kully 560

well racer x, I am 64 years young or old sometimes in the morning ps thanks for the help with the download !! I did get that far but it would not open so as you suggest I click the save to desk top and that was it big thanks

no worries , I getting old I thought I was having a moment!!

yes I did not think it was a L6 motor . I have the torque sequence from the manuals, and yes it is a good idea to set my torque wrench at 54 lbs to see if I have a loose bolt . if I do not find any loose bolts should I increase to 60 lbs? I really do not want to change the head gasket if I don't have to ! 60 lbs might be looking for trouble but I already have a oil leak right? I am not low on anti freeze , no oil in the antifreeze and no water in the oil . the motor runs l perfect, and I do remember back in the 80s when I blew a head gasket in the 260 motor what that was like.

hey siteunseen thanks for the info, but I am not computer smart like the kids are so I could not fine the fsm on this site for the 1977 n47 cylinder head . so I looked in my haynes and chilton manuals and there are 14 bolts . the 1st setting is 30 ft lbs and the second is 44 ft lbs and the 3rd is 54-61 ft lbs . you are showing 10 bolts with a max torque of 49 ft lbs? I also would like to thank ever body for the help !!

no ,I just saw that also in the photo after you said that and I wiped it down with Windex and it is gone I almost crap in my pants going to the garage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was afraid of that, does anybody know what the torque pattern is and the torque specs for n47 cylinder head? thanks

I will check again on the valve cover but it looked dry , I will get a picture posted also thanks

no it is oil that is running down the side of the motor at the # 6 cylinder no a lot . when I wipe my finger under the header it is wet with oil . I sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake manifold with no change in rpms either . the cylinder head is not leaking as far as I can see and the motor runs and idles perfect . I drove it yesterday and at a stop light I thought I had auto start stop it was so smooth . could it be the bottom of the intake ? maybe bolts? I did use all the old hardware back in 1997, and at that time I had no idea that I was supposed to use all new hardware I guess for stretching ? does any of these bolts go into any oil passages? I also did not use any bolt / threat sealer back then either.

I now have a oil leak from the # 6 cylinder header bolt dripping down by the bell housing , it looks like the second bolt in on a n47 head is this just a bad gasket ? all spark plugs look great , when I assembled the motor 25 years ago I used the old hardware I did not know at the time about changing out the hardware . so I now see msa auto sells the new hardware kit and gasket . I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and have no rise in rpms . is it just a bad gasket and old hardware ? thanks for the help

I have 1974 early 260z , I just installed a new datsun voltage regulator and what is next to it is a large box that says 3a fuse link. it is located just behind the passenger side headlight next to the carbon canister .does anybody know what this is for ?

I was able to lower the fuel pressure at the carbs from 3.6 psi to 3.2 yesterday by sticking a small awl in the return line hole and just reamed it a little bit .now I am much happier now that I do not have to worry about fuel over flow or ruining the needle and seats. I read that 3.5 psi was at the top limit so this is much better . so now off to lowes for the fire extinguisher . another little project to keep busy with winter and covid .

that one is pretty small that lowes sells ,so that will be this weeks little project. I am still leaning on the rear floor in front of the shock towers right between the seats for placement. I would think that in case of a fire quick access is best.

hey siteunseen , I wish I could store there, but before I bought the 260z in 1979 the original owner cut 6x9 speakers in the riser panel and used the storage bins for access. I could also mount it on the rear floor between the 2 storage bins and use the riser as a place to clamp it . [the riser sticks up about 1" above the rear floor and maybe use a velcro strap]

that looks nice also thanks

you are right ! I will check lowes this week and pick one up . rechargeable never seen one , thanks siteunseen will look this week .

yes a $ 20.00 fire extinguisher is something I should be carrying anyway . this car is like my left nut, I bought in 1979 and do not want to loose it now!!

I had a feeling mark you would chime in !! I read some were that su carbs like 2-2.5 at the float bowl but I do not remember where I saw it years ago. am I at the upper limit do you think?

I installed the new 240 fuel rail this week . now at the start of the fuel rail my fuel pressure is 3.9 psi . so I checked at the rear carb and the fuel pressure is 3.6 psi . is the fuel pressure to high for the 4 bold carbs? thanks

well I just finished installing the recondition 240 fuel rail and removed the 260 one with the asbestos . I am not going to install a fuel pressure regulator as with the carter p60430 pump the fuel pressure is at 3.95 psi with the gauge installed at the start of the new fuel rail. I just ran a vacuum line from the balance tube to the carbon canister to solve that problem.

well Zed Head, when I spoke to holley tech yesterday I was told it is a different regulator! the 12-804 is a dead head type like in STEVESJ diagram #1. they do not make a 1-4 psi bypass regulator . STEVESJ diagram # 3 is the way it should be setup when a z car has a return fuel line. [note Holley bypass regulator] what the hell is the difference between the bypass and the dead head style I do not know. Holley tech recommends not using the dead head on the return line only bypass style. so right now I am just improving the looks of the engine bay with a nice coated fuel rail and not being covered in asbestos like my 260 rail . so when the new rail gets installed I will put the pressure gauge on the supply line with a tee and take a reading at different rpms and see if it changes. if it stays steady at around 3- 3.5 lbs then there is no need for the regulator. if it does not, then I would like to have the ability to dial in a perfect pressure setting. now in this day and age we can do that on a 45-50 year old system. does it matter on a performance aspect probably not . but being stuck home with the covid and crap all around I need projects to keep from going out of my mind . this helps and the z will like !!

thanks captain, I did check with holley yesterday and they do not make a low pressure bypass regulator. so with a quick look yesterday on the net I did come up with the aeromotive style that is a low pressure regulator. but I guess I will research that after I install the new fuel rail and check the pressure, it sure would be nice If I do not need it. I am not really sure why the holley 12-804 would not work on the return line unless it is a safety thing. I guess if it gets stuck closed the bypass style will still pass fuel .

no I do understand what you were saying. I will take a pressure reading on the supply line and see where the psi is at after I install the 240z rail. if I do need a regulator I will probably use the bypass style on the return line and have the option to dial in. when I installed the new pump I ran a larger wire back there for the voltage drop so the pump will not be starving for power. the carter pump is 2-6 psi and I would like to have the pressure at 3-3.5 psi .my idea is to clean up the engine bay and get rid of the asbestos covered lines from the 260 fuel rail. the 240 fuel rail does not have the extra line for the vapor canister so I will need to install a vacuum hose from the balance tube to the evap canister. I would love to get rid of the canister for looks but is seems more trouble than what is worth .I read some place maybe over at hybrid z that a person installed a much smaller geo metro canister with great results as it is an updated unit. I will have to look into that down the road some time.

yes I saw the vapor line that runs from the balance tube to the canister. I forgot about that so I guess I will have to keep the canister. what I have been reading on the net it seems like its more trouble to remove it and better to leave it? the engine bay would look a lot better with out it !

what is the vapor line IIrc. my 260z line is insulated and the reason I am changing it it for the nice look .

I am was using the fuel rail from my 260 setup with the return line . I just purchased a refab 240z fuel rail in mint condition and would like to know what is the best way if I needed a pressure regulator or not . my fuel pump is the carter p60430 rated 2-6 psi. also I check and I though it was a dead head style but wanted to be sure