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Hi Keith, I think it is because of lack of courtesy not of the plastic. It is bothering but every time I open the storage covers , I unscrewed the knob completely out not to pinch the edge of the cover . I put a washer under the screw , I don’t know this helps something anyway. Kats

Read this: https://www.frostburg.edu/personal/latta/ee/twinplex/schematic/twinplexschematic.html Also here: https://maker.pro/forums/threads/car-radio-antenna-has-an-inline-85mfd-capacitor-why.102193/

I, too, have a pair of NOS storage covers on my Z. As Kats said, I take the hold-down knob off completely, and use a fairly thick and large black rubber washer for a bigger footprint and flexibility for soft, even pressure.

You are dealing with 50+ year old plastic here that will have gotten more brittle over the years. Consider bonding a thin reinforcement on the underside - one solid strip with a notch to match the factory shape. That plus @kats recommendation for a thin rubber washer under the knob should help hold back breakage.

My thoughts? I spent a bunch more time trying to get the 72 floats to work without adding weight and I failed. Nothing I tried could get them to work, so I added weight. Again. Here's some pics of my latest incarnation. This time I made a threaded insert so I could change the weight in the future if necessary:

Well, the POR treatment looks amazing! Very happy with the results (and glad that job is behind me!). Tried to remove the downpipe? from the stock exhaust header today. The nuts didn't feel too rusty, but they wouldn't budge with the only (1/4" drive) ratchet I had. Picked up a larger ratchet, extension and swivel and will try again tomorrow. Soaked them good with PB Blaster and will take a torch with me tomorrow as well. While I was under the car, I noticed that the soft clutch line that connects the clutch slave and clutch hard line was cracked, so I started fiddling with it (I had a new replacement in my parts bin!). The clips were completely rusted and I could not get things turning. I finally got the compression nut to turn in the soft line but realized that the compression nut was frozen to the hard line and was twisting it. Finally got the clip free, but could not get the compression nut to budge from the hard line, so it looks like I'll be ordering a new hard line. I need to put one more coat of paint on the outside of my refurbished fuel tank in the morning, then I'll try and remove the exhaust again. clutch hard line MIGHT make it here by the end of the week and the Unicoils I needed for the 180 degree bend vent hose from the tank will be here Thursday, so I may get her back on the road by next weekend. Fingers crossed.

With the end link nuts being stubborn, I had a couple of more opportunities to use the induction heater. On the first top nut, I got the end link hot enough that the bushing caught on fire. For the other end link, I thought it would be a good opportunity to shoot a demonstration video. If you're not familiar with the induction heater bolt removers, I have a positive impression so far.

Don't overlook the EGR system. Sometimes it leaks internally. The smoke would just head down the exhaust pipe. Even if you removed it and put a plate over the holes (I assume that you did, if your engine's had it), the passage walls sometimes rot out. ckurtz2, you could be here for quite a while. If they won't even put the vacuum line on the FPR, flow-matching injectors seems quite a stretch. Good luck though.

I am installing NOS storage covers and want to minimize the possibility of them breaking at the fastening knob. Has anyone devised a method to reinforce the cover edges? Thanks, Keith

Me too. I mean, I've only done two sets, but the old used ones I took out looked good enough that I think they could be re-used if really necessary. Steve's look hammered!

They need to look like these. You say "comes up short", could you not stack enough washers under the valve to raise it?

^Hoovie's going to make a lot of money on his Bentley Arnage owned by Jean-Claude Van Damme whenever he decides to sell it...

I guess if you have a Z that some actor drove once you can make a lot of money on it. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1984-nissan-300zx-50/

Thanks for writing this all up, I'll try and answer them individually No leaks - we've smoked and sprayed it multiple times EFI temp sensor is brand new and in spec Every cylinder is firing spark and fuel (pulled spark plug wires 1 at a time then did the same with the injector power connectors Last time we checked we set it at 10 but even when it was higher as we were setting it the stumble remained The car sounds like its much more similar to your situation since its not bogging/missing it just doesnt want to rev and WILL pop loudly out of the intake if you press the accelerator all the way down and hold it at idle

Here is a link to Z when it was in really poor shape. Kind of acts like yours. It also was running incredibly lean. I had rebuilt the whole thing and was super confident it was done right with all of my "checks". Well turns out it had several sneaky vacuum leaks, and the OEM rebuilt injectors were unbalanced/undersized even though they were cleaned. However, in order to find that out I went through every single diagnosis check in the EFI bible ignoring the simple things and making my life miserable. So I encourage you to go through the entire EFI bible, but don't just skip over something because you checked it once. Just my 2 cents. I also would go through every single forum related to your issue. Soak up every detail, the more you know the easier things are. Also drives you crazy though🙃 Here is some of the process I had to go through on my EFI system. As you can tell it was a mess. Don't be lame/lazy and swap to carbs, stock EFI is a good system. Do your RPMs bobble at idle?

I don't think that anyone can really tell what you guys have installed on your engines. Ogs said he put his hand over the AFM, things changed, he installed the stock air box, things changed. "Normalized". Not sure what any of that actually means. The vacuum line reference to the FPR is a basic of ALL electronic fuel injection systems, not just early 70's Datsuns. The computer programs are designed to work with fuel pressure that varies with intake manifold pressure. You need that vacuum line. Just because the engine runs doesn't mean that it will run right. The best way to learn about early EFI is to get everything spec'ed in the way that the engineers intended. Then mess with it and see what happens. Messing with a messed up system just makes more mess. No offense. ckurtz2 wrote a whole page describing his experience with early EFI and you guys just blew right past it. Everything that he wrote is true. The fine details make the difference. There are many many stories on the web from people who just gave up and put carbs on. It's a challenge.

I went through all that, fuel pressure was like that before I changed the regulator. Haven't measured it after the new one was installed, but it did the way car runs. Also, I was playing around with the afm, once I put my hand over it to lower the air intake...issue with stumbling/hesitation disappears. I have installed the OEM air filter and car normalized almost completely...does anyone has any idea why?

So the verdict on the new gun... I like the way it paints but with the air cap I am currently using, I have a lot of over spray. I can fog the booth up in a hurry. I think I may have an HVLP air cap too. I will have to look. It does lay down clear really nice though. Big wide fan and if I'm careful; I have very minimal orange peel. Overall, I really like it, except for the amount of paint I waste in the air. My existing gun won't pattern as wide as this new one. Which makes getting even coats and avoiding striping easier

Cody and I went to EMcCallum's today. He has a vapor honing cabinet he was kind enough to let us use. It is a really interesting thing. It has beads in it but it won't remove paint or paper gaskets but my dry cabinet with beads will. Before... After... We also did the timing cover, spindle and some small thermostat parts. They all turned out really nice It's also really nice to meet another forum member in person. I always enjoy that...

So those carbs are the 72 three screw versions. They are supposed to have different needle valves in front and rear. Do you know what Ztherapy put in them?