so I now that is not the problem. I just do not want to dump in 5 qt and it shows over filled also.

if it helps I bought it at tractor supply

it is a diesel engine oil for the newer diesel engines so it should be sold in all 50 states I would think?

I use to use the defy but no longer able to get it .so I looked on the quaker state site and no longer made. that is what led me to the rotella t4 oil. I believe the quaker state high mileage oil is what replaced it and when I called them I think if I remember right the zinc was about 800ppms.

spoke to Rotella this week and they suggest to now use there Rotella t4 10w-30w diesel oil in the z cars because of the higher 1200 ppm zinc content,that is better to use with the overhead cams. it is because the new diesel engines do not need as much cleaning agents anymore with the new emission they carry. just would like to see the forum thoughts.

the sensor I bought is a 180 degree sensor but when I check its operation it closes at 192 degree which then turns on the fan that is why I installed it on the upper radiator hose . I do not know what msa sensor works at but all the internet reading I have read most use the upper radiator hose so the water coming out is not to hot . when I installed the radiator sensor prob that thermos cool gives the instructions said to install it in the upper portion of the radiator I believe center location which would be about the same as the upper radiator hose temp give or take a few degrees. so now after installing the sensor my temperature gauge now stays on the m symbol which is perfect.

I have a color tune and had the same problem with checking the color reading would not change when turning the mixture nuts. turns out I had a dirty fuel filter ,car drove fine but it effected the final adjustments. it screw up the color tune reading so I changed the filter and all is good .now when I turn the mixture nuts the color tune plug changes with the adjustment .

I bought a new not rebuilt steering rack at the beginning of 2017 from car steering on ebay this year for $272.00 for my early 260z . my rack was bad had a little play in it so I install this new rack and now the car drives perfect. I see now they sell rebuilt but you can check with them if they have any new racks. not much can go wrong with these racks that can not be rebuilt but I was lucky to find a new one ,as far as the tie rods I used moog brand. also the rack came with a new inner tie rod which I think is about $90.00

this is the temperature sensor I use ebay # is 232282757516 ,180 degree 1/8" npt threads. the 34mm radiator hose adaptor I used is ebay # 110957401514, 1/8" npt threads . I installed it right next to the thermostat housing in the upper radiator hose and the sensor screws into the adaptor with Teflon tape. the sensor is used to break the ground wire on a 4 pin 30 amp relay that I pickup local at the auto parts store. the relay has 4 pins and they all use the same common terminals numbers no matter what brand .now for wiring the #30 is for a 30 amp positive wire from the battery fused , # 87 terminal goes to the fan motor,#86 terminal goes to a 12v switch positive wire, and # 85 is the ground wire that goes to the center pin on the temperature sensor, and the 34mm radiator hose adaptor has a ground screw next to the sensor that you would connect a wire to that screw and then connect it to the chassis on the car as to make the ground connection for the relay to be activated when the sensor calls for cooling on-off cycle. make certain that the center pin on the temperature sensor gets the wire from terminal # 85 on the relay because when you install the 34mm hose adaptor it touches the thermostat housing and that makes a ground connection and if you switch the thermostat sensor wires backwards the fan comes on all the time . there is not a lot of room for the hose adaptor it has to get installed right up against the thermostat housing and the upper hose bends right after it. I chose this hose adaptor because some reviews said the cheaper ones on ebay that the 1/8" npt threads were not threaded that well . this adaptor has perfect threads and the sensor screws right in . if you decide to install a manual override switch you simply connect one side of the switch to terminal # 85 on the relay and the other side of the switch will connect to ground or chassis on the car.

well I just finish install new hoses and antifreeze and the sensor in the upper radiator hose works great in the upper hose, on -off no problem temp gauge stays on the m letter in the gauge cycles perfect much better than the crappy radiator sensor. it belongs in the upper hose thanks for all the reply kully

good point I ordered a 180 degree fan sensor switch and when I tested it in hot water it will close the contact at 192 degree to turn the fan on so that should be fine in the upper radiator hose . thermostat is a 180 degree and sensor is 192 degree now that I am thinking about it and reading these posts it does belong in the upper hose thanks kully

thanks for the answers I would have to agree that it is normal than . all is good then

these cars seem to run there best with timing set between 34 -36 degrees at all in 2500- 3000 rpms that is why I have mine set to 34 degrees perfect spot. but as captain obvious says this is normal for the rpms to increase . I was just looking to see if other forum members here have the same issue with there cars as of doing the same thing .

thinking about this if it was on the upper radiator hose the water is all ways hotter coming out from the engine so the fan would run non stop ???

I bypass every thing that the stock 260 ignition had meaning the stock ignition module , the warm up switch in the thermostat housing . my msd has just a 12 switch feed to it. my distributor in the car now is a 1980 d6k8-22 which has a very high vacuum advance that is why I do not use it, so I set the timing with a advance timing light at 34 degrees at 3000 rpms with vacuum advance plug up all the time . I know it is not any thing electric that would raise the idle that is why I am looking into carbs,it is when she warms up the idle goes up.

thanks for the reply that is what I was thinking also

maybe I should have fill you in more on the car ,I am running a msd ignition with a zx dissy no vacuum advance is hookup and the timming is set 17 degrees before tdc so as to see 34 degrees at full advance. plugs gap at 45 , and it has a header on it with 2 -1/4" exhaust all the way back. the carbs were just balance and the mixture is right on. starts great, runs great, it has always done this been living with it . but I guess I would like to look further into this if it is not normal. when I start the car it idles great but 700 rpms in park, drive around with choke open up a little 1-2 miles she warms up then no choke runs great but after a good 10 minute drive the idle increases [ in park] like maybe the carb oil gets hot and the carbs are reacting different just my thoughts

I am removing the radiator electric fan sensor [sucks]and going to install it in the radiator hose with the hose adaptor . some people say to install in the upper hose and others say to install it in the bottom hose. so some say the upper hose will read the hot water coming out of the motor hotter than what is going in and others say to control the water going into the motor . my stat is a 180 degree and the sensor is a 180 degree that will close the contact at 192 degrees to turn on the fan. so where is ever body installing these sensors on this z forum? thanks