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Everything posted by Barefootdan

  1. That’s a good point. I think we’re definitely looking at fuel issue as opposed to timing (since it was running smooth before it died). I had a mini fuel filter (lawn mower style) in before the pump but took it out when I cleaned up my lines. I did notice small sediments in there. The pump is a cheap eBay special and always took about 5-10 seconds to get to full pressure. Perhaps this is just added fuel to the fire. I’ll flush the lines and tank tomorrow when I get new gas. I’ll probably disconnect the line after the fuel filter in the engine bay. I can’t imagine anything substantial
  2. Back from another fire up. I was able to finish the 20 minute break in. So I feel much more comfortable letting the car down below 2K rpm. This time, the car smoked way less, I definitely think the water temp sensor helped. Unfortunately, this time when the car got to temp, I started to bring the idle down to 800, but it was not running smooth. It sounded okay but the engine was definitely not timed correctly or not firing on all 6. I turned it off and inspected my plugs. Dark, presumably from the previous day of running very rich, but nothing seemed wet. From here, I was not able to get the c
  3. I swear I must have jinxed myself...Why would the orange connector go to the grey sensor?! Anyways...30 seconds at the ecu terminal lead me to no readings for the water temp sensor. I saw I chose the wrong connector 😅 Now we have accurate resistance for ambient temp! This is likely my issue but I'll need to wait a couple hours before I fire her up as I am waiting for a gasket to dry. While out there I saw your comment @Zed Head and popped open the TPS cover. I do get contact at idle with the right pin and giving slight throttle moves to the middle. Tested at the ecu terminal to be sure as well
  4. Thanks for that. In my previous post I was referring to the wrong sensor. Water Temperature Sensor (which you referenced) is on the bottom right of the front housing, and controls fuel amount. I was looking at the Water Temperature Switch which is timing advance/retarded related. Lastly, the Thermotime Switch drive the Cold Start Valve. Now that I am all cleared up (thank you Datsun for the naming conventions 😄)... What I have in my car, hooked up, is the Water Temperature Sensor. I do not have a Thermotime or Water Temperature Switch. I dont have a cold start valve, so scrap the termoti
  5. That seems like the logical case. Ran fine until it warmed up and then it caused issues. I’ll wait to continue the remaining break in until I get that sensor plugged in 🙂 now I know there’s two temp coolant sensors. One is for the cold start valve, the other is for the fuel mixture (or length of time the injector is open). Are we both referring to the same one, the latter? I think it is on the driver side of the thermostat housing, as opposed to the front of the housing.
  6. Pulled out the Z today to break in the motor! Started right up and brought her right above 2000 rpm. She lasted about 8 minutes before I realized I didn’t hook up my radiator fans. So I turn it off and hooked those bad boys up just temporarily. Started again and continued to break in. Temp was holding in the middle of the gauge nicely! I had a vacuum leak still so keeping the idle steady was a handful. It ultimately died as I was checking timing. It looks to be running very rich as the only way to get it back up and running was to unplug injectors to clear out the fuel. Once started
  7. You read my mind for my next question of “what happens if max advance isn’t enough” 😂
  8. That’s great thank you @siteunseen I’ll aim for the cold and warm values to start. Do I need to unplug my vacuum advance to get an accurate reading? another thought I had while rewatching the video. Any particular reason why it sounds so lopey? Not that I don’t like it, but I want to make sure all is okay! Possibly due to the vacuum leaks? I’ll check spark for each cylinder just to be safe as well. I can’t imagine my ignition timing being within spec either as is.
  9. It’s Alive!!!! so excited to hear it run again. This was only the second time starting (I didn’t even think it would start on the first crank so I didn’t record it!) a couple things to note, I need to check the oil pressure gauge is function or if I have 0 pressure. I need to rent a timing light to adjust timing. And there are a couple open vacuum ports still on the manifold for the high idle. BUT ITS RUNNING!
  10. I went with no RTV. I inspected the original gasket fairly closely and did not see any signs of RTV. Fingers crossed theres no leaks! I started by getting the engine off the stand so I can work on the rear. I was able to torque the flywheel bolts fairly easy with the use of a pry bar on the dowel and flywheel teeth. Unfortuneatly I realized that I forgot to install the back plate! 😤 Well, off with the flywheel again! I think this was actually a blessing in disguise as I noticed I didnt swap the manual transmission specific pilot bushing. I made quick work of the old one with a hammer and chise
  11. I will be getting the last of my gaskets and seals today for the transmission. I am doing the two front input shaft seals to be safe while it is out. Do I need any RTV on the gasket for the cover on this? I found little information online so far with my searching.
  12. Ah, engine build day is finally here! All these months of preparation and cleaning all come down to this. The block was hot tanked, honed, and decked. I first started with a cleaning and removing the original expansion plugs. There was a heavy amount of rust within the coolant passages and some left over crud from their cleaning. I let the water run through these until no more particles were coming out. I ran a bristle brush back through to loosen anything up and another wash. I'm sure I missed the deepest corners and crevasses but I will just plan on an early coolant flush. Al
  13. Mods, delete if not allowed. I have starting piling up parts I know I wont need in the future. Feel free to make me an offer on these. I would keep them but I dont have the room to hold them inside the garage and they will ultimately rot outside. Classified
  14. View Advert 1975 280z Part Out My 1975 280z has some extra parts I dont need. Open to offers on everything! Fan Shroud - has one crack but not missing any material 2 Air Boxes Heat Shields Headlight Covers - Micro cracks and some scratching Front and rear bumbers Rear Louvers - Some rivets will need redone Misc head block off plates Not Pictured: OEM Head bolts Brake Booster - unknown working condition. I pulled it off before the car ran OEM header OEM dished pistons and connecting rods - close ups can
  15. Time Left: 18 days and 18 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    My 1975 280z has some extra parts I dont need. Open to offers on everything! Fan Shroud - has one crack but not missing any material 2 Air Boxes Heat Shields Headlight Covers - Micro cracks and some scratching Front and rear bumbers Rear Louvers - Some rivets will need redone Misc head block off plates Not Pictured: OEM Head bolts Brake Booster - unknown working condition. I pulled it off before the car ran OEM header OEM dished pistons and connecting rods - close ups can be found on my build page OEM Fusible link holder OEM Muffler


