kully 560

no problem for the doubting .I bought this distributor over 10 years ago from black dragon brand new and it was advertised as zx distributor . then I found out that looking at walter m distributor curve sheet that is has a very high vacuum advance so I plug it up and just timed it at 36 degrees full advance. but somebody on this site years ago informed me that the distributor is for a 1980 280zx automatic car. it came with the e12-80 module all brand new so in my notes I have wrote down 1980 zx auto distributor. I never thought to check the height difference but the 1977 cap and rotor fits fine and works fine. as siteunseen shows in the pictures also thank you for that . the rotors are taller and the cap is taller, but the 280z cap and rotor fits and works great , why the increase in height that Nissan did I do not know why. I always thought the caps and rotors fit from 240 through 280zx but there is the height difference on the zx caps and rotors. it is about 1/2" taller as siteunseen shows in the picture. that made me start checking old stock pulling out buckets of z parts in the shed to find the old caps and rotors, diameter is fine just the height. thanks for the help everbody. learned something today never to old for that kully

yes it is a zx distributor #d6k8-22 has very high vacuum advance that's why I run it with vacuum advance plugged up and have my timing advanced to 36 degrees all in!

I made the mistake and ordered the 1977 280z cap and rotor instead of the 1980 zx cap and rotor from rock auto. the cap and rotor fits tight no play seems to fit like it belongs there and car runs great just seems fine. I would just do not know what the difference is being beck arnley has a different part # for the 1980 zx dissy

I ordered the wrong distributor cap! the one I have now is for a 1977 280z and the distributor cap needed is for a 1980 280zx distributor. the 280z fits fine tight no wobble and ignition timing has not changed . does anybody know the difference between the 2 cap as they have different part #s. was ordering plugs for the 1977 and did not change the year for the distributor cap and rotor.

yes I will fab up something with maybe a thin piece of aluminum with a grommet for the wires to exit out. I will probably just make up a small wire harness 2 wires with stack-ons for the e12-80 and leave it in the car. it is just 2 screws to hold it on and 2 stack-ons on each side a 5 minute change tops. just to let you know the car starts better when cold very little cranking and starts right up. with the 2 modules hooked up together I had to do a lot more cranking .

no I may have to make something up ,the e12-80 is almost brand new. I was reading up yesterday some old post that some people even j mortensen was one that I remember ran the msd 6al with the e12-80 removed and suggested to wire it up using the red and green wire from the dissy to the violet and green from the msd 6al. I used the red to violet and keep green to green.the car ran nice seems to pull better through the rpm range , idles the same , but has better throttle response. what triggers the 6al is the dissy when the e 12-80 is removed the distributor I guess acts like a switch. on one side of the 6al is a molded plug that is used for this purpose it has the violet and green wire . I have read that a few people have done this way to remove the e12-80 to eliminate one failure . now if the mds fails I still have the e 12-80 for backup. but there was a performance gain here when removed not a lot but better throttle response. I will see how the car starts in the morning when cold as I almost always need choke. I was hoping the ones who did this mod had a way to close off the opening. ps I remember somebody was saying that you are controlling a module with a module like the e12-80 with the msd 6al. the mds should run alone or e12-80 alone. this was in a old posts , so I tried it and like it better.

when I remove the e12-80 and wire the pickup direct to the msd 6al what do people use to close up the hole in the side of the dissy thanks kully

hi Jeremy it is a basic square panel the way it looks so if I can not locate nice used ones I plan to make them from flat mud flaps the basic size looks about 10" x10"

yes when I was young I bought the 260z in 1979 and after changing the bad headlight bulbs several times I left these off of the car as they were a pain to remove and install . my other choice if I can not locate a used pair I will make a set from flat plastic mud flaps and bolt them back on for protection . the ones that came off back then were plastic .

yes that is right but not longer made I need to source used ones.my early 74 260z had some 280 parts from the factory because they ran out some stock and they used some 280 parts .I have called ever where that I know of for used parts and can seem to locate them.

no that is not the part I am looking for. the part is a square panel that is held by 6 bolts that get bolted in inside the front wheel well.it closes in the headlight bezel.it is about 10" x 10" square and you would unbolt it from inside the wheel well in front of the front tire. once it is removed you would see the headlight bezel and wiring harness. it completes the inner fender well linner so no road dirt can fly into the headlight bezel and wiring harness.

my car is a 1974 early 260z but what I have found out is that at the time Nissan was running out of parts for production at that time and they must have used 1975 parts because this is what z car source , california datzun people have told me.I think they were used in all the 280 models and for what they say at the end of the production of the 260z .

hi everybody I am in need of 2 body parts no long made ,I am looking for the front fender seal that covers the headlight bezel and bolts to the inner fender wheel well liner . if you look inside from the front tire you will be looking at the headlight . this is the cover that keeps the dirt off of the bezel.I am in need of both left and right side .I will purchase and pay shipping if anybody has these 2 parts kind regards kully

I just ordered from a Nissan dealer on ebay. the oem set was $ 57.33 each.I ordered part # 54320-e4100 for a 1974 early 260z. I will be installing in the rear with kyb struts and kyb boots and bump stop . the kyb bump stop is made from polyfoam which comes with the boot kit . they are not the urethane ones I hope they are ok? also I did see the motorsport auto one you are talking about but I really wanted rubber insulators for a better ride as I do not autocross just a sunday driver. I think the urethane will transmit to much of the road.I am replacing my tokico hps with kybs for a better ride . it was like driving a gocart haha

thanks for the reply and the part # from other manufactures kully

looking @kyb front strut mount bearing sm5064 anybody used these ? how is quality and fitment, installing on a early 1974 260z thanks kully

I have a early 74 260z and can not seem to find aftermarket strut insulators . does anybody know if they are made , who makes them and where to buy them ,or do I need to use oem Nissan parts thanks kully

I think you are right. just as usual we never stop improving our z cars . it is not bad at all, just looking for a little better performance .did not know much about these bump steer spacers thought it might help. thanks for you help kully

I have stock rubber bushings all around except for the ttt lower control arms and tension control arms, these all have the hiem joints which will help in feed back. but the bump steer I would like to cure if possible . do you think this could be fixed or just have to live with it ?

front left camber is-0.3 degrees and right is -0.4 degrees , caster is front left 3.0 degrees and right is 3.1 degrees. toe is front left 0.16 degrees and right is 0.15 degrees SAI front left is 12.6degrees front right is 13.0 degrees , including angle is front left 12.4 degrees and front right is 12.6 degrees . tires @ 32 psi thanks kully

I have a early 1974 260z new front end new stock springs and tokico hp shocks. everything is new. alignment is perfect camber and caster. I have tt tunning lower adjustable control arms and tt tunning adjustable tension control rods . very happy so far except for the bump steer when I hit a bump the steering wheel jerks. no experience in bump steer or bump stop parts . so which one do I change or add ?thanks kully

just a question for mr j mortensen ,finally getting around to removing the e-12-80 module , to be honest I forgot about it , so you said to use the msd alone ,I have the ford pigtail and the colors in it are green and purple . in my zx dissy I have red and green that comes from the module.so I think you mean to wire green to green and red to purple would just like to check thanks kurt

also I am set at 16 degrees btdc right now .this is a great forum but it make you read way to much into things!!!

great thanks for everbodys help ,is the vaccum advance of 30 degrees to much for a stock f54 block with dished pistons n47 head and su carbs? car runs great with no ping or noise.or would I be better with vaccum advance disconnected and run 17 degrees timming plus 17 degrees of mechanical to make total 34 degrees