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I had today off from work, so I continued on the car. I received this today: I came across the thread that @SteveJ posted about these. When I looked up the price, I couldn't believe how cheap they were. $16.92... plus $14.50 in shipping. So, I opted to buy these Koito H4 units for this car, and I will put the Hella ones on my track day 240z. The side profile is a bit different - it sticks out from the headlight housing, and is not my preference vs. the sealed beams, but the light on the road will be much better. Then I started on redoing the quarter windows. Some of the NOS parts that came with the car included these: After careful disassembly, I noted some of these details. A bead of sealant was put along the outside edge of the channel. Also, you can see some of the black paint that was brushed on by the factory worker. This is more evidence that the quarter windows were in place on this car when that person came along with their brush. 🙂 Also, the little corner piece had a lot of window sealant on it, presumably to help lock it in and keep it from moving. The back, upper corners have extra rubber layers which build out that corner a bit. Without them, the sealing in that corner is not sufficient when the window is installed. Pictured is only one of them. Showing some light scratches and the original finish on the stainless outside surface. Also, the edge facing the back of the door is not stainless and is painted semi-gloss black. Masking for glass bead blasting in the cabinet. A close up of the rubber pad in the upper corner, and one glass, cleaned and ready to install. My very old windshield adhesive hardened inside the unopened tube, so I ordered another today, and set the quarter window project aside. Then I installed the Suspension Techniques rear anti-roll bar. Interestingly, I had to open up the holes a touch which mount the bar to the vertical hangers. The bolts would not fit through otherwise. So, a decent amount done today.

Talked to @S30Driver couple of days ago and told him he’s been a topic of conversation and said he was going to return to the forum soon. He’s fine and doing well.

My cnc intake is done! Now to get it here from china.

I have always installed the stainless steel trim AFTER getting the windshield installed on the car. When I tried to put the trim in before installing the windshield onto the car, the trim came out during the installation process. The key to installing the trim after is using lots of Windex. I will typically install one trim edge in the rubber gasket groove, I then lube the other rubber groove generously with Windex and use a small screwdriver to lift the other rubber groove over the stainless steel trim edge. With a nice soft gasket, the second groove will lift over and secure the trim almost like a zipper. Hard gaskets are a bit more difficult, but not bad. For what it's worth, I have installed at least 10 sets of windshields and hatch glass and their respective trim so I am pretty comfortable with it. Also, I blogged the process somewhere on the site here.

This is the best I found for silver, the radio. They use a chrome coating on some interior pieces too. The interior emblems that I painted on the horn pad and console were this "silver" oil based Sharpie I found a hobby shop. Thank you @psdenno for the proper direction you laid on me.

Don't forget to get a good set of LED headlight bulbs to make those H4 housings work well. I like the Auxito brand. These can be used with or without relays. https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-H4-Brighter-9003-Replacement/dp/B0CLG3WZ8S

I would venture to say all the full size spare tire tanks are the same, the 77-78 with the space saver spare is a completely different tank.

Just to add to the conversation, Z432's are not well known outside of Japan. There's a pretty comprehensive thread run by @kats on this site that discusses all the differences between the Z432 and the standard S30 models. The few that have sold in USA have historically traded in the $125k range, with more recent sales pushing into the $250K mark. Jason Cammisa did a piece which featured the Z432 - search "Hagerty Z432" on youtube for more info.

I was finishing up the sanding in the engine bay before spraying the high build primer when I noticed that I had forgot to remove broken battery hold bolt. The epoxy primer was already on so I couldn't use a penetrant without contaminating the primer, same with torch. I had to get a pair of Visegrips in from behind using 2 fingers to clamp on, two fingers to turn the screw 1/8th of a turn, release it, clamp on again, another 1/8th of a turn. That damn little screw took over an hour to work it out. With 95% of the filling done and the epoxy primer blocked out and smooth, I sprayed 2 coats of high build primmer on everything this morning and 3 coats on the doors and hood. Start the real sanding tomorrow.

