Leaderboard

He's changed a lot in 5 years! He's 6'7"+. He's a Caterpillar heavy equipment field mechanic

I’m just saying that if a sweet biscuit wants to pose on my Z, I’m doing the horizontal mambo with her.

Nothing wrong with having the axles balanced but because they turn approximately 3 1/2 times slower than the drive shaft I've never experienced or heard of a balance problem with them. Driveshaft balance problems are very common however.

Maybe the return orifice is blocked?

So funny.. only bad ENGLISH words are going to be deleted! A antf*cker is someone that it very very critical on how things get done.. very precise people.. often giving headages to others haha!

Hey, Charles, i just took a look at your picture on the frontpage of your topic and i thought it would be nice when you have your project finished to take a pic like that and put it at the end of this story accompanied with the first pic! We might get to see some gray hairs? (or even yellow hair from the paintbooth! 😁 )

If you are restoring a car, take a lot of pictures. Even then, you still didn't take enough pictures. If you are restoring a car, never throw anything away. No matter how poor the condition. You will need it for reference later. Oh and when you are young, become thick skinned when your wife refers to your car as "that stupid Datsun". It will enable you to follow Dutchzcarguy's suggestion "Buy more 240z's".

I have finished installing the new OEM U-joints in my axles. Here is a separate thread about it if you want to check that out. It took roughly 12 hours to do what I thought might take 2. The snap rings are a pain in the butt, and the odd angle on the axle output flanges make u-joint removal and installation in a press way more difficult than it should be. Plus, getting the tolerances right, and measuring to confirm they are, takes a lot of time. Definitely best to get all that done before priming and painting them. I am actually thinking of sending them off to have them balanced, so I will likely hold off on priming or painting them until they come back. After he better part of a day and half of working on them, I decided to clean up the shop a bit. This "shelf" for some of my 240Z parts is incredibly dusty after years of doing body work on the 240Z in my garage: Someday, not too far off in the distance, this will become my primary project!

I think someone was here before me, so too late not to change anything. I examined only one of the axles with regard to the arrows I mentioned at the beginning of this thread. The arrows pointed to a "flatter" of the four corners of the trunnion, but they were not drilled and tapped for grease fittings. The relationship was 90 degrees one to the other, not 180, or in alignment. Thanks for the tip about brass jaws. I was able to get the snap rings matched up for each opposing journal pair. .062" was the most common size snap ring I needed to use. If I recall correctly, the new snap rings which came in the package with each of the new u-joints were of the following sizes: .060", .061", .062" and .064", .065", .066" There were 12 supplied with each u-joint - two each of those sizes. Oddly, .063" seemed not to be present. I carefully lapped two .064" snap rings to get the .063" I needed. With the axle in the vise and using the dial gauge, I was able to confirm about .001" of free play axially for each direction on the trunnion. The u-joints feel a bit "heavy" in their movement. However, I am certain after very careful checking that the free play is what it should be. I could see the needle on the dial gauge move easily and then stop, as I applied pressure to move the u-joints up and down in their installed state. I may very well send the axles off for balancing. Since I am installing a 240SX transmission, I may need to get a driveshaft made also. If I can use my driveshaft as is, which may be possible, I will likely send it off for balancing with the axles. Numbers indicate the snap ring used in thousandths at each location with opposite journals using same sizes, of course.

She must have dented the fender by now, and is no longer a friend.

@dutchzcarguy@RandallaWell I couldn’t sleep, so I bought a set of used Turbo Z wheels for my 300ZX. I took them to Alloy Wheels of Richmond (great folks) and had them dipped and powder coated. They came out beautiful. Wrapped ‘em with BF Goodrich G Force Comp 2’s. The rears are 245 50 ZR 16 and fronts are 225 50 ZR 16’s. You’ll notice they are correctly mounted as factory wanted. Sleeping like a baby!

Just an update regarding carsteering.com racks. And I love to make posts in really old threads..... Checked today and Car Steering is still listing racks for the 280 as having 10+ in stock. Price is $260 + shipping. 240 racks are out of stock. 280 racks are same just need the right bushings for wider flange on the Left side. https://www.carsteering.com/buynow/1976/Nissan/280Z/Rack_and_Pinion/80-70087_AN Don't forget that Techotoy now makes all new steering racks for S30 https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/ultimate-steering-rack-240z $695 list. $895 with their tie rod ends

@siteunseen The picture was taken when I just installed the pump. The pre-filter is full of fuel - that was the first thing I checked this morning. It has become a habit to check on rust coloring of the inside of the tank. @Yarb The previous car owner replaced the original Bosch with an Autozone unit (looked like the 8312) which later quit on me (that was when I installed my 1st MSD unit). Would it be a good idea during the winter to occasionally run the pump?

Did you originally have the factory Bosch pump on the car? I know a lot of folks have gone the cheaper route with aftermarket pumps. A lot of threads out there with the aftermarket pump issues.

I've got 2 Zs with the plastic pre pump filter. They stay full of fuel. Does yours? It looks close to empty in your pic which could be something simple in the flow direction. If those pumps aren't fed adequately they'll overheat and live a short life.

Lower fender to rocker bolt.

It's hard to imagine that Nissan would have a had a fixture that aligns the companion flange or transmission shaft with the future center line of the propeller or drive shaft, so that a worker could choose the proper snap ring thickness, while measuring play. More likely that they had a set of go/no-go gauges and sorted the shaft yokes by the width between the ears and assigned them a snap-ring color. The area between the areas would have been cut with the center of the yoke as the reference point. I think that somebody rebuilt that u-joint in the past and just used the wrong color or was colorblind, or didn't care.

My 7/70 has the plastic pivot bracket.

Here are some pics that might help that I took as I was disassembling my 7/70. Basically as you described. HTH Mike

Thanks Cliff !! (I sit most times.. start most times, from the home page and then i don't see those pics.. ) I take a look at: Topics last 24 hours!

Looks great! Happy Easter!

Good questions. I see the label has "deux temps". I think that is French. A Google search seems to indicate the french use lb-po^2. It is equivalent to psi. My compressor pump is an "inline 2", with the cylinders side by side. One is smaller than the other. The larger one is the low pressure part of the pump, and the smaller one is the high pressure part. Looking at the paperwork I have for it, I see I bought it on 11/01/1997 for $709.77. 🙂 I bought my glass bead cabinet at the same time - just after I bought my first garage (with a house attached hahaha). It was my first expensive tool purchase. I was 28... It will be a sad day when/if this compressor wears out. But we are both getting old!

Pictures of my compressor: 55 I was able to adjust the new switch to kick in around 120 and turn of at about 155, just as before.

Don't take your car apart until you have too! Restore smaller sections and sub-assemblies as you go. Then repaint and reassemble. In the meantime you have a running car you can enjoy instead of a shop project

Took the tires to get balanced . They said 3 of 4 wheels were not running true - bent .

Picked up a mint condition 240Z last year that was mostly stock. So far I've upgraded wheels, redoing the interior, and added BC Racing coilovers. I'm planning on doing further mods to suspension and replacing the brakes. I have a decent budget for both though nothing crazy since this is pretty much a weekend car and will never see anything more than occasional spirited canyon drives. My goal is to complete suspension and brakes by this summer and start on the engine (L28) sometime in the fall.