Leaderboard

A little progress this weekend, but nothing significant. I am still waiting on my carbs to come back from Ztherapy. Hopefully in a week or so.

Got the wiring harness tidied up before I trimmed the junction area The decel bypass solenoid connector didn't look any better than this EGR one, so I cut that off & replaced it Volvo used a somewhat similar connector, with better waterproofing, through the early 90's, so I replaced it with that type Removed the EGR solenoid, valve, vacuum & exhaust tube while I was there - had to put a helicoil in one stud location blocked off the exhaust manifold port Made a blanking plate & added an elbow 10mm quick release for the booster line. I reinstalled the Datsun check valve, I found that the PO's tech had installed it backwards, with the grey side pointing at the intake. No wonder there were notes on the brake booster not feeling right. crimping all the Delphi terminals - 16way for injectors (12) Decel solenoid, Coolant gauge, and ECT The TPS, CSV, Thermal timer, AAR are in the Sumitomo TS hybrid 090/187 housing on the right Back together & running. Didn't resolve the cold start issue entirely. I need to add a pressure gauge & see what the pump is doing, and actually function test the CSV/timer circuit

Here are some pics of the 355 mile '76 280Z that sold on BaT in 2020, It has Sumitomo leads that look the same as those you have @ea6driver https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-39/

Whoops, forgot to post my solution. The mechanical linkages all have a threaded portion at the ball socket in order to legthen or shorten the rods. Thus, I tightened these and no more slop at the pedal:) One day I will probs switch to a cable, but this fix postpones that for at least a few years!

Or if it's Lucas, it's a smoke fitting.

View Advert 1973 240Z Switch Set UPDATE: Sale Pending. Totally refurbished set of LHD turn signal and light switches. The combo light switch is close to a like-new condition. The plastic stalk elements are shiny and free of scratches. The wiring is in perfect condition. The turn signal shows a slight loss of plating, the lever has a fresh gloss black finish. Wiring is in near perfect condition with only discoloration on one connector. The contacts on both switches have been cleaned and polished, and have been continuity checked for proper operation. The switches are available individually or as a set. Each switch is $250, the set is priced at $450, a 10% discount. Standard domestic shipping is included, foreign shipping is available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks! Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 04/03/2023 Price $450 Category Parts for Sale

I found these spark plugs wires in a box of Z parts I've probably had stored for over 25 years...and I'm trying to decide whether to keep them, sell them, or throw them away. They are made by Sumitiomo. Two of the spark plug boots are angled (#1 and #6). They all measure under 8K resistance (it looks like they are labeled 16K). Additionally they are labeled "1986". As you can see from the photos they are in very good overall condition. Though I can't remember, I'm thinking that I must have removed/replaced them with aftermarket wires at some point. Can anyone tell me if these are unusual, special or rare in any way for Datsun Z cars? (mine is a 78). Was this plug wire set an original set Datsun used on Z cars from the factory?

Thank you all for the comments and info on my Somitomo plug wires...I at least know now that I definitely shouldn't just throw them in the trash. I think I'll try and clean them up as best I can (probably won't get them to look as good as those in the pics above) and install them to check their functionality. Wish they were labeled "1978"!

thanks Zed Head for the help!!! I did take your suggestion today. I used the blue wire at the coil and with the early 74 ingition module removed. I had no continuity from the blue wire to the signal wire at the tach. I did try wiring direct again from the msd 6a tach output to the back of the tach and it works great. now when I did try that before, I was using the fan override switch in the cab to turn the fan on and the tach would drop, but I never let the engine warm up. [ too much load] now when the engine is cold it will idle at about 650 rpms and when fully warm up it will idle about 850 -900 rms. so with the lower rpms it looks like the alternator was not putting out enough. I am still using the stock charging system with a 50amp alternator, and also using the external voltage regulator. but I still can't use the electronic flasher, could be with some 90% led bulbs, but that is no big deal. thank you very much again for your help. you are a great forum member. kully

240's had Yazaki leads, at least for 1970 & 71. I'm not sure about after that. The 1970 dated leads have a straight boot on the plug end of the number 6 lead, they changed to the angled boot on number 6 for 1971. Here is a link with pics I found and posted previously.

