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Everything posted by jonathanrussell

  1. Just reading this. Great that you got the wedge bolt out. I had a hell of a time with this about a year or so ago. I ended up doing multiple heat cycles on the fork, followed by using a hammer to hit the side of a long socket extension that was resting on the threaded side of the bolt. I rested the socket side of the extension on the loosened nut and hit the part of the extension that was outside of the housing with a hammer. In other words, the extension was reaching into the housing from the front / big opening...parallel to the shift rod. Like you, my transmission didn't have the convenient hole in the housing like the zx transmissions do. I ended up replacing the seal and the o-ring. No shifter leaks now.
  2. Kind of an old post but I am just now reading it so.... I actually used a bench grinder with a medium to fine stone. I press the bushing surface against the side of the spinning stone. And, I don't press the bushing against the stone with the grinder powered on, running full speed. I power it on and off intermittently while I press the bushing against the stone. I never let the bench grinder spin at full speed. Took some time but worked well and ended up removing material evenly. Could also use a belt sander mounted in a vice would think. If a belt sander, I would probably use something like 120 grit paper.
  3. I have solved steering wheel shimmy issues with new wheels / tires before also. My silver 240z has a bit of shimmy between 60 and 65 mph. It has new suspension components everywhere. I know for a fact though that my wheels aren't totally straight (and require a lot of weight to balance) so when I replace the wheels I expect all of the shimmy to clear up. At one point in my life I did find that straight wheels could shimmy with cheap tires. In that case a change to better tires solved it. As you mentioned too, I have found that wheels that take a lot of weight to balance often have problems with shimmy on a Z.
  4. If it were me, the first thing I would check is the cold start valve and thermotime switch. If you pull the cold start valve harness and connect positive and negative to the two cold start valve terminals, does the cold start valve spray? If yes, and you manually spray the cold start valve when the car is cold, does it start?
  5. Both of his caps have the short ears and thus need the short, easily available, needle jets. FYI, the long ones are available from a company named Wells. I think I purchased from Rockauto. For those who have long ears though...I actually like madkaw's and use the shorter needle jets...OR locate a short ear bowl cap and replace. I just don't like how the long ear / long needle jet config works in the bowls. I checked Rockauto. I am not seeing the same options I was able to order a year or two ago. But, the kits I ordered at the time were similar to this offering on ebay (see below) where the kit is for one carburetor but it includes two needle/seat short and one long. You assemble the one you need.
  6. So, the drawing below shows you how the tab should sit in relation to the metal float arm that attaches to the float cap ears. With the orientation shown in the photo it curves a bit above the parallel line of the top of the float. In the drawing, if a long needle jet were installed, either the tab would be drastically bent down OR the float arm would be bent and the travel possible for the float would be severely limited. Also, regarding your measurements. I can tell that your short needle jet is about 1" which is about the same measurement I am getting in MM...what I wrote above- 25.25mm. I agree with what Patcon said. ZT carbs come to you in great shape and I would say decently adjusted. The carbs I have received though (two sets) have benefited from more careful adjustment of the float levels. Don't get me wrong though...they do awesome work. Hope this makes sense and helps.
  7. Here are some measurements for you. I opened up my 72 3 screw carb set from my 24k mile 240z I am refreshing. I don't think these carbs have ever been touched. They even have the original needle jets. Anyway, the front carb has the caps with the longer ears. The length of the front cap ears from cap to the end of the ear is approximately 18.1mm or .7125 inches. The length of the front cap ears from the cap to the approximate center of the pin hole is 14.15mm or 55.70 in. The rear carb has the cap with the shorter ears (same as what your 4 screw carbs should and do have both front and back). The length of the rear cap ears from cap to end of the ear is approximately 12.78mm or .5035 inches (consistent with what you measured). The length of the rear cap ears from the cap to the approximate center of the pin hole is 8.52mm or .3355 inches. So here is what I think and others can weigh in as to whether I am understanding correctly. You have 4 screw carbs that have the correct float bowl lids with the short ears (or towers) both front and back. The problem is, someone installed a needle jet kit at some point that is for a 72 carb setup so your rear carb has a long needle jet and a short ear lid....which will / should never work. I think that if you install two short needle jets and set the float levels you should be in business. Wells makes rebuild kits and they sell short or long needle jets. If my notes are correct, CK749 is the short needle jet kit. You could also just order needle jets from ZT because I think all they sell is short. If I remember and understand what you wrote above you are struggling to install a short needle jet on the rear carb. What the prior owner probably did is severely bend the adjustment tab to force accommodate the long needle jet. So, you may need to do some tab reshaping. Use your front carb cap tab as a guide. Hope this helps.
  8. One thing Ztherapy does that is sort of impractical for most of us to do ourselves is they replace the bushing in the carb bodies that the throttle shaft passes through. On worn carbs, the old bushing becomes a vacuum leak...making it very difficult to get consistent adjustment. So, you might want to test yours for leaks. You could raise idle to say 2500 rpms and spray starter fluid where the shafts enter the carb bodies. If idle changes you might have a leak. Not sure if you can send the bodies to ZT and have them just do the bushing work but might be worth asking.
