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Charlie Osborne at ZeddFindings has been in business for many, many years. I don't think I've ever heard anyone accuse him of being 'unreliable'. That certainly wasn't my experience. Until the recent arrival of KlassicFab on the Datsun scene, he was the market's leading supplier for Z frame rail and floor replacements.

Just remembered that there is an assumption that the surface of the flywheel is the same distance from the back of the block across all engines and flywheels. It seems reasonable but maybe Fidanza's is not. I doubt that Fidanza would change that critical distance but you never know. Regardless, if the fork is hitting the back of the hole and the clutch fork is solid you need a taller sleeve.

Small bolts first. There is is a small pinch on either side of the bushing that fits perfectly between where the pieces of metal meet. As you tighten just make sure that pinch stays properly seated. I torqued the large bolls last

I pulled the numbers from Terrapin Z's measurements, from the ears to the bearing surface. Wonder why there are four. Doesn't really make sense. 32.3 37.3 42.9 46.8

There is this: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 Or you can support the club and purchase a pdf version, found in the downloads section for the very reasonable price of $15, https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/53-s30-zcar-microfiche-downloadable-cdrom/

That's Edgar Winter.

Put your car description in this Signature box and click Save and people won't have to try to remember or search for what car you're working with. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/signature/

I see now. I didn't look closely before. That's a simple measuring method, why did I make mine so complicated? If I adjust for the angle of the camera it looks like yours might be about 85 mm. So about 7 mm short. 29, 25, 24, and 16 seems to be the range of choices, so 13 mm covers the range, with 4 mm and 8 mm steps, about. Just eyeballing your picture it looks like you have a short one. I think that you need a long one.

You have to measure down to the mounting surface of the pressure plate. It's shown in that thread. You have only measured to the top of the fingers, it's not clear how tall your pressure plate is. 92 mm is a number that should work on any transmission, because the clutch fork pivot ball is at the same distance from the back of the engine on all transmissions. The mechanisms of the clutch system fit between the engine and the transmission. There are many different TOB sleeve heights because there are many different heights of pressure plate. If the fork is hitting the back of the hole and the clutch disc does not release there's nothing that you can do to make it work except get a taller sleeve.

Run that adjustment nut in the pic out to the desired length. Right now you have it backed off quite a bit.

If you just look at the dates, you'll see that the early 280Z (1975 - May 1976) has a different part number than the late 280Z (after May 1976 - 1978). How much the "Protector-Front Fend" changed I don't know. But if you check the part numbers, they are the same for the "2 seater" and "2+2" models and for the same date span.

And just get a large enough bulb size to more than fill the widest gap... Seam at the bottom.

I have one from the Vintage Rubber full car kit that I bought a few years ago - the fit seems good (hasn't been leak tested), but it's been a challenge getting it to stick to the body. Body shop cleaned it a couple of times and re-glued, but it's still pulling up from the hatch frame. A thin coating of the seal is now stuck to the body, so the next step is to clean that off and try reattaching the seal yet again. Should that fail, I'll probably have to search out an alternative.

No... always a single part covering the whole door, just under the cardboard/doorcard..

I got a number of future jobs pending, I'll have to see if the Carter P70304 from Rockauto is going to fix the problem, but I bought a fuel pressure regulator as well. I'll have to fabricate a mount for it. Sure is more affordable with Rockauto. Being retired, I only have so much to spend. And thank you both, as always, I can count on you fellows for good advice. Thank you,

OEM pump: https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-pump-assu-fuel-17011p7211?c=cT0xNzAxMS1ZODAwMA%3D%3D

Most of the auto parts stores have the right pump if you just give them the year and model. Delphi seems like a good brand name. I had an Airtex E8312 and it worked well, and lasted about 40,000 miles. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/delphi-automotive/fuel-delivery/fuel-pumps---tanks/fuel-pump/fuel-pump/83db8e3f0135/delphi-automotive-fuel-pump/dlp0/fd0035/v/a/6634/automotive-car-1975-nissan-280z?q=fuel+pump&pos=1 Looks like Rockauto will save you a lot of money on the Delphi pump. Amazon has them also. They all look about the same, a silver cylinder with some hose nipples and a piece of rubber sheet for vibration damping. You'll need to use some ingenuity to get it mounted to where you won't feel it running. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,280z,2.8l+l6,1209204,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256

Yes sir it is. The ZXs weighed a good bit more with all the added creature comforts for the female market they hadn't broken into yet, or so I've read.

KF Vintage JDM has them for the 240Z, they go up to just below the shock towers. I'm not sure how close they are to the 280Z but might be a starting point. I purchased a pair to use on my resto. They can be purchased individually.

Seems like you might be avoiding the hard truth. Flushing the passages of a cooling system that used to work fine instead of verifying that your head gaskets are in good shape. If you have a blown head gasket flushing will not help. You can get a test kit for not a lot of money. Harbor Freight, OReilly, Amazon. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/combustion-leak-detector Is your heater core connected? You don't have it bypassed? Bypassing the heater core can cause cooling problems.

My experience with car covers on open trailers is that the wind will billow the cover and cause it to rub / slap against the paint. I wouldn't recommend using a cover for that purpose.

I sanded for about 8 hours today. Most of the left side of the car is straight. The right side is not quite to the same quality just yet. I hope that 3 more coats of high build primer in the low spots will be enough to bring the surface up to where it needs to be. I feel like I am closing in on finishing the bodywork - which means I might only have another 50 hours to go! 🤣

I have heard bad things about canadian vendors. There are a couple up there and unreliable.