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Did someone mention V-3 kit? The following is an edited version of an article I wrote for the Z Car Club of Northern Virginia many moons ago when we still had a monthly newsletter. 1972/73 found me working as a mechanic at a Datsun dealer in Bethesda, MD. We sold our first 73 240 to a member of the Redskins football team as a promotion. Only problem was it got towed back to the dealership for the next 3 consecutive evenings - so much for the promotion. This was in the early fall when the weather was still pretty warm and the car was exhibiting very rich symptoms. The owner of the dealership was pretty pissed as his name was starting to turn to mud with the guy who had bought the car with a lot of hype. Long story short, about a week later we were visited by 2 engineers from Nissan Japan. We were the only dealer within bunch of miles of the Eastern headquarters in NJ that had a modern chassis dynamometer. For the next week or so these engineers and one of our mechanics spent most of their time with the Z in question on the dyno and on the roads surrounding greater Bethesda. The result of their work was the V-3 kit. The kit included an electric fuel pump, fuel pump relay, asbestos like/aluminized engine compartment fuel line wrapping, carb floats and needles and a handful of other parts that, when the weather was warm, did little to address the problem(s). Until Datsun/Nissan could start fitting the kits at the factory it was up to dealer mechanics to install the V-3s to those cars already in distributor/dealer hands. A real rush was put on the program and we started getting kits about a week or so later. What was the problem? Adding an EGR system to the induction system raised under hood temps a great deal and moving the float bowls from the side of the carb to the bottom of the carb often resulted in fuel percolation as there was almost no movement of air in the very confined space between the float bowls and the exhaust manifold. . The 1969-1972 240s vented the carb float bowls into the atmosphere through the air filter housing. The 73s and 74s couldn't do that anymore because of tightened emissions regulations. Those years vented the float bowl, now mounted in a confined and hot space, directly into the venturi. Now you had hot fuel vapors, unmetered, entering the venturi resulting in a very rich condition and LOUSY performance. More later.

I was going through my stash of factory service literature and refound this. It's a training aid for parts personnel that taught them how to identify Datsuns from day 1 in the US through about 1975. If you see one for sale don't hesitate. It's really cool and very informative as well as a reliable source of correct model info.

You sold me a bad rim...

I have a 2.8L that’s been converted to a mechanical fuel pump. However I popped the valve cover off today and found that no fuel pump eccentric was ever installed.[emoji849] Is the eccentric the same for 240z, 260z, 280z? If so, anyone know where I can find one? Anything special about the install? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alexa is my main squeeze, then Xfinity's support girls are my stood by's. I like the way they call me "Mr Vealson".

Google is your friend. https://www.google.com/search?q=fuel+pump+eccentric+240Z&oq=fuel+pump+eccentric+240Z&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160j33i15i22i29i30.6975j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

maybe the mechanical pump is for looks along with the carbs. does it have an electric pump as well?

I've not heard Queen without Freddie singing. This is pretty cool with the drummer Rodger Taylor doing the singing.

1972 Datsun Z-Series 240Z | eBay Wow what happend here ? 🙄

Yeah I know what it is, I just think it's a bit overkill

The guy needs a proper hammer. He must be a carpenter. I have a number of hammers in my toolbox, and none of them have a claw. I keep my framing hammer with my carpentry tools.

thank you i’m going to order a timing light today and give it a go on friday . Appreciate all the help

Well, first you need a timing light. You may want to get a higher end one if you think you'll own old cars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVU8J8 Next you want to locate and clean your timing marks on the engine block. After that, rotate your engine to TDC and find the mark on the engine pulley. You will probably want to mark it with a dab of white paint. White nail polish is great for this. Get a baseline timing. If it's not at 15 degrees, turn off the car and loosen the bolt on the distributor. It's on the bottom side of the mounting point. (See photo) Start the engine again. To increase timing (more degrees), rotate counter clockwise (A - advance). To decrease timing, rotate clockwise (R - retard). Keep measuring your timing, shooting for about 15 degrees. If you cannot rotate the distributor enough with that adjustment, you may need to loosen the other bolt. First, rotate the distributor so it's in the middle of the indicator. Then loosen the other bolt on the distributor. Rotate the distributor just like you did before with the engine running and checking timing. If you can't get it close to 15 degrees with both bolts loose, something isn't right. After you get the timing set, make sure you secure both bolts so your timing doesn't change.