  9. I will share what I know that might be relevant to your problem. 1) Your car year and the fact that you have 4 screw carbs should mean that you have the float bowl lids with the short ears that the pin slides through to hold the pivoting float assembly. You should have short needle jets in both carbs that are 25.25mm long (measuring from end of threads to end of body...(not including the actual needle that moves in and out of the body). In 72, Nissan changed this so that the front carb uses a longer needle jet (27mm apx) and longer ears on the float bowl lid; the rear carb is the same as the earlier 4 screw carbs. So, it doesn't really make sense that the shorter needle jet wouldn't work on your carbs. They should both be short...front and rear. Questions that come to mind are.... - is the needle jet in your rebuild kit shorter than 25.25mm? If so then maybe it is the wrong kit? - Could your carbs have been swapped with long ear float bowl lids? I personally don't like trying to make the long ear lids work with the short needle jets. I have never been able to add enough washers to work before running out of threads to securely hold the needle jet in place. 2) Personally, I have never been able to get the long ear lids to work reliably. On my 72, I swapped the front lid with a short ear lid from another set of carbs. My recollection is that the lids will interchange regardless of 4 screw or 3 screw. So, on my 72 I run short ear lids and short 25.25mm needle jets. The problem I have with the long ear configuration is that it places the float lower in the float bowl chamber. In my experience this causes the float to hang on the side of the float bowl as it rotates through its motion. The result is a needle jet stuck open and overflowing bowl. I also don't buy into the engine angle argument that resulted in the change to a longer ear in the front carb and thus the changed fuel level measurements described in Technical Bulletin TS73-10. I subscribe to, and many disagree, the method of setting floats where you equalize the fuel level directly at the nozzle tubes with the mixture nut turned 10 full turns down (bigger topic but if you are interested, search and you will find lots of discussion about this method). 3) Finally, I will offer that I have found it really important to make sure the shape of the metal tab that you bend in order to set the float level is relatively flat and not overly curved. The new aftermarket needle jets are thinner than the original ones. Because of this, they get hung on the tabs if the tabs are curved too much. Whatever you do, I think it is really important to spend the time getting the float levels set right. If they are not set right, you will find you can't get the carbs adjusted at or near the 2.5 turns down of the mixture screw. If you find you need 3.5+ turns or 1 turn or the mixture screw turning doesn't elicit any effect, it is a good sign that your floats are not set right.
  10. How did you deal with the portion of the head gasket that extends over the timing cover? Did your's survive removing the timing cover? The only other time I have intended to remove the cover without pulling the engine apart, the head gasket ripped. I thought at the time that I would cut a new replacement gasket but ended up disassembling the engine for other reasons.
  11. @240260280 What do you use the flange Sealant for? Rear main bearing cap seals...left/right? Thanks!
  12. Thought I would resurrect this thread to add some info that I learned yesterday working on my own speedometer problem. My speedometer on my early 72 suddenly stopped working Friday. My first thought was speedometer cable. I removed and verified that it was just fine. Next thing I tested was the gauge. I was really hoping it wasn't the gauge because I see no practical way to pull the gauge without pulling the dash. Seems like some people have done this successfully but I don't think I could. The way I tested the gauge is I attached the cable to the gauge and disconnected from the transmission. I pulled the transmission side of the cable from under the car so I could hold the transmission end while watching the gauge. As Zed Head mentions above, if you pull the cable out a bit and turn while pushing, you can feel the cable seat into the gauge securely. Once seated I simply turned the transmission end of the cable counter clockwise (by hand, no drill needed) and was able to see the speedometer needle move. So, gauge was fine. Next, I removed the speedometer spindle / housing at the transmission. If yours has been in there a long time it can be a little challenging to remove. Tap on it a lot (without damaging threads). Remove the 10mm bolt and metal piece that slides into the spindle housing slot. I used a flat head screwdriver and the housing slot to kind of pry the spindle housing out. Be prepared for transmission fluid to pour out a bit. What I found is that the plastic speedometer gear was damaged badly: the teeth were worn away on one side. I installed a new spare I had on hand and my speedometer works as it should again. Remember to line up the slot square relative to the bolt hole. When you reinstall the spindle and housing, it will feel like there is a lot of resistance. Oil everything up, especially the o-ring (use a new one). Press firmly and it should pop in. Don't hammer (see below). While you are at it, think about whether it is time to replace transmission oil. At a minimum, top off your oil if any leaked out. Finally, connect the speedometer cable at the transmission. Follow what Zed Head wrote.Rotate the cable pulling and pushing until you feel it seat in the gauge. Then, hold it in position and slide the cable into the transmission spindle slot so that the cable will be driven turned as the car moves. Tighten up the bolt by hand. I am not totally sure why this happened. I refreshed the transmission last summer and I remember having a difficult time re-installing the spindle / housing. Could be that I got too aggressive forcing it back in. Hope this helps someone dealing with speedometer issues....and especially eliminate every other possible problem before heading down the path of removing the gauge or worse the dash.