I would say those are original wires. They may actually work fine. I definitely wouldn't chunk them. Someone might have an interest even just for shows

Patcon, I know you live not too far from me. If you’re interested in a rust free 1964 Ragtop VW without an engine let me know. I need to get rid of it because it’s stored at my moms house and she’s sold the property. The chassis was already repainted and I was going to rebuild it but don’t have space and my wife would kill me if I brought another car here. She barely tolerated the Z. I’ve had this car for 20+ years. Probably going to let it got for $800 or less.

I bought some from AC carpet in alabama i belief they are.. sended me the wrong ones for a 2 seater instead of the 2+2.. i found out when i was to late to return them. they make one for the 280zx maybe also for the 280z.. BUT.. they don't make the rear part with the openings for the straps.. all sayd.. they make a bad copy. 🤢 Yours looks like someone (tried to) paint(ed) it with some black interior paint?

Sumitomo sounds familiar.. the 240z has them but i think.. only with a no 6 angled sparkplug boot? As these cables are now over 35 years old i don't think they can work very well. After a good clean they could be used on a engine that's under someone's coffeetable just for the looks! (It's possible that the 280z original has 2 angled sp.pl.boots.. as my 280zx has 2 two eh too twoo too.. 2 also eh sigh😁..) My experience with old cables.. About 2 years ago i did about 1000 km on my 280zx resto and those sparkplugcables were the original 1979 cables, they worked well (some special isolating spray over them) but.. i'm now restoring the engineroom ( for over 2 years! sigh) and already installed some orig. nissan leads that i bought some years ago special for this restore. I'm not sure these are sumitomo, but came out a nissan box..

I had the vendor delete the cut out for the cigarette lighter but instead send a little extra leather so I could make a cone after cutting out a hole for it. Now I'm considering deleting the cigarette lighter and possibly the dimmer and trip odometer controls. This is going to be a very frustrating project. I have the leather partially installed now and the holes for the speedometer and tachometer are going to be a problem as will the hole for the driver-side vent. I've tried using water with a little neat's foot oil mixed in for the initial soaking and rubbing alcohol and water for subsequent soakings so the leather will stretch. Then water and a hair dryer to shrink the leather in other areas. The 3M brand Fastbond 30-NF contact cement is fantastic. It is a water based, low odor, water cleanup contact cement with great hold properties. I was able to find a gallon on facebook/marketplace not too far from me at a reasonable price. I had asked the vendor to use black thread on the remake but he did it in red like the first one. I might keep it red as it is not bad looking after all.

I did find the problem today with the tach bouncing. I removed the cec electronic flasher for the turn signals and the hazard lights and no more bouncing of the tach with the turn signals and hazard lights. I did reinstall the oem niles flashers back in. now I wired the msd 6a tach output directly to the tach and it does work fine. except when the cooling fan comes on it does drop at idle about 400 rpms momentarily. I then wired back in the v-booster and had to use 3-100k ohm resistor in parallel so I would get 33.3 ohms total between the v-booster tach output and the tach input, and everything still works great but now when the cooling fan does come on the rpms only drop about 200 rpms momentarily. making headway!!!!

It's easy to f#@k up an AFM.

Trying to make sense of the dial up more fuel thinking. Mine is about half way between 0 and 10 on the volume knob. That's back to normal running on my 280. Resistance is trying to cut my dog's toenails.

I thought it was for the hairspray. You know...brushes and all that a starter needs.

Another 1st Sunday of the month with great weather meant the Zs showed up again.

Here's what I went by. It's really easy and even easier to remove if it doesn't help. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

I have a soft spot for Beetles. At least old ones. I learned to drive in one. I still have it, although it needs a lot of love now. My dad bought it new in Germany in 1956. Basically a one owner car

My autocross car has triple TWM/Borla throttle bodies. Tried to make the OEM style linkage work, but gave up and went with a silicone jacketed cable that I got from Pegasus Racing.

Looking at the video, it appears that the plastic ball socket up at your throttle body is cracked and a chunk is missing. That may account for some amount of play beyond what is considered "normal", but honestly I think it's just the nature of the beast. There are something like seven mechanical joints in the system and each one of them is a contributor to the total play. Add to that years of use and wear, and you have the pedal uncertainty principle. If you want to get rid of all of the play, the only real option is completely bailing on the original linkage and changing over to a custom cable system. That's what I did.