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I think that the shift lever issue is a 240Z thing. I had a 78, 81, and 83 5 speed in my 76 at various times. All used the original 4 speed shifter with no problems. Also, I think that Dave WM is talkng about the 225mm versus the 240mm clutches. Different bolt patterns. The clutch collar needs to match the pressure plate height. 92mm. The fork pivot is in the same position on all except the very early 4 speeds.

Isn't this question self-answered? If you're looking and you can't see them then it's hard. There's only eight small screws holding the valve cover on. It would be a good idea to see how things look anyway considering the rest of the engine bay. Take the cover off. Pour some oil on the camshaft lobes. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

All of the seals were still available through Nissan. There is a complete parts list posted by @EuroDat on the forum. With @dave wm help he guided me through resealing two close ratio transmissions. Be sure to change all of the seals including the ones in the shifter housing. I have a small amount of parts not many including the main shaft nut I didn’t need. Also the detent springs and ball bearings are still available as well as the speedo seal. Check out @EuroDat. A plethora of information there. I just took a torch to my shifter and put a small curvature in it to clear 5th gear.

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I don't use the search feature on the forum. I use a Google search and use "site:classiczcars.com" at the end. It will crawl this site alone for results. I get better results this way

Just as another data point, my HLS3016511 made in 12/70 had the 140lb gauge.

Mine wouldn't fully engage 5th because the shift rod hit. You'll see marks where they hit and you grind that down some and it'll go in and stay in 5th. Post #16

Oh and I forgot, does the transmission come with the shifter? if not you may need to look into what it takes to make sure the 4 speed will properly engage esp 5th gear IIRC. there is something about it not allowing the 5th detent to fully engage. easy fix with some minor grinding on the bottom of the shifter. Its well covered in this forum.

Will do. As soon as I know that this whole thing isn't a disastrous failure. Parts on order...

According to my notes, the use of the 140psi gauge ended as of "1/71", somewhere around VIN 020000. This implies that the installation of the 90psi gauge began in Feb-1971. FWIW, the lowest and highest VIN's that I've seen for a 1/71 Z are, respectively, 018482 and 020500. That VIN range should be considered approximate (my VIN database is by no means complete), but the high-end number (which would align with end-of-month builds for January) is ~ 5000 units later than Lily's VIN of 014938 (11/70?) and coincides with a time when Nissan's production rate for the Z was ~ 2500 units/month. There were a lot other changes made to the car's detail design and equipment at the same time, but the "1/71" change date might have been a bit fluid from one item to another so that Nissan could use up existing inventory for the various affected parts. However, it seems unlikely that any of these changes would have pre-dated "1/71".

CO I think the OP might be referring to the hi-lo switch clicker, maybe?? Lost the little nubbin part?

I chatted a bit with you too. It was nice to meet you in person and talk about Z’s. The work you’ve done is impressive, especially with the Volvo a/c, and I like the idea of putting the 350Z seats in the 280Z. I have a 350Z seat on my racing simulator at home and it is pretty comfortable, and my Datsun driver seat is ripped, so you never know… I would have chatted longer, but my son was getting a little antsy. The attention span of an almost 10 year old is only so long. We will be back next year, and if I can get my floors acceptably repaired maybe I’ll even bring my 280Z.

Sorry I missed the show. I was working on a Z... That counts a little!

Indeed 😆 I did go over to the Z section, and talk to a couple of 240Z owners, people around my age. Most of the people around the tent - East Coast Z? were either a fair bit younger or older, and seems pretty much engrossed in their own stuff. Both those guys made that way over to the Volvo section, so I chatted with them a little bit more around my car. One of them ended up hanging out with a bunch of the Volvo guys at the tent.

I think I would lay that harness out on a board and go through it from one end to the other. Check every connector and bulb. Once you get it laid out it isnt quite as daunting. When I got mine all back together, I was having an issue. It turned out to be one terminal on a connector at the passenger firewall was pushed out of place. I was panicked it was something deep under the dash! I have a box of gauges, and maybe a partial dash harness. Let me know if you need anything. Great progress!

Dash all stripped down Pad fell in two when it came off the frame

@zKars, I've got the clutch pedal out of my 280 at this very moment, and no surprise, the clevis pin and it's associated hole in the pedal is worn and needs to be addressed. Not as bad as what 2377kN found, but bad enough that it's time to do something about it. Have you got any pics of your solution where you installed a bearing into the pedal hole? I'm hoping you could save me from reinventing the wheel here. I mean, I could certainly just bore out the hole and use a larger clevis pin, but a bearing... That's sweet.

You should have a sign that says “some assembly required “.

That’s all fine and dandy until the next guy goes by the textbook trying to fix it. Sure it won’t take long to see that it’s jacked up!

Try this... 1) Take the valve cover off. 2) Use a screwdriver to set cylinder #1 at TDC while the two front lobes are pointing up. 3) Look at the timing notch on the crank pulley. It should be pointing at zero. At that point, your distributor rotor is pointing at #1 cylinder spark plug wire. If the rotor is pointing at some crazy direction like 8:30, it means that someone put your oil pump drive shaft in the wrong position. You can either simply readjust the spark plug wires to put wire going to #1 at the same crazy angle where the rotor is pointing, or you can drop the oil pump and realign it to where it SHOULD be pointing. My suspicion is that someone dropped the oil pump in the past and when they reinstalled it, they had the engine on TDC #1, but were on the exhaust stroke instead of on #1 compression. I'll admit it... I've done it.

Like everyone has said before…….you must be at TDC of the compression stroke…..lobes up. My guess is if the car has been running in the past, and hasn’t been taken apart since, your distributor is probably correctly oriented. Looks like you are 180 degrees out……TDC exhaust stroke. Set it TDC compression stroke and your rotor should be pointing approximately toward the little mark on your distributor cap (number 1). Then if you follow the timing firing order going counter clockwise, you should be running and driving.