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Making progress on the interior. I decided to go a different direction due to the challenges of a custom interior. I don’t have the proper tools, experience and skill to do it right. I decided to buy an ACC molded carpet kit from Rock Auto. I’m pretty impressed with the quality. Way better than the MSA kit I was going to work with . It took time to get this new kit in but I’m very happy with the quality and fit. It’s cut pile, with a molded rubber backing and the a layer of jute matting. It comes rolled up so I set it out in the sun for a few hours to work out the kinks. The install was time consuming…three days to get it all in. The reason is you have to make all the cuts for the transmission, ash try, seat belts etc. Getting all the bolts for the seats, seat belts, rocker trim and so forth takes time. You also have to cut out the larger section where the HVAC section is. You have to trim slowly a bit at a time….fit, trim,fit, retrim for every section. You finish each day with sore hands and maybe a few finger cuts. It’s a bit messy too . The jute matting it very stout and hard to cut. The key is take it slow to get everything fit. It’s sitting pretty good, right now but a few days in the heat will help out. Take a look.!

I started a discussion earlier regarding the felt washers needed when rebuilding the wiper assemble. One of you suggested McMaster Carr industrial felt. That's what I ended up doing. They came out good. Not sure how long they will hold up but they're a lot better than the worn ones that were in there. Unfortunately, I had to buy a 10' strip of it. I ended up using about 6". It's 1-1/2" wide and 1/16" thick. If anyone needs a piece, let me know and I'll mail it to you (no charge as long as it can fit in a business size 9" envelope. Oh, BTW I soaked mine in oil before installing them.

Got the car registered today, big milestone….last time it was registered was 24 years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Beautiful work!

I looked back through my contacts and I always put "240Z" anytime I save their info. Nothing came up but I remember he owned a pain clinic and was ex-millitary so it was a Veteran's Administration affiliated clinic. He bought it then your city flooded and we did the swap about a month later. I asked him to join classiczcars.com but don't know if he's here or not? He always called me before the Alabama vs LSU games but that stopped a couple of years ago. I'm sorry I can't direct you to him, super nice fellow. We met in Tuscaloosa, halfway, we switched the U-haul trailer over to his truck without ever cranking the car. Must be my honest charm?

The purple filter cover is a nice touch.

I need to find one like that on the east coast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Obviously, anyone who’s ever done the GM alternator modification is in witness protection now and not allowed to speak publicly about it. 8I

I think Banzai sells NOS kits.

really dont recall, smallish vendor datsun specialist. sells the whole shabang, including the hard to find long skinny one. If I run across it I will post up. it was a few years ago. pretty reasonable too IIRC. oh and they were NOT stainless either.

Sorry, I was looking thru Datsun classifieds on facebook a little earlyer today ago, and still had the page open, so I used as that Z as an example I think it sold 3 days ago..

Shhhh…keep talkin like that they won’t stop coming down here. Housing prices are crazy already and rude drivers aren’t welcome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congrats Jim! A beautiful early Z.

But Cliff is a Southern Boy. Alabama I believe. That Z on BAT is a Yankee car.

Here's one place to start searching: https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/nissan-infiniti-datsun-4/ You might reach out to ZCarSource, too. Holy crap, I think this may have what you need: https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-fs5w71a-fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h/

Here's my solution for replacing a PS30 Stock CDI with a Pertronix HP box, using the stock harness hookups. It fit neatly on the existing bracket, with the aid of a pair of "hold-down" fender washers. To get the Tach to work, I used an MSD Tach Adapter, as I could not get the Tach to respond to any alternate configurations using just the Pertronix setup alone. The Tach loses accuracy as the RPMs increase, with a 700 RPM difference at red line (reading 6800 at 7500 RPM actual) but for now, that deficiency will have to suffice. The other change I made is to remove the in-line coil resistor from the circuit, which is a simple matter of removing the electrical tape, removing the 8" wire connecting the resistor and the coil, and storing it for later use if needed. I'll probably just mock-up two dummy wires and re-tape it to the main harness to give a stock appearance. Of note, I think one can hookup the stock distributor trigger wires as well, but a prior owner had removed a good chunk of the wiring already, so I just used modern purple/green wires, bypassing the harness hookups. edit: in thinking a little about this tonight, I may consider adding a jumper to "Ign Start" to the +12v switched input of the Pertronix, and monitor the results. The car starts fine without this feature, but it's a little awkward, as some power is disabled during cranking (by the design of the ignition switch), which causes the Tach to jump twice.

This past weekend I installed an RT mount (without the optional top mount) and a new OEM differential isolator in my 76 280Z. It is doable without completely removing the diff and rear suspension, but it's kind of fiddly. I'll try to do a full write up this evening, while it's all still fresh in my head, so I can make it easier for you. On my car, which has an R200, I removed 4 sections of the cone-shaped RT mount bumper to achieve a tight fit - essentially sandwiching the nose of the diff firmly between the isolator and the cone. When I was done, I took it for a short spin and did not notice any vibration/harmonics/noises that weren't there before, but I should probably drive it a bit more before saying that for sure. @Av8ferg, if you decide you do need to replace your isolator, I have an extra brand new OEM one I'll sell you way below the retail price. Because I'm an idiot. I ordered one years ago in anticipation of the day I would install the RT top mount, and then a couple of weeks ago when I finally decided to do the job I thought "might as well replace the isolator at the same time" and so I ordered (another) one.

I had the clunk and made my own mount, based on the RTz design. I am pretty certain that the noise comes from the diff nose rising up then dropping back down on to the crossmember. The clunk is when it hits. There is a video or two out there showing that. So, the use of a snubber on top is really just stopping the initial rise. It works, just pointing out the why. One nice thing about hanging the diff nose from the top is that you can mess around with your rear suspension without having to deal with the hanging diff nose. But, really, a new diff mount will probably get rid of the clunk. It's really hard to tell that the mount rubber is worn unless you stick a pry bar in there and lever it up, with force. It is surprising how far it will move. I made a new mount because I bought the car for something to work on, a reason to be in the garage. It was a challenge. But today I might just buy a new diff mount if it was available.