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Thought I would share a few pix that Mike W sent me from the Carlisle Import and Performance Nationals this week. Nissan has a special presence there this week with the new Z's release approaching & Mike and his gold cup 260z were invited as part of a special display. Looks like he joins the ranks of @jfa.series1 with special provenance for their cars ... a very good club to be in! Great shots of the old & the new.. Thanks Mike!!

Cliff, that picture is almost X-Rated. [emoji23][emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I drove manuals for decades with no neutral safety switch. I always check the car for neutral before starting with the clutch pedal down or not. You'll only try to start it in gear once, maybe twice... 😉 In other words, I wouldn't try to install one...

Enjoying watching my son Brandon bring his new purchase back to “Like New” condition. BTW......If anyone knows where we can find any wheel flares, we’re looking hard. 1987 two door. Thanks Guy

Been helping a friend with his 280z, redoing the fuel system, correcting a number issues contributing to the heat soak common problem. Waiting on a new fuel tank from S30 World, decided to quit early today and ran out of table space in my shop for beverages. Found a new use for those big crash bumpers and went All Cliff on it. A tribute to him, I know he likes those ice cold dogs... @siteunseen

That looks as good as everything else you've done Ferg! My Man @psdenno turned me on to these when I was doing my OE radio and the console in the 240. They work great too. Sharpie silver oil based from Hobby Lobby.

I forgot to post this dashboard emblem restoration I did with a “liquid chrome” pen I bought on Amazon. This dash emblem was totally black before I did this. Took all of 5 mins to complete. I should have taken a before pic. Here what it looks like now.

I think I'm headed out there tomorrow. Hope the weather holds!!

They can last a long time before they are unusable. There are threads on the forum from people who took theirs apart and found signs of destruction even though the transmission still worked properly. Strips of bearing cage/retainer, loose ball bearings in the bottom of the transmission. Still worked.

I'm ok with using old cooking oil for jet fuel or biodiesel. That seems to make sense but after we use it for food!

Langes and Heads+Scott poles. Made ski patrolling fun. Well, that and skiing free, too. Cheers, Mike

Hi , this is an old thread , but I want to activate this forum again , to understand when the windshields were made . Have we discussed it before ? Our cars have ASAHI glasses , each glass has each stamps. Here is a decoding method for our glasses. Using the method, my rear gate glass maybe made in February 1970 . Kats

That's an authentic 1969 poster for Lange Ski Boots. 69 was around the time buckle ski boots were introduced; when the snow ski industry really took off. I had a pair of Langes and metal composite skis by Head.

I've always thought it sort of foolish to take your food source and turn it into fuel, but what do I know...🤪

ALL CLIFF... id·i·om /ˈidēəm/ noun 1. a group of words established by usage as having a meaning not deducible from those of the individual words (e.g., rain cats and dogs) 1.2 derived from all idiot (e.g., drink until eyes are floating)

The good news is, even at that consumption rate you're still ahead of if you had chosen a big mac! 🤣🤣

It really depends on the damage in the bearing itself. It dosn't sound like the cage (metal frame in the bearing that holds the balls evenly speced) has collapsed. More like the bearing is worn. If you look inside a bearing it should have shiny contact surfaces. In this case they would be dull and light grey in colour. This is caused by low oil level or contaminated oil not being changed in time. The other bearing that suffers in this case is the neddle bearing between the input shaft and main shaft. Buying an aftermarket kit is going to be fun. All the miss information possible. Really..... The 71C bearing kits are easy to find. Warning nothing after 1988. The early 71C kits will fit the 280Z. True, but the front counter shaft bearing in your transmission is 56mm OD. These kits supply the 62mm OD bearing for the FS5W71C. You can find the 71C kits easily and then order a separate 63/22N C3 bearing (63/22N). The kit for the 280Z is the BK-104WS with the 56mm bearing and getting harder to find. A lot just say the 71C is a FS5W71 kit that fits all. This is a 71B kit. https://transpartswarehouse.com/bk104ws-nissan-fs5w71c-manual-transmission-rebuild-kit-1980-1984.html They say 60mm bearing in description, but it is a 56mm bearing. Idiots Even call it a 71C kit. Here is an example of the 71C kit. The kit mostly use codes like BK-133WS https://www.4ws.com/product/fs5w71-transmission-bearing-seal-kit-nissan-200sx-280z-280zx-maxima-610-620-720-810-5-speed BTW. The neddle bearing is for the input shaft - main shaft and NOT the reverse idler like some people use it. That bearing generally doesn't wear much. You could also look for the genuine Nachi bearings. See my rebuild list I made when doing my transmission. Oh and good luck. If you have any question, just shoot.

Thanks Cliff. So this site lists, but doesn’t really describe the differences in the green and blue dyed 100 octane avgas. I did find a Shell avgas site that does. So the green dyed avgas is an older formulation that has tetra ethyl lead in it, and the blue dyed avgas has a lower amount of lead in it than the green dyed fuel, hence, the “LL” designation. Sheesh, I learn something new everyday.

Thanks, my car was in need of a of work. More than I anticipated but what sold me the day I bought it was the lack of rust. It only had some minor rust on the passenger floor and otherwise it was clean. Even in the usually places it was clean. I think it spent most of its life in the CA Central Valley. This is what it looked like the day I bought it. Jan 2018 it had a seized motor and no interior or seats. It then sat 2+ years before I could bring it home. I’ve been full bore on restoration since this past Dec. I forgot to add…there is NO WAY I could have done this without the help of the great people on this forum…. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the same problem like you, and I did change ever thing from rack, to struts, to bushings, tie rods, and even springs. it turn out my drivers side floor board was week with some rot starting and since I replace the floor pan the car is perfect now!!!

Came back to add onto something else that helped reduce the vibration. Finally replaced all 4 struts with Koni Yellow Adjustable struts. WOW! What a difference that made! I honestly think the struts I had in the car might've been the original ones from the 70s! However adding new struts reduced my vibration by about another 50%. So I'd say I only have about 15-25% of the vibration left in the steering wheel from before. Now I only feel vibration when going from approx 40mph to 60 mph but it's a lot less noticeable and doesn't really bother me at all anymore.

Sorry, but I tested the fuel from my local phillips 66 and the mid grade gas I use indeed contains no ethanol. If it was magically mixing it at the pump, I think I would see a measurable amount of ethanol. The refineries produce gasoline in both ethanol and non ethanol blends, it is the decision of the retailer as to which blend they purchase for their pumps. Lucky for me, only the regular grade has ethanol. Here is my favorite guy on Youtube showing how you can test the ethanol content yourself.

A gallon of Ethanol contains ~ 75,000 btu’s and Gasoline ~126,000 btu’s. Gasoline has about an 81% production efficiently (energy expenditure to make vs how much it produces). Corn Ethanol has an 51% efficiency. It take 35,000 btu’s to make one gallon of Ethanol. These are the gov’t stats. I paid $4.99 a gal for non-ethanol 93 octane gas for the Z. They’re predicting gas to climb higher this summer.