  13. Your 280z is a 76 isn't it? Your intake manifold is the 75/76 variety that doesn't have the webbing between ports. My 75 has a heat shield though that attaches to the underside of the intake manifold. I can't see a heat shield in your photos. If there isn't one, you might reinstall, or locate one and install. If that doesn't cool your rail, you could also wrap your headers or shield them with something like what I used for my 240z manifold. heat shield material
  14. I always assumed, right or wrong, that they were not present on 240z models. My 24k mile 6/72 240z does not have the two piece steel straps / braces.
  15. They are present on my very original 75 280z.
  16. I will share a couple of things with you that you can think about and potentially try out. I do think SU carbs are sensitive to temperature. They are also prone to fuel percolation in the float bowls. When the weather is below about 55 degrees I move the air cleaner to the winter setting which pulls air from the warm area around the exhaust manifold. If you have headers you may want to figure out how to direct the winter air duct to the area around your headers for cooler weather (assuming you have a winter/summer air cleaner housing). On 80+ degree days, I disconnect the winter duct and run a duct from the air cleaner round winter port through the hole in the radiator support so cool air gets pulled from in front of the radiator (so, in this case I set the air cleaner to winter). On fall and spring days between 60 and 80, I use the normal summer mode where air gets pulled from the under-hood area. Also, I was having idling in traffic problems at the start of summer this year. I have an electric fuel pump and I only run ethanol free fuel. After lots of trial and error, I solved the problem by wrapping pretty much every inch of my stock (but ceramic coated) exhaust manifold with the product in the link below. I also wrapped the float bowls. I haven't had idle problems in the heat again. Here is the product I used, though there are lots of ways to accomplish with headers. Heatshield Armor As mentioned above, your plugs look great and your carb float setting must be pretty spot on....key in my opinion to getting these carbs to work right.
  17. I would stick with OEM regulator. I would buy and install in the engine bay a good fuel pressure gauge. Since you are replacing the injectors, I would probably wait and measure PSI with your current regulator before buying a new one. It is important to really understand what psi readings you should see at idle and under load / rev. See FSM and read forum messages. Also, critical to make sure efi electrical connections are solid and clean, no vacuum leaks (follow the tiny vacuum lines that enable hvac controls, boot for afm / throttle body, egr valve, etc), clean fuel, etc.
  18. @johncdeere I have a printed MSA catalog from around 2006. In the "new products" section they have a rear disk brake conversion kit. There are three options. 1) buy all of the brackets, hoses, bolts, etc that you will need. With this kit you had to supply the calipers and rotors. 2) buy all of the above and they supply solid rotors and calipers. 3) buy all of the above and they supply drilled rotors and calipers. In the first option above, you had to supply the following: - 82-83 ZX rotors. - 85-88 Maxima front wheel drive calipers. Also, fyi, I have a 2007 Black Dragon catalog and there is no option for a rear disk conversion kit.
  19. I would be careful about taking it some place and letting anyone swing away at it. They'll get it out....but. I do agree that removing this bolt is on par with spindle pins. Actually, I think it is worse. The good news for me is I am refreshing a 4spd transmission later this month so will enjoy the bolt removal joy again. Best of luck!
  20. I did this last summer and it is very frustrating trying to apply enough force but not damage the bolt. In the end, what worked for me is a combination of what EuroDat and Patcon wrote. I used lots of heat. left the nut on to protect the threads. Tried to avoid heating the bolt and instead direct heat to the fork body. Key though was to use a steel bar resting on the nut so that I could hammer from closer to outside of the housing. I used a 3/8" socket extension with the square side resting on the nut. I would heat and then tap. Eventually, it moved. I bet I worked at it for 2 hours too. Be patient and it will eventually free up.
  21. Do the valves that correspond with the piston you think was replaced look different from the other valves? Maybe a valvetrain issue caused a collision...which caused the head to get worked on but not really rebuilt?
  22. The symptom you are describing is consistent with the flaw I have seen with the older one. The soldered joints become loose and then the pipes move around, fall off, etc. I would use the newer one.
  23. The link below is for the newer style Nissan oil spray bar. I know I have seen it on 75 and 76 280Zs. Not sure when it first appeared. I have seen it cheaper but like anything you may need to wait to find it cheaper. In my experience it is the early spray bar that is prone to failure.
  24. My struggle has always been with the long ear lid. I find it causes the float to hang too low in the bowl and hang against the wall. What is the length if the needle valve you are using for front...long, and rear...short? If I measure the needle valve body...not the threads and not the floating needle...just the full body...I get 18.5mm short 20.5mm long. Any chance you are using a long needle valve in a short ear lid?