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Last year, I followed Steve's recommendation and bought the Toyota Kioto housings and the Auxito H4 LED bulbs. Works great.

Hi, we will have some new point of view about the seam for the C-pillar joint. Mr.Miyazaki told me about interesting story about the issue of cracking around the C-pillar. It is a new thing for me, I have never heard of it. I will report it soon. Kats

Mike I'm pretty sure I have a OE 3-piece set in the attic stash. I'll check and send pics if so. Jim

Sure do. Let me find them and post a picture

Well your memory is obviously much better than mine Kats, as I had completely forgotten about that. So the N3200 was part of the aborted Fairlady 260Z-E project... ...and the airbox mount is correct. Fascinating to think that some of the specific parts made it into Nissan's spare parts system. As mentioned, my white 240ZG project car needed a radiator support crossmember (due to old damage) and the only panel I could find at the time was the same 74820-N3200 as David has. I just removed the unneeded additions. Think it worked OK. David, can you do something like this for your N3200?

The mount for the 432 airbox is on the wrong side (factory mistake?), but the holes for the H-H 'Traction Hook' are correct. N3200 ink stamp part number? I think it was a generic one-size-fits-all interim service part just before the version with the aircon condenser-related horn mounts. I used one for my white H-H and I had to cut the 432 airbox mount off (although it was on the correct side). Worked OK. I think you'd struggle to find an NOS E4200 or E4201 version.

Indeed. And after dressing and painting nobody would know they were ever there.

Holes can be welded up...

I'm in 2 minds about this. I have a NOS rear 1/4 panel. Part No. 78100-E4600 https://goo.gl/photos/L4u3rC8JCNevTX9y8 It has the rear 1/4 marker lights holes, but HS30s sold in Australia didn't get those. So I was going to have it welded up. However I was also thinking of repairing the existing 1/4 panel which has a light altercation at some point and is currently loaded with bog. I'm not good enough to file finish it myself, but I'm sure my panel beating friend is. It will likely cost more than replacing it with the NOS panel I have though! So I'm not sure where to draw the line on this stuff, but my pragmatic brain says it's better to get them back on the road and restored. A while ago I had a bonnet repaired and it probably cost me double the price of buying a reproduction part (which were not freely available at the time I had mine repaired).. I do like the idea of keeping as much of the original car as possible. And likely I'd be the only 1 that would know how much would be replaced. But thankfully I don't yet have to make these decisions on my own project(s). So for now I'm not gonna stress too much about it.

I’m feeling the same Alan. I have been curious about the same thing happened to other parts like the choke and throttle cables, export emblems ‘chrome solid back side Z’ etc. I can’t remember exactly but even some parts started at E4101 or 4601 from the beginning of the production. Apparently those things were well before the test ride in US & Canada from October to December 1969. Body styling had finished in 1968, but development chassis and all the other things would have still been in progress in Japan? Kats

Hi Alan, the wrong side Z432 mount is what we have been waiting for! You posted a picture for a several years ago, a ‘Fairlady 260Z-E’. It has a mirror image Z432 air filter box next to the left side of the head light. I am so excited about seeing this front center rail, this proves Nissan was about to sell Fairlady 260Z-E not just making a prototype but preparing for full production for the coming new model for 1974. And also I have seen a Z432 wrong side air box on Yahoo Japan auction some years ago. I just didn’t get it what it is. But yes it existed! Kats

At first I thought CO was joking, but after reading the zclub thread, I'm not too sure.

It would be pretty easy to make those shock towers stock again. Provided you know how to MIG. Just make sure you get the front end on level and square. A frame rack would be best for that

It would be possible,but the “tow bracket holes” would bother me….Oct 69 car with obvious Oct 71 peices, but in all likelihood will have many other items/details not 100% dated correct….I maybe over thinking this……. Correct seatbelts, tail lights, seat covers can be easily “fixed” with correct over time…. That front crossmember isn’t as easily swapped out in the future. But that all being said…..I’d bet less then 5% of z guys in the “states” would know what purpose those two holes were used for from 10/71-10/72

I have a brand new after market set. I can dig them out for you. No idea what manufacturer they came from.

