kully 560

I am looking to install an electric cooling fan switch in the upper thermostat housing . anybody know where to purchase one, and what temp would I want for the fan to come on with a 180 degree thermostat .also what about the thread size if anybody knows that . thanks

thank you , yes I did just notice that on the rock auto site

well time to get the z going again and I hope ever body has a safe season this year!! my question is I have a 1974 260z with a 1983 zx motor . I would like to change the oil pressure sender and I see on rock auto the 1974 260z has a different part #. the 260z takes a standard part # ps171 and the 1983 280zx take a standard ps173 .so with a 280zx oil pump what would be the correct part # I believe I should use the 260z part # to go with the original gauge but what is your thoughts .thanks

if it does advance when rpms are increased that is also the mechanical advance, and the vacuum advance still might not be working.

feel better and stay well siteunseen

thanks I will check the piston movement today. when I wipe my finger under the mixing screw it is oil. so I will have to check the piston movement . I had oil there yesterday and no oil this morning . my oil level is down about a 1/2" below the ring on both carbs and that is where it always was . I thought it was supposed to be at the level ring all the time ?

my carbs oil level is always below the line , they never stay filled up to the line !! so I am not sure where the level should be. I would think the over filled oil should be burned off and not leak.

does anybody know why I have carb oil on the bottom of my 4 bolt su carbs? it seems when I put my finger under the mixing screw it get wet with oil. these were rebuild way back in 1997 from z therapy . so could there be a seal or gasket that went bad? thanks kully

thanks again for the reply and again the street muffler test !! that just through a wrench in my thoughts haha

great video ak260!!! love the test sounds. thanks for all your work , I have been looking at there mufflers sometime now and your video gave me what I was looking for . 1 question are you straight piped or are you using a resonator ?

my 260z had both fuel pumps, down at the bottom of the passanger rail behind the tire is where the fuel return rail is located. you should be using the return fuel rail !!

yes I put the cam cover back on, cleaned the gasket and head where the gasket meets and torqued down to 84" pounds. when the cover was off I felt around the back of the head and it was dry. unless it is a slow drip above the #6 header pipe in the rear corner that is all I can think of. it is hard to see as my oil never turns black I all ways try to keep the oil pretty clean. so later this week when the weather clears up I'll take it for a run and see what happens . if it is still leaking I order a new cam cover gasket and change it. that would be blessing if that was it but for some reason I have my doubts.

now that I was thinking about it I might leave the torque setting alone. the torque wrench click at 54 lbs so it must be tighter than that . I am going to drive it again and check to see where it is leaking from with a fresh gunk job and maybe see where it is staring from. I wonder if it could be a rear main seal maybe throwing the oil back up there , the oil pan looks good also. I would think if it were the rear main seal it would throw it back on the tranny!

good luck with your retirement it is the best thing I ever did !! my joints feel better since I retired but is still the my age but better. I did just check the head bolts and at 54 lbs nothing moved ! I am afraid to maybe go to 60 lbs what do you think ?

yes I will be 65 in august, and when I was working I all ways out work the kids. when a job had to be done right away the boss all ways put the older guy on it . it seemed most of the kids in my job had 1 speed!!! I spent almost 40 years in the line work field climbing in and out of bucket trucks and trenches and now I am paying for it. some days are good and others take a little time to get moving .but life goes on and I am not going to stop, I work through it . the good news is I can still get my leg over the harley !!!!!!!!!

hey cliff, when you give him a few tall boys put some pop corn in it, just might make his night ! yes zed head the mind all ways thinks young, but some mornings make me think a little different .

well racer x, I am 64 years young or old sometimes in the morning ps thanks for the help with the download !! I did get that far but it would not open so as you suggest I click the save to desk top and that was it big thanks

no worries , I getting old I thought I was having a moment!!

yes I did not think it was a L6 motor . I have the torque sequence from the manuals, and yes it is a good idea to set my torque wrench at 54 lbs to see if I have a loose bolt . if I do not find any loose bolts should I increase to 60 lbs? I really do not want to change the head gasket if I don't have to ! 60 lbs might be looking for trouble but I already have a oil leak right? I am not low on anti freeze , no oil in the antifreeze and no water in the oil . the motor runs l perfect, and I do remember back in the 80s when I blew a head gasket in the 260 motor what that was like.

hey siteunseen thanks for the info, but I am not computer smart like the kids are so I could not fine the fsm on this site for the 1977 n47 cylinder head . so I looked in my haynes and chilton manuals and there are 14 bolts . the 1st setting is 30 ft lbs and the second is 44 ft lbs and the 3rd is 54-61 ft lbs . you are showing 10 bolts with a max torque of 49 ft lbs? I also would like to thank ever body for the help !!

no ,I just saw that also in the photo after you said that and I wiped it down with Windex and it is gone I almost crap in my pants going to the garage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was afraid of that, does anybody know what the torque pattern is and the torque specs for n47 cylinder head? thanks

I will check again on the valve cover but it looked dry , I will get a picture posted also thanks