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It's more of a hot weather problem. But it is something to be aware of. Another thing to be aware of is the quality of today's mechanical fuel pumps. Quite a bit on the forum about problems there. So even if you get an eccentric you might still have a problem. You can do a fair check of the pump by moving the lever by hand. It's just a part of owning an old Z car. Each model and year seems to have their own special problems. I'm posting doom in everyone's thread. I'll take a break.

So 3 months later we're at it again. So we worked on getting the timing set on and prepping the head gasket. The dark gasket i the old gasket off the L16. I believe the new gasket i off a KA motor?? It needs a number of holes added So I tried a round hole punch but the metal in the gasket just stretched Then we tried drilling the holes I finally settled on dremel tools We put the guides on and found out the chain in our timing set was too short. In actuality I have the wrong timing set, which is too bad because I can't return it now. 😞 So I ordered the correct one. We are also concerned about piston valve interference, so I ordered some clay to do some measuring

Since you have the valve cover off now is a good time to verify all of your timing marks and check your timing chain for wear. Set your damper mark at zero, make sure the tight side of the chain is tight, check the notch and groove alignment, check the distributor timing marks. Determine where everything is now so that when you're trying to get it running you'll know your starting point. It will save a lot of fumbling around later.

I think that dutchz means that there is a plate missing. If it was a bike or motorcycle chain we'd call it the "master link". Not sure that Nissan timing chains have one though. But, considering the odd fuel pump who knows what the PO did in there.

That is the correct position to put a Z on a lift. There is no other way.

Haha, I don’t believe it’s ever been started in its current configuration. Doubt the pump would run off the cam bolt head like that [emoji23]. PO just slapped the carbs and mechanical pump on to have it appear “complete”, then sold it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, the yellow paint in that picture above is fairly conservative. IMO too neatly done, the paint marks thin and aligned. I think the factory application was far more sloppy.

Did someone mention V-3 kit? The following is an edited version of an article I wrote for the Z Car Club of Northern Virginia many moons ago when we still had a monthly newsletter. 1972/73 found me working as a mechanic at a Datsun dealer in Bethesda, MD. We sold our first 73 240 to a member of the Redskins football team as a promotion. Only problem was it got towed back to the dealership for the next 3 consecutive evenings - so much for the promotion. This was in the early fall when the weather was still pretty warm and the car was exhibiting very rich symptoms. The owner of the dealership was pretty pissed as his name was starting to turn to mud with the guy who had bought the car with a lot of hype. Long story short, about a week later we were visited by 2 engineers from Nissan Japan. We were the only dealer within bunch of miles of the Eastern headquarters in NJ that had a modern chassis dynamometer. For the next week or so these engineers and one of our mechanics spent most of their time with the Z in question on the dyno and on the roads surrounding greater Bethesda. The result of their work was the V-3 kit. The kit included an electric fuel pump, fuel pump relay, asbestos like/aluminized engine compartment fuel line wrapping, carb floats and needles and a handful of other parts that, when the weather was warm, did little to address the problem(s). Until Datsun/Nissan could start fitting the kits at the factory it was up to dealer mechanics to install the V-3s to those cars already in distributor/dealer hands. A real rush was put on the program and we started getting kits about a week or so later. What was the problem? Adding an EGR system to the induction system raised under hood temps a great deal and moving the float bowls from the side of the carb to the bottom of the carb often resulted in fuel percolation as there was almost no movement of air in the very confined space between the float bowls and the exhaust manifold. . The 1969-1972 240s vented the carb float bowls into the atmosphere through the air filter housing. The 73s and 74s couldn't do that anymore because of tightened emissions regulations. Those years vented the float bowl, now mounted in a confined and hot space, directly into the venturi. Now you had hot fuel vapors, unmetered, entering the venturi resulting in a very rich condition and LOUSY performance. More later.

Anyway.. i would check about anything on that car when i saw those things like that fuelpump without the eccentric! So check if the engine turns without hitting some valves or leak oil/coolant. check if there is cooling and oil and when started keep a close look at the temperature.. Also watch for fuelleaks.. (as that fuelpump has never worked in that config.)

A chain has 2 ends.. they meet at one point.. (in your case ON that picture AT 3 o'clock !! You know what 3 o'clock means? that's to the right of the middle bolt, seen from the front.) It looks like there is the closing lock.. It's to long ago for me that i looked at the timing of a L28 but there should be a chain lock in your chain were the ends are connected.. I see something odd in the chain at 3.. Just check the chain for irregularities. Also if you can bend the chain in the wrong way to much it's worn and needs to be replaced. If the chain is very loose replace it anyway. If your chain is like this one.. not bending (to much) in the wrong way, it's still good.. (On a Heuer Front bench vice.. one of the best there are.. 😉 )

I'd love to see it also. I'll bet it doesn't mention anything regarding series 1, 1.5, 2 or 3 cars in there either. Haha.

Cant see what kind of mechanical pump you have, but it is possible to rebuild the original ones with quality parts. I ran a l28 block e31 head with a mechanical pump years ago. I only recall hard starts when really hot or if it had been sitting a long time.

Your good friend…

No electric pump. It’s a 72 240z with a L28 that the previous owner dropped in, but never fully finished, as I’m finding out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Google is your friend. https://www.google.com/search?q=fuel+pump+eccentric+240Z&oq=fuel+pump+eccentric+240Z&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160j33i15i22i29i30.6975j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I have never seen one of those. I would buy one, definitely!

Botched dog leg repair. If they willingly did that, then the whole car is suspect.

1970 Datsun 240Z | eBay Where to not lift a z 😑

Yeah I know what it is, I just think it's a bit overkill

I probably have an eccentric laying around if you need one. Just PM me.

I was going through my stash of factory service literature and refound this. It's a training aid for parts personnel that taught them how to identify Datsuns from day 1 in the US through about 1975. If you see one for sale don't hesitate. It's really cool and very informative as well as a reliable source of correct model info.

My '72 (07/71) is a real bear to start with the chokes disconnected. I also live in So. Cal. Not worth the trouble to remove them, imho.

At some point (it may have already passed...) it will become necessary to define what market sub-variant is being referred to. Production date will also be a factor with regard to detail changes. For example: I have a no-hole 'splash pan' hanging up on the wall of one of my garages. Obviously the splash pans were part of the original design for the L-Series engined cars across the board (because the fixing points are there on each car and we see them in the early factory literature) so the question then becomes whether they were being fitted consistently across all markets and models. USA/Canada may have been an outlier here considering the other examples of de-contenting in those markets. I can't imagine why dealers would go to the trouble of removing them from new cars? Here in the UK the splash pans had a reputation for not being re-fitted after servicing (especially after an oil change) but that was typically laziness rather than any kind of policy. I remember we had several conversations on here about the splash pans in the past. The finish question (as far as I remember) concluded that the photos in the service manuals may have used unpainted (Zinc plated?) pans to allow them to be seen more clearly, but there were anecdotes of silver (?) pans being sighted on production cars too. My experience is that all of the 'early' style (no holes) pans I have come across were painted black and I have certainly seen black painted pans supplied as replacement parts, complete with Nissan parts sticker. So - in reference to this "eZperts" thread - I don't think it will be possible to make a definitive conclusion as to whether a particular car would have had a splash pan or not, apart from pointing out that it was part of the original design...

Alexa is my main squeeze, then Xfinity's support girls are my stood by's. I like the way they call me "Mr Vealson".