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So I did go ahead and pop this one. I used a towel just in case it wanted to go into multiple pieces. It broke pretty clean I will try to glue it up later. I didn't feel like it today. Worked on the LSD brace today Got it in I also hung the ST sway bars I've had for 5 years or so I had to do some slight clearancing where it met the LSD brace. The inner fenders had foam on them as I recall. Do they have it on both edges or just one edge?

So, I always wondered about this ZDDP oil additive and how it worked and why it’s difficult to find. This morning I stumbled on this video that was really informative. Thought I’d share it.

The splash guards mount directly to the body, no foam. The outer edge gets foam to seal it against the fender. Great work on getting Lily back together!

I was just starting the work on the 240Z master and slave cylinders when I heard a truck pull up in the driveway. I went out to investigate and found out it was a delivery from MSA.

I had to replace the master and slave cylinders on the 240Z, so I shot some video. I have to put it together now. Unfortunately one of the cameras wasn't recording when I thought it was. I need to check the other camera, as well. On the other hand, I did try my hand at reverse bleeding on the clutch, pushing the fluid up through the slave. It took a while, but the reservoir on the master did fill. So I have to check tomorrow to see if I have good clutch feel. Eventually, I'll get the video put together, too.

Go with both, stock wheels and hubcaps/wheelcovers for shows etc, and aftermarket wheels for the drive. Or even widened stock rims for the drive, with the hubcaps off.

Gonna be tricky getting the front cover on with the head and oil pan on tight.

Getting ready for 01/01/23 photo of slumbering Z. Keith

Thanks, Jim I'm trying to be more diligent about getting something done every week. Would like to have a runner this summer. That's a pretty big hill to climb. We'll see...

Great work!

This was my truck saturday morning heading to duck hunt.....in SC!! Just not right, it isnt supposed to get this cold for this long around here. Tons of broken pipes all over the upstate. Luckily very few issues for us. I feel for the families that left for the holiday and came home to a flooded house.

A friends car was exhibiting something similar. He would crank the engine and it would sound like it was spinning, but not start. Sometimes it would start and run well. Come back a while later and it would not start. We went down the same route suspecting the solenoid and/or starter. We took the valve cover off and it looked like the valves wee operating, oil was spraying etc. When it was in the failing state to check spark via the distributor, we turned the crank with a socket and ratchet. It seemed to turn way too easily like there was no compression. He did a compression check and two cylinders were zero (engine cold because it would not start it to warm it up). A couple of hours later he repeated the compression check and low and behold it registered much higher, but not normal. The car started and again it ran well. Turns out it was a couple of stuck valves - that is when he revealed that he had put some old gas in to dispose of or use up. Unlikely that you are having the same issue, but it may be worth eliminating. Hope it resolves soon.

Hi Gavin, looks like you have got the same one as mine , you also selected the black steering wheel! You need a boss to attach, let me know if you need one, RS Mach is just 30 minutes drive from my house. Kats

White ChriZmas here in Oregon for all Z big and small. Enjoy the season!

The guy I work for is doomsday prepper and has a huge house about half a mile from me. Generac that uses natural gas to run a 4 cylinder Ford motor and a walk in liquor/wine cellar. Always welcome so I hope my power goes out.

I've watched my Dad whack the solenoid with the handle end of a big screwdriver and it fixed it for how long I'm not too sure. If it's an older starter clean the contacts and make sure the small wire up top seats onto the terminal good and tight. All of the connections while your bent over. I've read shining the ground metal on the starter fixed one. The black one from the battery to the starter mount bolt. Good luck!

Yep, that's the place. It was called Revivations at the time. While all this body stuff was going on, I took the engine up to a machine shop in Tampa run by a guy named Tom and his son, Tommy. A real dirt track racers place, these guys were good machinists. The engine was cleaned and checked. The cylinders spec'd to standard bore. The crank shaft, fly wheel, and front pully were balanced together and Tom told me that I would notice the difference. The engine was way out of balance. The connecting rods were weight balanced and the original pistons were reinstalled with new wrist pins. Now, in spite of what you might think of my stockafied approach to what is correct and what is not, I'm not a huge fan of the "stock" HLS30 / 240Z. Great starting point, but... The engine was assembled (new freeze plugs) with a Schneider (mild) can and an Arizona Z adjustable timing sprocket. The combustion chambers in the head were cc'd and equaled. A competition front pulley was installed along with a competition oil pump. The early engines have an odd assortment of head bolt lengths and I was fortunate enough to find them new from Nissan. I'll bet they are all gone by now. Blue paint came from Banzai.

After another failed attempt to bleed, I consulted a friend who confirmed my worst fear. The actuating rod on the MC was too short. Why was that my worst fear? It means I have to try to put the clevis pin back in the *#&$ hole again. I'm not sure my body can take it. I swapped the rods between the old and new MC and bolted the new MC back into place...again. Now to go back out to the garage and take my lumps as I wrestle to put the clevis pin back in. *Sigh*

Well, I shot some video to watch the slave cylinder while I pushed on the clutch. No pressure, and no movement. I guess I'll try again tomorrow. 😒