I often find it hard to find the more classic style carpets, usually I can only find cutpile. Newark Auto offers the 80/20 loop which I have heard matches stock carpets a lot better. Here is a link to the coupe, but I would send an email or surf their website further for the 2+2. https://newark-auto.com/products/f24a-11-nissan-260z

I am not sure this is a good repair. I'm not worried about crumple zones in a Z car. Let's face it the driver is the crumple zone! John at Bad Dog rails makes a replacement piece for this exact area and is very insistent that they not be welded in continuously. Evidently that extra rigidity in the floor causes problems or cracking in other areas of the car. I believe it was in Atlanta he and I were talking to Matsuo San (?) about the lead joints at the A pillars and quarter panels and he expressed that it was so the car could "breathe" ie flex. So those areas are very important to the over all structure of the car. Overly reinforcing one area forces the flexing to a different area with unpredictable consequences. Caveat Emptor...

I think it's overkill.. 1,0 to 1,4 mm steel is more than enough, i had to remove a floor that was made of much to thick steel.. when i took it out some 25 kg of steel fell to the floor.. i replaced it with 1mm steel and the car got a bit faster! Also... never weld steel over some old steel it will always create a mountain of rust!! Always weld head to head.. so: 1 not necassary.. 2 much to heavy (= slower car.) 3 covering is asking for rust.. (Weld some steel IN it not OVER it!) 4 If done on the front, you take out the crumple zone.. you create a even more dangerous car to drive.. I once seen a car that had those fat beams in the front (over the front wheels), It's dangerous to do because if you have an accident the crumple zone is... the place were you are sitting... not a nice thought!

It's an improvement in my book. No drawbacks other than it's not an original frame piece.

Just don't go to occarpets.com they throw you a 2 seater carpet eventhough you ordered a 2+2.... a er se holes.. And i assumed they had send... all the way to europe ... a good set.. and after half or a hole year i was to late to return it and they did'nt do anything (So i learned to: ALWAYS CHECK THE PARTS WHEN THEY COM IN!) I asked for a 2+2 280zx set and got a 2 seater carpet.. nice! but way to small.

It isn't phiLLips.. It's a JIS.. see: That Phillips-head screw isn't what you think it is - Hagerty Media It took me also a lot of years to GET that! These days i have the apropriate screwdrivers in house and it's just a better fit! (I thought i just say this , because we are nitpicking anyways here.. haha 🙊) NICE article from Hagerty, well explained. 👍

Eh.. i never seen a cover for those wires.. i tink? yes on the later 280 but not a 240z? i got an early 71 240z and does not have the cover.. I don't have any idea where to screw it to? If anyone has a cover, i like to see pics.. never seen one....i think?? 🙊

I'm creating a matrix/spreadsheet that I'll use to rebuild the 70 240z. I'd like to outline everything that can be done that I'd be able to use to get bids for portions I don't want to do, and track the things I want to do. I can see it being use for a full rebuild being done by myself, or getting bids from others. Any ideas?

The pedal boxes changed with the brake booster. So I believe the '70-'72 are all the same - the '73 is different, and then the '74-'76 are all the same. The pedal boxes had to change because of the spacing required for different brake boosters. The early clutch pedals are very different than the 260-280. You'll know if it's correct if the clutch pedal arm is thinner than the brake and curved along it's vertical axis. If you're doing an automatic to manual conversion, don't change out the entire pedal box unless you have everything striped down to the bone. Just replace the pedals and associated hardware (springs, bushings, and etc.). The boxes were made to be interchangeable and accept the auto brake pedal or the clutch and brake for the manual transmission madels. $350 sounds a little steep to me also, but if it's been meticulously restored with new hardware, and foot pads, maybe. The state of the other hardware might be just as important as the pedals. There are a few "wear items" that you would want to be in good condition. I have a few pedal boxes, maybe I should put them up for extra cash - naw, then I'd have someone come in wanting a swap...