    Peoria, Arizona - US

  16. I know, I know, I should not be working on cosmetics again! But the broken tail light surround just bugged me every time I grabbed a wrench from my tool box... The right side was in one piece, albeit chipped. The left side though, 4 pieces and missing a good chunk in places! I have never tried plastic repair and well, this probably isnt the best piece to learn on. It practically crumbles when I look at it. But I took a whack at it and I'm content with the results for now...I mean don't forget what the rest of this car looks like 😄 I started off by piecing all what I
  17. As some of you have seen, I made the splurge to get flat top pistons. One too many margs and a quick look on eBay had a full set with con rods for $150. I'll take that! They showed up yesterday and look great compared to what is coming out of this car. No pitting at all and way cleaner. I dont think they were hot tanked either since I was able to get a nice amount of crud out from the ringlands. I cleaned up with a scotch pad to get most of the carbon deposit off. Side by side of the Flat Top (Left) vs the Dished (Right). I noticed there are different markings on the con rods
  18. I was about to complain that doing a head gasket would need me to retime the engine and all that jazz. But I just realized the cam gear comes off regardless!
  19. Fair enough…it’ll be the @Captain Obvious relay, because obviously I should be using one! It’s not like it’s hard to add another relay when there’s already 5 or 6 new ones going in. I’ve been reading up on your posts for the heater core swap and added that to my list. I guarantee mine is either leaky or old. I don’t even want to test running coolant through it initially when the engine goes in. I’ll do a block off for the time being. Debating swapping the whole unit for the vintage air setup. That huge arse vacuum bottle in the engine bay haunts me everyday
  20. I'll be sure to check them out! Thanks for the tip. My question for this is, doesnt it defeat the purpose of running this high compression combo to use a thicker head gasket? If running a larger cam down the line that is... I'll take a look thanks! Better never sell that head now 😉
  21. Welcome to AZ @Jeff G 78! Hopefully we'll start to see some cooler weather. All of the rain is nice this year. I dont have A/C in mine, so it wont see the crazy summer temps...unless I go crazy and want a sauna day 😄
  22. Totally. Some of the forum posts were 2000-2002 era. I didnt see many recent posts about it. I think I'll play it safe on the timing and worry about making a fine tuned timing table in the megasquirt software when i convert. I didnt want to miss out on adding this now when the engine is out. Cam is easy down the line 🙂
  23. I searched for a bit last night on flat top pistons in combination with the N42 head on my L28, but came up with some conflicting information. Some say this will detonate due to the increased compression and design of the n42 head. You can remedy this by running a larger cam and having your dynamic compression ratio reduce this. The other side of the story is that they run this combination with excellent results. Perhaps these folks dont run their cars nearly as hard or dont notice the detonation? I will unfortunately be running a stock cam until I go aftermarket efi (leaning
  24. That’s perfect information. Thank you @Captain Obvious I’ll be sure to grab a switch rated to at least 10amp.
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