kully 560

did you disconnect the choke cables! I learned that the hard way with my color tune the cables need to be disconnected.

so why don't you remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold and start the engine let it warm up. now make sure the coolant is low enough to not overflow. let the thermostat open and insert a meat thermometer the opening and be careful not touch the sides, insert 1-2 inches and then take a reading.

why don't you just but an infrared heat gun and point it to the thermostat housing and radiator and read the temp? it will give you an idea if your Guage is off that much.

I would get a little more of a rough idle when sitting at a traffic light that is very long on days that are in the mid 90s. I run a zx dissy with 34 degrees all in, msd6al, and blaster 2 coil. I closed the gap on my plugs from 44-38, and the motor seems to like it better and smoother idle. I think the su carbs like the smaller gap but that is not going to help with your temp. I do run an electric fan on the 4-row aluminum radiator, and I have an adjustable fan switch that turns on at 183 degrees and shuts off at 178 degrees, that is with a 180-degree thermostat. my fuel lines are not insulated, and I have a ceramic header, but I think I might be getting a little fuel percolation at idle for an overly long traffic light. I can feel the engine a little more on those hot days with the longer idle but not bad at all. and my idle rpms never drop like yours. I might insulate the fuel rails in the future, but I really do not drive the car in 95 degrees anyway.so my fuel rails are plated and they do look nice, but it's hard to cover them up. I did not read all 16 pages on this thread, but I do no Nissan insulated the fuel lines on my 260z way back then for the fuel percolation problems with the hot temps. also I don't know if you are running lean or not.

I also run at 34 degrees btdc at 2500rpms

I use a zx dizzy, and I do not use the matchbox that came with it. I just wired my msd 6al directly to it and made a small cover to close the hole where the match box was mounted. car runs great no problems.

thanks for all the help, I did install the 2 rubber plugs underneath the back side of the hatch last year as it must have been an oversite when I restored the car years ago, it did help big time. never thought to look up after the bottom hatch was painted and installed. thanks for making me look again at the license plate wire grommet which was replaced back then. years ago, I think back in the 90s I did purchase a black rear carpeted 6x9 speaker box from motorsport auto that replaces the back cover for the taillights. what I just found was the bass tube in the center has an open 2" plastic pipe that lets the bass out from behind the 6x9" speakers into the cabin. so, I used some black gorilla tape and closed up the pipe on the inside. if it does help which I now think it will then I don't mind losing some bass and having better air in the cabin. that weatherstrip in the rain gutter seems useless to me maybe that is why I never replaced it back then. but it was cheap enough that I will just replace it, so it is original.

I am going to change the door seals that I did use years ago that are made by precision to the s30 world door seals that I already ordered. it will let my doors close tighter as the precision makes them stick out a little. it can only help when the windows are closed anyway, but with the wife anything will help. she does not understand it is a 51–52-year-old car with no catallactic converter.

my z is an early 260z, and I did check the main weather strip using a dollar bill that will not slide at all around the hatch. I did change the taillight gaskets but is did very little to help. I could not understand why Nissan did use that seal for water management as the water will only run down the back anyway. maybe is it designed to keep less water out?

first happy thanksgiving to everybody, I do have one question maybe someone can answer. I have been chasing exhaust fumes which really are not that bad, but the wife still smells it. on my rear deck I have the large weatherstrip that's been installed years ago but I was missing the small one that I call the part where it goes the rain gutter. Nissan part is a 3-piece weather strip. the one msa sells made by precision that is a 1-piece weather strip that glues to the top channel where the hinges are and down the 2 sides. I really do not know what is does, is it meant to keep water out of the channel or is for exhaust fumes? thanks

water does not really flow until the thermostat opens at temperature!

is the 10v when the engine is not running or running? if it is when the engine is running you could try to run a separate switch 12v wire to the coil and see if that fixes the problem. also does you coil have the correct resistance? just a thought as I am not a fuel injector person, I run carbs.

I have to make some calls to see if all the material is not faced dyed. my driver seat when getting in the bottom corner close to the door gets scratched. I believe the synthetic material it faced dyed. I need to use touch up paint after a while for it to look good. the foam is getting really old, so I am going rebuild the seats and would like to use a material the is colored all the way through. thanks Carl, for the post about rebuilding the seats ALOT OF INFO!

have you use them, as far as leather not scratching through the color? and how was the fit? thanks

hello,I am looking to see what the forum folks here have been using as far as seat covers. I did recover my seats about 25 years ago and they still look great. but when I enter on the driver side the seat gets scratched from getting in. I did use MSA covers back then, and I would like to install new foam and better seat covers, any suggestions? thanks

I would remove the ballast resistor and install a 3 -ohm coil, and then disconnect the choke cables completely and then use the color tune and rebalance the carbs !

I believe it should be a 3 ohm coil with 4&6 cylinder engines

if you do use a color tune to adjust the fuel mixture, the disconnect the choke cables completely and let them hang.

you do not need anybody to do this!!! you need to do one carb at a time !! now disconnect the cable from the #2 screw let the choke lever on the carb drop down and then lift up that lever until it just barley starts to pull down the nozzle, then lift it back up so the nozzle is seated. now just drop the choke lever down just a touch and retighten the # 2 screw. do this on both carbs and you choke will be fine!

you need to lift the choke lever under the carbs until it just starts to pull down the nozzle and then back off just a touch then tighten screw#2

when I adjusted my choke cable on the 4 bolt carbs same as yours, I left the choke lever to the off position. now with the choke nozzle all the way up I just lowered the lever a touch and then tighten up the screw that holds the cable #2 screw. now with full choke on and cold start I will rev 2500 rpms and with the choke in the off position I am down to 700rpms. hope this helps

I did order the part on march 17, and I did receive the item today. so not to long of shipping times.