Sold the 280Z seats I had re-foamed, re-upholstered & added seat heaters to. They are going to a fellow Volvo nut in Santa Rosa CA, who also has a 72 240Z that he put aftermarket seats in 20+ years ago, and had regretted it ever since. Couldn't find a snug box, so I made one from a HD FedEX box, recut & glued to 23x22x37

@grannyknot I use the weatherstrip glue in the corners only, in the outside channel of the pinch weld, on all 4 corners. The bead of sealant extends about 6 to 8 inches from each corner. The corners seem to typically have the worst fit, so I think the sealant in those locations helps. Also, regarding installation, the condition of the gasket is probably a big factor. The soft ones make for a pretty easy install. The hard ones can be a bear.

Maybe it's just me, but I suspect the first thing your machine shop is going to do is convert your drawing to English system. With that in mind, I'd just do it for them. I know any machinist ought to be able to do the conversion, but I'd just do it for them. Also, is the pinion shaft diameter smaller than 35mm? If so, you're good. But if the shaft is right at 35mm OD, then a 35mm ID spacer isn't going to fit over it. You'll need to open up the ID a couple thousandths just to get it to fit and not bind when you try to slide it on the shaft. As for material, I think 1045 in the annealed state would be a reasonable choice. It should certainly be harder than the 1008 stuff.

Wow! That must have made quite the noise!

Another cool Nissalco 1960'-70s (I think item) is this brake bleeder set up. I gather its so the user can bleed the brakes themselves. One currently on Yahoo Japan auctions (at the time of writing) new, and I have 1 too. Very cool.

This dealership likes to offer sales of 10-18 percent off the 'green" price, so in-between sales they are high on some parts. The sale price seems more inline with the Courtesy pricing. I don't usually buy from Amazon. eBay can be hit or miss too. Sometimes you get great deals though. You have to watch it like a hawk, as there is a lot of competition.

Thanks for the info on the Z432's, guys. Was pretty much unaware of these, good to learn something new.

PS30's or Z432's have been selling in the $300k range for some time, just like their counterpart KPGC10/KPGC110 Skyline GTRs - which have routinely sold for even more and share the same engine (S20)/parts. https://www.facebook.com/GTRRegistry/posts/new-record-price-for-1973-nissan-skyline-2000-gt-r-kpgc110-with-43460km-sells-fo/1513442172144533/ Jan 2023 This was at the height of Covid madness though!

Also, not a fan of trimmer filament. It is a small diameter and has a tendency to cling to the rubber lip and potentially tear the gasket lip (ask me how I know). I prefer to use a quarter inch diameter nylon cord/rope for the process. It's a bit more gentle on the rubber and comes out of the groove easier during the install process.

Yes, it's a Z432. Not really comparable to any other S30

Kano Kroil is your friend !! https://www.kroil.com/

Happy New Year Nick from North Carolina!! I just took some pics a few hours ago for you. My very first repair was done in August 2009 using SEM Bumper Epoxy and after ~3yrs it started to crack again. The 2nd repair on Dash was done in August 2013 (see the 3 dark pics) and today Jan 7th 2024 (the last 5 pics), 10-1/2yrs later the dash has held up real well for me using Six-10 Epoxy. I dug out as much as possible, used the Foam Stuff and then flared Six-10 epoxy at least 1inch beyond the areas I had used SEM Bumper Epoxy. I do have a very small crack that surfaced about 5yrs ago in the center as you can see where obviously my Six-10 epoxy repair was not adequate given it was to close to the windshield and I had a hard time filling, flaring and sanding with the epoxy. To be honest it's not even noticeable while in the car and I have used black shoe polish to fill it if I go to a high end car show just to eliminate the appearance. I am a hug fan using Six-10 Marine epoxy and used it on many car and boat projects. It spreads amazingly, cures hard and sands smooth quite easily. Overall it was the best decision yet laborious task I did to finish off the interior. Especially since it's been kept in a non-climate controlled garage in NC where summer temps in the garage can reach 100F often. Only regret was not doing this when I had the windshield out being replaced! Many thanks for asking! Mark

Well, the person I reached out to has not seen the Jims since Branson Z Fest. That was over 7 months ago. 😟