kully 560

I did find the brand Keiurot brand on amazon with different colors. I did order the green color they are non -polarity so they should work cheaper than superbright with the prime shipping. they have some good reviews so time will tell.

thanks for the help, but I did start with the green color so I would not have to remove the lens. but I did just find on super bright web site the non- polarized green led replacements. I will look around a little more before I order. when I do install the new led bulb, I will let everybody know how I made out with the install. I really find it hard to believe Nissan would wire the speedo gauge in reverse, that just does not make any sense. thanks

I did just check and the ba9s led bulbs that I am using are polarity sensitive. I will need to look into a non-sensitive green led bulb if there are any out there to be had. like steve said the last 2 are in the speedo and must be wired backwards. good call steve . thanks kully

thanks for the help, but with only being able to work from under the dash because of the dash cover it might be almost impossible to change the sockets. I did use your suggestion steve on the auxito h4 headlight bulbs with great success and I did change all the rest to led bulbs with no problem, except I did leave the turn signals original.

hi Steve, I did some research and read you reviews on the led bulb, and I did order the same ones that you used from amazon the green duabhoi brand. and I did not find them polarity sensitive.

thanks zed head, I know there is no flasher. if there was one, they would most likely just stay on all the time and not blink. I did get down to 2 -3w bulbs left and changed 1 of the 2 to the led type and then the dash lights went out! so I installed the old bulb in the same socket and bingo they all came back on!

the 260z sockets have its own ground wire. I changed the 3 smaller gauges with no problem to led bulbs. and no problem with them working and dimming. I managed to remove the tach sockets from under the dash and when I installed the first led, it was working but when I installed the second led bulb nothing. I did have only 1 bulb working in the speedo as the bottom bulb was not working. I did try to bypass the dimmer with a jumper and nothing. but I did manage to change the bad bulb in the speedo that was not working but I went back to the 4w bulb. I would have thought with the low power draw from the leds that bypassing the dimmer would have worked. thanks for the help so far.

thanks I did get them out but when I changed to led they will not light because of the low power draw . any why to bypass the dimmer?

I am trying to change the bulbs on the speedo meter and the tach meter and I have a dash cover, so I can't remove the guage. but I removed the center dash where the flip down light is and removed the heater flex hose. and now can reach the sockets but do they just pull out or twist out? thanks

with my auto tranny in drive it does shift quick from 1st -2nd gear, it is when going from 2nd -3rd gear with light throttle its lazy. now with more throttle the lazy shift is gone. these trannys also shift from 1st -2nd gear quite fast like about 7-9 mph into 2nd gear. I would like it to stretch out a little further if this shift kit would do that. but now if I whale the car and want the rpms to reach 5500 I would need to shift manually. I have been having a problem with this tranny in the last 2 months that the rear tail shaft seal is leaking tranny oil. I did change the seal twice and resealed the drive shaft yoke which helped. but it still drips several drops of oil when I park the car in the garage overnight. the transmission store it my town thinks it could be the inner tail shaft seal or possible a clog vent. but if it is the inner seal the tranny will have to come out to remove the tail shaft and change the inner seal. that is why if the tranny has to be taken out, I might as well install the kit. but I also don't want to build too much pressure and have another leak also. I can't find out how much more pressure we are talking about. I would ask the shop owner, but they closed this week for a vacation.

I did see the utube video, but it was only pictures. I did read some were that the holes in the valve body had to be installed or made bigger, but I did not see that in the utube pictures. I will have to do more looking on that forum for some more info. I am a little nervous about the holes because once that is done, I can't go back. tim did say that the kit is now for the 3 speeds jatco trannys. he does offer a little softer spring like I guess a stage 2 vs a stage 3 spring. now the reason I am looking for more info is because I really do not want real hard shifting. he did suggest the stage 3 for a street car but would like to here from other folks that did the install . thanks for the info . kully

thank you for the info, I will check on that site

I was just thinking of installing a shift kit in my 280zx automatic tranny and see that a person in Australia has them for sale. has anybody installed a shift kit and how do you like it. I can't find any reviews online. thanks

yes, the connection at the top of the filler neck does drain into the reservoir tank! I was hoping it was not clogged for you. maybe the line is plugged from the water-rust. but like I was saying I can't draw vacuum from front to back until the car is hot, that I can't understand. I am glad that it looks like your problem is solved!!

I do not know why I can't blow back to the vapor tank also from where the canister is at all on my 260z. [hot or cold] but I can only suck air when after the car was just driven. I did check for pressure at the gas cap, and I do not have any at all. I know you are not running the canister, but you think the line is plugged? I guess what I am saying is mine seems to not flow back from the canister at all anytime. but when the car is hot it will flow air from the vapor tank to the canister. [only when hot] now in the fsm it only shows an orifice in the line from vapor tank to canister not a 1-way valve. did you happen to try on the gas filler neck just below the gas cap and blow air back to the vapor tank? I am also trying to understand this flow thing that I have as compared to yours. it seems that mine is working correctly and only flows when needed. I never looked into the top of the vapor tank to see if there is a build in check valve for a 1- way vapor flow. I am looking forward to the results from when you cut the line. that should tell all.

if this helps, this morning I removed the vent line from the vapor tank, and I could not suck any air through the line. I guess because the car sat overnight, so today I drive the car and when I turned off the engine, I removed the vapor line at the canister and was able to suck air through the line.

I seem to remember some were way back then, that I also did want to get rid of the carbon canister. I was told never to do that because for a reason I can't remember that the car will never run right. as far as fuel pumps goes. I use a low- pressure carter at the back of the car with no pressure regulator on the return line and I have 3.42 lbs at the carbs. try to keep thing simple.

I have a 1974 260z and I check the fsm-ef32 and ef33. on my car the vent line from the vapor tank above the fuel tank goes to the front canister on the passenger side. there is an orifice built into the hard steel line that when I removed the hose from the canister, I can't blow back to the vapor tank but can suck air from there. I believe that will stop pressure going back to the vapor tank/ fuel tank .

I have a 74 and no check valve, and no pressure at all. it could be a clog return line

I have been though several electric fans setups, and I did try the relay with a several brand cooling switchs at several times and they are not at all accurate. if you look in the electrical section on this site I did just install a davies craig fan controller with great success. I at one time use a flex-a lite 14" fan with the old radiator and now with the new champion radiator I have a 13" spal fan. the spal fan has a lot more air flow then the other fan . [power]

I just installed this controller today and works great with the electric fan. I installed the sensor in the thermostat cover, I did install the controller in a weatherproof plastic box in the engine compartment. this model came with the 1/4" npt sensor and also the radiator probe sensor. I only used the 1/4" npt sensor. it will turn on at your set temp and then off 5 degrees lower.it does seem off by 6 degrees, as I have it set at 183 degrees for on and off is 178 degrees. that is comparing with a digital thermometer in the top of the radiator. it can be adjusted from 110 degrees to 230 degrees by 1 degree increments. I can see when the water pump is at full flow in the top of the radiator and that seems to be 183 degrees with a 180 Nissan thermostat. I also install the override switch to manual turn on the fan. it seems to have the same ratings but more user reviews then digital dakota . it is also made down under . I drove the car today and the temps were in the lower 70s and the fan never turn on unless I sat idling for 3-4 minutes after a long drive. it seems to be doing what it was designed to do. hopes this help anybody looking for a decent fan controller.

I think the one on the left is the interlock relay but the other 2 are unknow

I am now looking to clean up the engine bay, and I have what looks like 3 relays mounted on the firewall. they are behind the glove box. the car is an early 1974 datsun 260z. I would like to get rid of them if they are not need. thanks

nice thanks for the photos