Hi Gavin, I probably know the owner. We had a good conversation at ZCON last year. He seems to have some good friends in Japan. I am interested in seeing the car gets back on the road. Kats

Jonathan, Thank you very much for your message... Yes you are quite correct on your advice of resisting the temptation to take the car apart beyond weekend or maybe 1 week projects... I sometimes tend to start on taking something apart, which then leads to something related item or system, and than I'm thinking "That looks (take your pick) worn out, old, dirty.... and i start working on that other thing... So yes I'll have to make sure I don't start tearing into something before what I started is completed... The suspension is going to have to get replaced, the previous owner lowered the car by cutting the stock springs, so I'm going to replace the springs, shocks and tires at all four corners as well... Thanks for the tip on the Red-Kote I'm still getting use to retirement... My biggest worry pre-retirement was how was i going to fill all the new free time I was going to have... I think cleaning up the Z and getting it ready for next summer will help with that a lot.... Thanks again

Great on lowering the gas tank, rear diff as well. Third hand as we lay on the ground!!

Looks like you are assembling a nice list of things to do so you can get it running, drive it, and assess whether you want to go to more involved projects like replacing all bushings, springs, shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, dealing with oil / fluid leaks, interior, seals, etc, etc. Get it running but keep in mind that it will handle far better once you go through the suspension and replace everything that has worn or deteriorated in the past 53 years. My advice would be to resist the temptation to take the car apart beyond weekend or maybe 1 week projects. It is super easy to turn this into a 3+ year process before you even know whether you want to keep it or not. Also, if you have the tank cleaned and the inside coated by a radiator shop...they often will use a product called Red-Kote. I had mine cleaned at a radiator shop but did the Red-Kote myself. I have had no issues with the Red-Kote product. But, I think it is important that you let Red-Kote cure for a month or more before exposing it to gasoline. Congratulations on retirement. I retired 2 years ago and have enjoyed every minute. Take care and let us know how you are progressing.

Throttle was milled from 10mm to 8mm. Its something they liked to do when he worked for electramotive. The picture , shining light up throttle shaft so you can see no light. So I feel the bearings are sealed for air leaks. I did move light around

Search for LED list. The updates from October of last year are the latest. Vendors on Amazon change their product lines, so some searching may be required. Auxito for the bulbs Koito via Toyota for the H4 housings or Hella.

Thinking about this a little... Most of those drawn cup needle roller bearings are available in a configuration where one side is closed off. Totally blind. If one finds that the vacuum leak past the bearings is objectionable, they could use that closed end variety on the outboard ends of the carbs. That would completely eliminate two of the four potential leak locations.

Didn't Madonna wear those?

Why? H4 housings with H4 LED bulbs work fine in stock buckets.

It looks like they "thinned" the web on the original throttle shafts. You can see the underlying brass where they cut the shaft down. You know.... For higher performance because it reduces air resistance at WOT.

Carb. bodies returned today. picture of sealed needle bearing Bearings on throttle shaft. You can see the support with needle bearings Bearing in carb. body

Not E4100? In the first Japanese market parts manual (pub. C-137) they list 55450-E4100 first for the S and D models, superseded by the E4101 at S30-00976. That would be around January 1970? S20-engined models first got the E4200, which was superseded with the E4201 at PS30-00103. I would imagine both supersessions were likely to be NVH-related improvements?

Ok, I can chime in on this one. Had the same issue with 26th and 27th. Z Car Depot sells two different part number stencils for the mustache bar. I bought them so that I could make a stencil for the correct number, and the correct number for HLS30-00051 IMO. 55450-E4101 https://zcardepot.com/collections/tools/products/mustache-differential-bar-part-number-stencil-r180-r200-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=ccde6f856&_ss=r# Also, if you want to get real accurate, there is a 1/4" yellow stripe across the bar just to the right of the part number. It's not a brush stroke, it's sprayed on.